Trigger wheels

[sideshow]

Well I am only converting the type-4 at the moment, and not sure what to do for a wheel. At the moment I will hold out for the steel pulley and pickup kit, as currently I lack the parts to do more than one conversion.

[klatin]

.....And I am looking for somewhere that will sell me a bulk of VR sensor and hope to pass the discount on. The VR sensor is off of a 1996 Mazda Miata. I'm sure it is in other models also.

My neighbor and friend is VP of Engineering at Mazda USA and also heads their race efforts for the US. If you want, I'll ask him if he can get me the manufacturer and possible bulk purchase pricing.

[Piledriver]

What would the OD need to be for a pancake motor? And what would your sensor orientation be? Maybe the nexttime around I could make those also. I am also thinking of smaller wheels for power pulley sizes.

@Sideshow - so you would like the type 1 instead?

Due to work schedule, it will be this weekend before I can take a proper look at it.
I'm pretty sure the T1 wheel you have could do on the back of the T4 fan, which is cast aluminum, 3-4 screws around the OD retaining it and allowing for indexing.
(probably do a clean up cut on a lathe for a ring seating surface)

Power pulley size would probably work in the present hub mount setup, but you lose AC drive pulley capability.

[MarioVelotta]

.....And I am looking for somewhere that will sell me a bulk of VR sensor and hope to pass the discount on. The VR sensor is off of a 1996 Mazda Miata. I'm sure it is in other models also.

My neighbor and friend is VP of Engineering at Mazda USA and also heads their race efforts for the US. If you want, I'll ask him if he can get me the manufacturer and possible bulk purchase pricing.

That would be amazing!

@ Pile - When I was drawing these up I had thought about putting in slots around the perimeter. Then you would have to drill and tap the pulley. It also would have made them adjustable about 10 degrees either way for a total 20 degree sweep. But the material was getting thin and the screw heads would have protruded so I chose to take them out.

[Piledriver]

@ Pile - When I was drawing these up I had thought about putting in slots around the perimeter. Then you would have to drill and tap the pulley. It also would have made them adjustable about 10 degrees either way for a total 20 degree sweep. But the material was getting thin and the screw heads would have protruded so I chose to take them out.

On a pulley the screw heads could be an issue, but I'm reasonably sure for the T4 fan it would be NBD.

I was considering just using button head screws outside (or inside, depending on teeth orientation), for full 360 degree adjustability.

I'll know more this weekend, once the motor is finally in the car.
(I made sure the fan housing/tin etc is fully installable/removable/serviceable in the Squareback, and at a reasonable working height)

The Jimstim, 4 channel injector driver, 4 ch coil driver and MSExtra w/CHT kits should all be here this week too.

Unfortunately for me the following source is in the UK, they have a nice selection of different sizes.
http://trigger-wheels.com/store/contents/en-uk/d5.html

I personally would slightly prefer a NO missing teeth option , as grinding a tooth out is trivial.
I have a hall dist setup already modified for the cam trigger//sequential.
(It will work either way, 36-1 or just 36 teeth, IIRC the missing tooth crank wheel has a slight accuracy advantage due to the MSExtra code)

[MarioVelotta]

@ Pile - When I was drawing these up I had thought about putting in slots around the perimeter. Then you would have to drill and tap the pulley. It also would have made them adjustable about 10 degrees either way for a total 20 degree sweep. But the material was getting thin and the screw heads would have protruded so I chose to take them out.

On a pulley the screw heads could be an issue, but I'm reasonably sure for the T4 fan it would be NBD.

I was considering just using button head screws outside (or inside, depending on teeth orientation), for full 360 degree adjustability.

I'll know more this weekend, once the motor is finally in the car.
(I made sure the fan housing/tin etc is fully installable/removable/serviceable in the Squareback, and at a reasonable working height)

The Jimstim, 4 channel injector driver, 4 ch coil driver and MSExtra w/CHT kits should all be here this week too.

Unfortunately for me the following source is in the UK, they have a nice selection of different sizes.
http://trigger-wheels.com/store/contents/en-uk/d5.html

I personally would slightly prefer a NO missing teeth option , as grinding a tooth out is trivial.
I have a hall dist setup already modified for the cam trigger//sequential.
(It will work either way, 36-1 or just 36 teeth, IIRC the missing tooth crank wheel has a slight accuracy advantage due to the MSExtra code)

Nice site! I didn't know you where into MS also

[Piledriver]

A few little birds sent myself and Ray a pair of lonely 1.01 boards.

Mine was still in kit form, so I basically hacked it into a v2.2 with early injector drivers, which are actually better in some ways.
(not using them as such anyway)

Ray has a working/assembled board, a stim, a case, and a few additional bits that might help things along.

With a little luck we'll both be able to help more with MS specific questions sooner or later.

[SUbuggy]

A few little birds sent myself and Ray a pair of lonely 1.01 boards.

Mine was still in kit form, so I basically hacked it into a v2.2 with early injector drivers, which are actually better in some ways.
(not using them as such anyway)

Ray has a working/assembled board, a stim, a case, and a few additional bits that might help things along.

With a little luck we'll both be able to help more with MS specific questions sooner or later

let me get this straight..............pile working on sequential, and ray working on a modern ECU? hell freezes over

[slowtwitch]

A few little birds sent myself and Ray a pair of lonely 1.01 boards.

Mine was still in kit form, so I basically hacked it into a v2.2 with early injector drivers, which are actually better in some ways.
(not using them as such anyway)

Ray has a working/assembled board, a stim, a case, and a few additional bits that might help things along.

With a little luck we'll both be able to help more with MS specific questions sooner or later

let me get this straight..............pile working on sequential, and ray working on a modern ECU? hell freezes over

Gotta love it

[RonW]

Its a conspiracy to bring them to the dark side

[Turbinepowered]

Its a conspiracy to bring them to the dark side

We have cookies!

[OriginalCustoms]

I hope I'm not out of line here, but if you're needing a 36-1 triggering setup for a pancake cooling T4, I've got what you need here.

No disrespect to Mario.

[Piledriver]

I hope I'm not out of line here, but if you're needing a 36-1 triggering setup for a pancake cooling T4, I've got what you need here.

No disrespect to Mario.

To continue the possible hijack McMark, do you sell just the wheel?

A 5-5.5" wheel set flush with the flange should work with a long, thin Hall sensor (AKA Mk4 Golf crank sensor) dropped in from the top at ~tdc.
(It would be slightly offset, but should still work fine, and the angle could be shimmed if needed)
All it needs IIRC is a ~8mm hole and a 6mm hole for a bolt in the fan housing lip.

A relief cut in the wheel flange area so it sets back a few mm (drop wheel) would be ideal. as it would probably allow use of AC.

I have a actual spare Golf crank sensor rattling around here somewhere, a smaller wheel might work out even better, allowing an almost ~bolt together setup, with easy/safer top sensor location.

I'm probably just going to weld on a disk on a AC pulley tomorrow, make 2 wide "teeth" and try running 4/1 CAS. (With the modified dist providing the /1 for sync)

Before anyone says "but thats for distributor based yadayada" the logic works out the same.
...I think

Glen had some sort of holdup on my parts (guess---waiting for TC amps) but my toys shipped today.

[OriginalCustoms]

I sell the wheel by itself, but if you're going to use a Hall sensor, you need magnets. Mine doesn't have magnets.

[Piledriver]

Many hall sensors have integrated magnets, the passing tooth varies the mag field, triggering the sensor.
IIRC, the Golf crank sensor is like that, as I can't imagine VW installing a bunch of tiny magnets in the wheel.