Adjusting my Valves
- Leatherneck
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- scott the viking
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Yes that's fine..the way I explained it..is NOT the way I do it...I just thought it would be easier to understand if he did not have to worry about TDC and which cylinder is which. Not that I am saying he would find any of that difficult...sometimes things make the most sense when put in the simplest terms.subybaja wrote:...and since we're on the subject of cheating...
Going with your theory of anywhere on the base circle, Scott, how about this:
Set to TDC. One side will have one valve depressed and 3 free, the other side will have 3 depressed and 1 free. Adjust all 4 free ones. Turn engine over. Depressed/free will be reversed. Set other 4. Done.
Sound OK?
- Leatherneck
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- MNAirHead
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I'll be bold..
If you own an aircooled and will not adjust your valves... you'll damage your engine...
DO NOT let a shop do it.. they normally do it wrong (truth)... most shops do not pay the same attention you'll do.
The BugMeVideo #1 is maintenance.. will walk you step by step through the process and cost less than an hour of any shop's time.
T.
If you own an aircooled and will not adjust your valves... you'll damage your engine...
DO NOT let a shop do it.. they normally do it wrong (truth)... most shops do not pay the same attention you'll do.
The BugMeVideo #1 is maintenance.. will walk you step by step through the process and cost less than an hour of any shop's time.
T.
- scott the viking
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Well...to tell the truth...I don't really have a set "method". Normally when I am adjust my valves...I am doing something else at the same time...So the way I do it probably changes every time I do it...here is what I normally do. I peel off both valve covers (that's important)
I hook up my remote starter switch, I have my feeler gauge blade in one hand...I bump the starter with my switch until the majority of the rocker on the side I am on are on the base circle and then I run my blade under them. If it fits snug..like I can feel drag...I don't adjust, if it goes in and has room to spare, I adjust. So...I guess what I do is just bump the engine and adjust as each is on the base circle of the cam. This is probably not the way a guy who has never adjust valves should do it, just works fast for me. By the way...I can normally get quite a bit of running before the need adjusting...might be the rollers...might be the Amsoil.
- turboblue
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How about saying don't let most non VW shops adjust your valves.MNAirHead wrote:I'll be bold..
If you own an aircooled and will not adjust your valves... you'll damage your engine...
DO NOT let a shop do it.. they normally do it wrong (truth)... most shops do not pay the same attention you'll do.
The BugMeVideo #1 is maintenance.. will walk you step by step through the process and cost less than an hour of any shop's time.
T.
We adjust valves on a fair amount of VW engines and I think we have it down..........
- david58
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The name of this post should have been Adjusting Valves by the Book
I do agree with doing it this way I never follow directions. I never I mean never go somewhere and return the same way.
I do agree with doing it this way I never follow directions. I never I mean never go somewhere and return the same way.
Hot, humid air is less dense than cooler, drier air. This can allow a golf ball to fly through the air with greater ease, as there won't be as much resistance on the ball.
- MNAirHead
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- turboblue
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- MNAirHead
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maybe I could explain for a second... West Coast shops commonly just blow through these in volume...turboblue wrote:No harm, no foul Tim.
Just needed a little clarification.........
Places east of Arizona many times teach newbies to do tune ups.. chances are a valve setting may be the most important thing done to a bug.
Valves are one of the most important topic that most folks don't pay enough attention to.
THANKS for catching this ... unfortunately I replied 1/2 way from reading 1/2 the post.
Tim
- david58
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fortyeye wrote:You might want to take a look here: http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic ... t=pushrods
Lash for AL pushrods and CM pushrods isn't the same due to expansion rate differences.
Hot, humid air is less dense than cooler, drier air. This can allow a golf ball to fly through the air with greater ease, as there won't be as much resistance on the ball.
