Shhhhh! I can't hear a sound! - My Soundproofing Experience

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david58
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Shhhhh! I can't hear a sound! - My Soundproofing Experience

Post by david58 »

BUSBOSS wrote:I wanted to share with you my soundproofing experience.

After researching many different products, I decided to go with a butyl based soundproofing material. Given that my family would be sleeping in the bus, I didn't want any asphalt based products that would off gas, smell and possibly melt/fail in the heat.

The product I chose is called BXTII and is made by RAAMaudio. I contacted the owner, Rick McCallum, and we discussed the product and my options. Rick is a great guy and I was impressed with his commitment to his product and his interest in the needs of his customers.

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After a POR15 treatment for most areas and a Simple Green / Acetone treatment for others, I was ready to begin. I ordered 3 packs of BXTII, 7 yards of Ensolite MLC closed Cell foam, and 3 cans of V&S spray adhesive.

The package from Rick arrived just as promised and weighed 66 lbs. It arrived like this:

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I have to admit that before I began the installation, I was a little concerned about what I had undertaken. I quickly realized that the BXTII was extremely easy to work with.

Installation on the floors and and most panels was very straight forward. I didn't have to use a wooden roller that some other products require. I simply used my hands.

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Installation on the front door panels was a little bit more involved. I followed the directions on the RAAM website and the tips that Rick had given me.

RAAM recommends eliminating the vapor barrier. Given the water friendly design of VW bus doors and most cars of that vintage, I followed the RAAM recommendation in part and got a little creative. I first removed the original vapor barriers that were in pretty poor shape. I then applied the BXTII to the interior of the doors. That was followed by the installation of a new 4mil plastic interior vapor barrier. I secured the vapor barrier on the inside of the door with clear waterproof Liquid Nails.

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I then covered the large holes in the door panel with aluminum flashing and secured them with self tapping screws. I covered the old speaker location and will be installing the speakers in the kick panels away from the water risk of the door.

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I then applied BXTII over the newly installed aluminum panels. I also covered any of the other holes and spaces that did not involved the panel mounts or window/door operation to try and insure a "waterproof" fit. You will notice that I did not cover the entire surface of the panel side of the door as RAAM recommends. I was running low on BXTII at this point so I used it efficiently.

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I then applied the Ensolite foam for the finishing touch.

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My bus used to sound like an empty Coke can. It is now very very different. There are no tin echoes and the doors close with a solid thud.

I highly recommend RAAMaudio products.

If you contact Rick, please tell him that Mike sent you and mention this site.

Oh and by the way, he is currently having a sale on the BXTII product. Regular price $129. Sale Price $99. :lol:

Here is a link to his webpage:
http://www.raamaudio.com/index.php?opti ... &Itemid=59

Good luck and shhhhh!


Thanks for the feedback! :D

I added Reflectix all around for thermal insulation.

I did not sound proof the cockpit roof - I ran out of the BXTII material. I did remove the original insulation from the headliner area and replace it with a few layers of Refllectix. I may also line the roof side of the headliner panel with the Ensolite foam because I have lots of that left.

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A concern is that when entry into the door is necessary (replace glass, repair body damage, etc.) it will be a real pain with the extra metal in the way. But, hopefully, those times will be far and few :) I also see that you covered your fresh air vent in the lower rear corner of the door, thus you won't get any air into the cabin :? So the slider won't be necessary in your door panels. Should you decide to make them functional again I strongly recommend you follow the stock vapor barrier set up because it will help keep water from getting in.

I'm curious as to why the recommendation of NOT keeping the vapor barrier. That is a huge no-no on any car! You were correct in keeping it, though easier door access would have the vapor barrier on the cabin side of the door (stock location) and not inside it.

What is the purpose of the Ensolite foam?
What was the criteria you gave for the recommendations you got? Was is just for sound-dampening or was thermal insulation a requirement as well?

You did a nice, thoughtful job. Prep-work and installation, you did a good job and it looks like your efforts will last a long time. Nice Work!! =D>
BUSBOSS wrote:
GusC2it wrote:The rolled roofing is made from rubberized "Butyl" in a polypropylene mesh. Butyl is made from the higher "cracking" of crude oil. It is a synthetic rubber, like Neoprene only softer. The roofing is classed as non-hazardous. It comes with soft Aluminum coating or not. Im just trying to save you guys some money. It's the same stuff. Go sniff some at Lowes. Here's one manufacturer.
http://www.roofer911.com/roofs-peel-seal.htm
Gus-
I clicked on the link you provided and here is what the product information said: "The sheet features multiple laminations of specialized aluminum foil, high density polymer films and a thick layer of rubberized asphalt waterproofing compound. . . Rubberized asphalt will not crack or dry, which is one advantage to Peel & Seal."


I could be wrong but I think that means it contains asphalt.

Rubberized asphalt may contain butyl (that's what makes it rubberized) but it also contains asphalt. A quick and easy way to test is to soak a small sample in a glass containing acetone. If the liquid turns black then you've got asphalt in there. I have yet to see a "Peal & Seal" product without asphalt at my local hardware outlets.

FYI
You also want to be cognizant of the thickness of the product so that it maximizes the sound dampening properties. Many roofing products, in addition to containing asphalt, are thinner.

Why should you choose butyl rubber over asphalt?
Butyl rubber is more reliable than asphalt.
Butyl is pliable at low temperatures and can be applied to a variety of building materials at temperatures 30°F to 180°F. Asphalt becomes brittle below 40°F, reducing the ability to stick to surfaces.
Butyl has high cohesive strength and structural integrity that support the adhesive at elevated temperatures as high as 200°F. Asphalt has a narrow temperature range and often will ooze at elevated temperatures.
Butyl rubber adhesive contains no asphalts, VOCs (volatile organic compounds) or solvents. Asphalts can react with the solvents in caulk and sealant compounds, causing degradation of both products, which compromises the seal integrity reducing water resistance.

My bottom line: Whatever product you decide to use, please just make sure you avoid asphalt ingredients. I have gained a lot of knowledge from others on Samba and I was just sharing my positive experience with one of many available products in hopes that someone might find it useful.
Hot, humid air is less dense than cooler, drier air. This can allow a golf ball to fly through the air with greater ease, as there won't be as much resistance on the ball.