Split Window dilema

dstar · Post by **dstar** » Wed Nov 19, 2008 10:55 pm

Hi folks,

I just bought a set of rear rubbers for a split window and the
seals are WAY too BIG!

Does anyone know if the Split Bug had rear windows in two sizes?

DOn

MNAirHead · Post by **MNAirHead** » Thu Nov 20, 2008 8:59 am

I believe that all of splits were the same size.

I ran into this issue on a 52 split.. I know you've heard this tons and tons of times..

I fought tons with the window rubber.. they're a bit tougher to put in since they're smaller with less tolerance.

The lower cost options were tried.. After several attempts (just about everything.. heating the rubber.. chilling the glass.. grease etc.)

Eventually ended up ordering some German rubber from europe.. it was just a few weeks fresh - they popped in fairly quick.

Unfortunately rubber distorts in storage..

What exact rubber were you using.. is this SEKURIT glass?

dstar · Post by **dstar** » Mon Dec 01, 2008 10:11 pm

Yes it is German specs and Sekurit glass.

The rubber is WAY too big! I don't have to stretch the rubber to get it on, looks like I need to stretch the GLASS to make it fit the RUBBER!

Since this goes in a 40 Ford coupe kit, I have no idea what original
split cutouts are sized at, all I have is the hole in the top that these
came out of.

When I went to take the glass out, I found that a LOT of black RTV was used to hold the rubber and glass in place.

Do you have a length and width measurement of an original glass?
This doesn't look like the glass has been cut, since the logos look
correctly spaced from the edge.

Don

MNAirHead · Post by **MNAirHead** » Tue Dec 02, 2008 11:37 am

To best help..

Please clarify.. is this going in a split or some type of kit car?

dstar · Post by **dstar** » Thu Dec 04, 2008 12:37 am

I am putting it in a bug, that had the top cut off and a 40 Ford Coupe kit
glassed to it. It is a Ostermann, "factory" produced car that has a Hebmueller
looking rear end.

Since it is fiberglass and NOT an original Split rear window
section, I have no clue if the sizing is correct, hence my need to find
out the correct size for the glass pieces

The issue is with the glass being too small to *fill up* the rubber seal.

Don

MNAirHead · Post by **MNAirHead** » Tue Dec 09, 2008 4:42 am

D

I've never installed one of these.

There was kind of a "trick" years back to make exact fit parts.. others required on site fitting.

One of the steps may be to find original install and sales literature.

There are some good pages in archives about measuring and templating for custom glass and rubber.

dstar · Post by **dstar** » Thu Dec 11, 2008 12:40 am

I cut a piece of 5/16 vacumn tubing and made and extra *gasket*
around the glass that fits in the rubber channel nicely. Vulcanized
with rubber cement and since it is inside the window rubber, the
joint isn't seen.

Fits TIGHT now and doesn't leak.....

Don

MNAirHead · Post by **MNAirHead** » Thu Dec 11, 2008 8:44 am

Vaccuum tubing meaning for for a car (I'm guessing) not a vaccuum cleaner.

Nice idea.

T.

dstar · Post by **dstar** » Fri Dec 12, 2008 1:25 am

BUWAHAHAHAHAHAH, yes, mean't for a car.....

Don

MNAirHead · Post by **MNAirHead** » Fri Dec 12, 2008 7:35 am

Don.

Thanks for the clarification.. would hate someone lurking to make an experiment.

Tim

dstar5000 · Post by **dstar5000** » Tue Sep 01, 2009 1:34 am

After following along and having the same probs as CRVC, I dumped
the recommendations from the paint manufacturer and the shop that
sold me the paint(they said .8 bar or about 8-9PSI) and took Doc's
advice and turned it up to 35PSI.

It looks like it is atomizing properly and I finally got it to shoot flat!

Here's some preliminary pics, not done painting yet. I'm just double
spraying the areas I won't be able to color-sand and buff properly.
Gotta stay away from those ridges and edges!

I worked for 3 yrs at a body shop and am very good at welding/shrinking
and stretching metal(my boss didn't use filler, we used solder) and I
learned quickly that I can't be trusted with a paint gun.

It is a 2006 Mustang Laser Red metallic with pearl color, in Sikkens
products(the BEST!):

Frame was completely disassembled and blasted, primered/painted.
New detailed Rancho Freeway Flyer tranny, new pans welded in, all
new suspension/CB drop spindles, Dannert Beam, and new brake and gas
lines and all rubber replaced:

That's all the pics I have, I'm not much at taking pics and usually don't,
but my fiance' wanted me to take some for our VW photo albums.

Don

crvc · Post by **crvc** » Sun Sep 06, 2009 9:10 am

I think my problem was trying to paint using two 6-gallon compressors. They worked fine for applying ZeroRust to the pan and body undersides. But I turned both regulators up all the way. When one compressor flagged, I switched the hose to the other compressor, back and forth, back and forth. It was a slow process but it did work.

I assumed the compressors would work for painting since the website says to use psi around 11. It did work, but only on the small pieces: the rear license plate visor and both tail/brakelight pedestals. For everything else I got orange peel.

The compressors were designed for nail guns. I used them successfully to build the 30X50 two-story barn in the photo. It only took a year and this VW has taken two years.

dstar5000 · Post by **dstar5000** » Tue Sep 08, 2009 11:20 pm

I used 2 5 gal compressors, one jumpered to the other, then took the output and regulated it to about 2.5 bar or 35 psi.

I never ran out of air, I was just moving the gun too fast and it was not
*wetting* the panels, so it turned out feeling like sandpaper.

I watch too much Overhauling and tried to move the gun as quickly as
they did. Their compressors are way better than we can afford.....

Don