My BAJA is getting a Little work done to HimUpdate 14.08.09
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Leatherneck
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Urabus
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Just a little up date
Over the weekend we finished the mounts for the gearbox and the 2 straps for holding it in place.We moved the clutch and throttle tubes so they cleared the gearbox.The worst job of the weekend was cleaning the tunnel and the frame head.
We pulled the old beam off the pan and strip the beam we are using apart and cleaned it ready so we can put it together when the new ball joints arrive.
Here are some pics for the straps in place without the box and the new beam waiting to go together.
Marc
Over the weekend we finished the mounts for the gearbox and the 2 straps for holding it in place.We moved the clutch and throttle tubes so they cleared the gearbox.The worst job of the weekend was cleaning the tunnel and the frame head.
We pulled the old beam off the pan and strip the beam we are using apart and cleaned it ready so we can put it together when the new ball joints arrive.
Here are some pics for the straps in place without the box and the new beam waiting to go together.
Marc
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Urabus
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Howdy
Sorry it has been so long for an update
so here it is, the pan is a roller, the front beam has long travel ball joints , 2 adjusters, new wheel bearings.
The rear has been converted to IRS and new bearing and the mounts for the 1600 Kombi box are all done hopefully the box will be in next weekend.
Marc
Sorry it has been so long for an update
so here it is, the pan is a roller, the front beam has long travel ball joints , 2 adjusters, new wheel bearings.
The rear has been converted to IRS and new bearing and the mounts for the 1600 Kombi box are all done hopefully the box will be in next weekend.
Marc
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Ol'fogasaurus
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Something to consider. If you use a drop connector to the shirt rod in the tunnel and the nose cone of the bus transaxle is still above the tunnel, you are going to add some monkey motion to the action of the shift rod. Remember that the shift rod bushing, in the tunnel, is solid (and a pivot point) and the shift rod in the transaxle is solid. This means that th shift rod is going to have to follow the arc of the dropped connector and want to pivot at the bushing. You are going to put a bit more of side loading to the bushing than it is designed for. While the dropped connector will work, I would suspect that the bushing in the tunnel won't last long.
The two most common options are; put my shift rod on top of the tunnel or use one of the 10 degree, nose down transaxle mount. The latter option puts the nose cone inside the tunnel.
Your work looks very good and very clean looking.
The two most common options are; put my shift rod on top of the tunnel or use one of the 10 degree, nose down transaxle mount. The latter option puts the nose cone inside the tunnel.
Your work looks very good and very clean looking.
Lee
My opinion is worth slightly less than what you paid for it.
My opinion is worth slightly less than what you paid for it.
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Leatherneck
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Urabus
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Thanks guys.
I will look it what you have said about the shift rod.
The last time we had the body of and this time there is 2.5 inches higher this time round.
As it sits now the rear is 16.5 clearance and the front has 15.5 , when it is all back together I will check it again and we will see.
We will be doing the 2in body lift next, then we will rebuild the master cyd and wheel cyd and front calipers . I pick up the braided brake lines after Xmas.
I am still looking at what type of coil over shockies to use front and back .
do you guys have any ideas?.
here a few pics that are a bit clearer .
thanks again
marc
I will look it what you have said about the shift rod.
The last time we had the body of and this time there is 2.5 inches higher this time round.
As it sits now the rear is 16.5 clearance and the front has 15.5 , when it is all back together I will check it again and we will see.
We will be doing the 2in body lift next, then we will rebuild the master cyd and wheel cyd and front calipers . I pick up the braided brake lines after Xmas.
I am still looking at what type of coil over shockies to use front and back .
do you guys have any ideas?.
here a few pics that are a bit clearer .
thanks again
marc
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Urabus
- Posts: 214
- Joined: Mon Sep 04, 2006 10:58 pm
Hi peoples
It has been a while so this is what I have been up to.
We have finished the front beam just needs painting the lift kit is in place again needs to be painted, this weekend we put the body on the pan so that we could make new mounting points for the front bar and mount it.
Next weekend the rear cage will be sorted out.
we also sorted out were we are putting the crap handles in the back so people have places to hold on.
Hoping to do all the painting in the last week of Feb if the weather is good.
here are a few photo's.
marc
It has been a while so this is what I have been up to.
We have finished the front beam just needs painting the lift kit is in place again needs to be painted, this weekend we put the body on the pan so that we could make new mounting points for the front bar and mount it.
Next weekend the rear cage will be sorted out.
we also sorted out were we are putting the crap handles in the back so people have places to hold on.
Hoping to do all the painting in the last week of Feb if the weather is good.
here are a few photo's.
marc
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Leatherneck
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Leatherneck
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Urabus
- Posts: 214
- Joined: Mon Sep 04, 2006 10:58 pm
Update of rebuild
We painted the body this week here are some photo's.
Marc
Marc