Pro Mo's adventure in rust and ruin. (A build thread)

bajaherbie · Post by **bajaherbie** » Wed Jul 01, 2009 7:42 pm

i have cb 044's on my 1915...... 37 and 42mm valves

Turbo_Manx_Maniac · Post by **Turbo_Manx_Maniac** » Wed Jul 01, 2009 8:02 pm

That facet pump is perfect, just remember they suck at trying to pull fuel, they should only push it so they should be mounted below the tank level.

I think you made a good choice with the crank rod combo, if your not comfortable then your not comfortable. I just bought a DPR crank too but I'm using Scat rods. You crank will probably measure out near perfect everywhere, mine is mocked up in the case and spins sooooo smooth.

For heads you can't go wrong with CB, I have a heavily ported set on my car now and they've been flawless. However, with your budget I'd actually recommend a set of TIM's stage 1's ($590). I have a set of stage 2 turbo heads on order there now, they are made from 043 G03 Mexican casting that supposedly cool a bit better than an 044, and some believe that Tim's heads offer a little better all around drivability. They are cheaper than 044's and are hand ported rather than CNC ported. Do a search on TOS for Steve Tim's heads. A close friend has been racing with Steve Tim's since the 70's and has used both CB and Tim's. I'm not knocking CB's stuff, you can't go wrong there either.

Without a doubt I'd use a Web 218 for your combo. Little more snap than an Engle 110. If your good with premium 91, I'd go 9:1 static compression.

Do you have a new case ot a good used one?

If you need calipers or bore gauges to check things let me know. I work pretty close to where you used to live and could drop them off or help you if you want.

Projectile Motion · Post by **Projectile Motion** » Wed Jul 01, 2009 9:02 pm

I actually put the cell in the car so that there would be a perfect place for a pump down hill so gravity could do most of the "pull" work.

Funny, I was looking at the Web 218 and static at around 9:1 too. Seems like the numbers make sense for what I want for power.

No case yet, that is going to be the next purchase. Probably the most expensive single part so I'd like to get it out of the way. As of right now I was thinking of having it cut for the 94s, full flowed and sand seal. What about shuffle pin, worth the price?

Turbo_Manx_Maniac · Post by **Turbo_Manx_Maniac** » Wed Jul 01, 2009 9:13 pm

Wouldn't bother with shuffle pins, as long as you get eveything balanced as an assembly including pulley and pressure plate you'll be good.

DRD, Brothers, etc all sell a case setup to drop parts in, that's probably your best bet. Make sure you get the galleys tapped so you can clean it good. I'm amazed at the crud in my aluminum case.

Post by **Hedrock** » Wed Jul 01, 2009 9:23 pm

I have had real good service from Brothers and the prices are good as well.

Just my .02

Projectile Motion · Post by **Projectile Motion** » Fri Jul 10, 2009 5:09 pm

Well engine assembly is still a few weeks away but in the meantime I was going to get the car ready for the engine. I got one of those facet pumps, fittings, filters, line ect. to start this weekend. I also want to get the wires run to the pump. My question is should I run the pump on the ignition switch (toggle with button start) or a separate one? I kind of like the idea of the pump having its own switch. If I do put it on its own should I use a relay?

bugman742002 · Post by **bugman742002** » Fri Jul 10, 2009 11:00 pm

yes run a relay for anything electrical on a switch if you run it through the switch you could over heat the switch and cause it to burn up.

rickosuave1987 · Post by **rickosuave1987** » Fri Jul 10, 2009 11:01 pm

I would run the pump on a separate switch that is powered off of the ignition. That way it will shut off no matter what when the key is off, but it can also be shut off if the key is on but the motor isnt running (like say...in a roll over?)

rickosuave1987 · Post by **rickosuave1987** » Fri Jul 10, 2009 11:01 pm

bugman742002 wrote:yes run a relay for anything electrical on a switch if you run it through the switch you could over heat the switch and cause it to burn up.

If you buy quality switches, and fuse all the circuits you will be fine

DesertGuy · Post by **DesertGuy** » Sat Jul 11, 2009 8:30 am

Projectile Motion wrote:My question is should I run the pump on the ignition switch (toggle with button start) or a separate one?

ProMo, I have been looking into options about this recently. Since I am sticking with an EFI water pumper, fuel pump monitoring will be done through the ECM. That being said from what I found, you need some sort of circuit control that does not require manual input. That way if you are in a rollover and unable to get to a switch, the circuit will "control" itself and shut down the pump. I have heard a few different variations (I think I am favoring the Tachometric relay) and some are as follows:

Circuit Opening Relay (COR)
Dual Relay Configuration
Tachometric Relay
Pressure Switch
Vacuum Switch

takotruckin · Post by **takotruckin** » Sat Jul 11, 2009 8:46 am

DG, won't your ecu shut the pump off if there is no rpm signal?

Projectile Motion · Post by **Projectile Motion** » Sat Jul 11, 2009 9:14 am

I have seen the oil pressure cut off option. Probably the route I will go. It seems like that is tried and trued. I have not heard of the tach relay, I assume that means that if there are no RPMs the pump won't pump? I wonder if it would make for hard starting though (how does fuel get to the carbs if the engine is not running)? After posting earlier I have been reading more fuel pump info than I ever wanted to. I definitely want to go with some sort of auto-cutoff as turing off a switch might not be possible after a bad accident. My car electric experience consists of a few stereos, amps and offroad lights so I must say thanks to everyone for all the help!

bugman742002 · Post by **bugman742002** » Sat Jul 11, 2009 10:27 am

you could also use the same set up ford has on most of their cars. it's a switch that disconects the fuel pump in the event of an accident. or if you hit a really hard bump as well.

DesertGuy · Post by **DesertGuy** » Sat Jul 11, 2009 10:49 am

Tako... yes, mine will be controlled through the ECU. From what I am finding out, that initial "hum" of the fuel pump on ECU controlled cars is, in essence, a form of a Tachometric Relay. It sends the initial signal "looking" to see if the engine is running, if it is not, then the ECU shuts down the pump signal (Still learning mo' stuff though).

On cars that are not ECU controlled, a separate device is needed... so far the Tachmetric relay looks like an inexpensive and simple way to do it. The tachometric relays have their prominence in countries that run LPG autos.

I WOULD NOT run a fuel pumps power through ANY circuit that cannot be automatically shut off, if needed... as ProMo mentioned, relying on someone flipping a switch is not a good plan, IMHO.

takotruckin · Post by **takotruckin** » Sat Jul 11, 2009 7:37 pm

DesertGuy wrote: From what I am finding out, that initial "hum" of the fuel pump on ECU controlled cars is, in essence, a form of a Tachometric Relay. It sends the initial signal "looking" to see if the engine is running, if it is not, then the ECU shuts down the pump signal (Still learning mo' stuff though).

You would be right.

DesertGuy wrote: On cars that are not ECU controlled, a separate device is needed... so far the Tachmetric relay looks like an inexpensive and simple way to do it. The tachometric relays have their prominence in countries that run LPG autos.

How cheap/reliable is a tachometric relay compared to an oil pressure switch?