Well today I just picked it up for 750$ And pulled it home with a tractor.
Its a '69 with a 1600 single port not running at the moment. 3 speed manual
Hey now I have a Vw
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bkaab
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Hey now I have a Vw
For the past week I have been asking questions about the Maxi Taxi.
Well today I just picked it up for 750$ And pulled it home with a tractor.
Its a '69 with a 1600 single port not running at the moment. 3 speed manual
Well today I just picked it up for 750$ And pulled it home with a tractor.
Its a '69 with a 1600 single port not running at the moment. 3 speed manual
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david58
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Ol'fogasaurus
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Marc
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Makes you wonder which gear's missing, huh?
bkaab, a manual that'd be good to look for is John Muir's "How to Keep Your Volkswagen Alive"
Check out local used book stores, for your purposes the earlier the edition the better (the later printings suffer from information overload as they try to cover too many different types of car in one book).
bkaab, a manual that'd be good to look for is John Muir's "How to Keep Your Volkswagen Alive"
Check out local used book stores, for your purposes the earlier the edition the better (the later printings suffer from information overload as they try to cover too many different types of car in one book).
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bkaab
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I don't know about the 3 speed. Thats what the guy I bought it off said it had. It goes 1 2 3 R in the H pattern. I plan on buying a book or something about Vw's. I have some plans for the engine to get some more power out of it.
I want to get it repaint some day. I am going to paint the rims black and keep the old Chevy hub caps on it.
I want to get it repaint some day. I am going to paint the rims black and keep the old Chevy hub caps on it.
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namelesswonder
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That is a pretty rockin' car. I would love to see the progress on it as you go!
Franz the Thunder Pumpkin!
Permanent member of the "Baja may not be running" club
Permanent member of the "Baja may not be running" club
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Marc
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http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?p=873274
You're right, a 1600 (1585cc) wasn't offered in the the Beetle or Convertible until 1970. The `67-`69 engines had a smaller bore for a 1493cc displacement. It is common practice to fit the larger 1600 pistons and cylinders when rebuilding a 1500 since they fit with no machinework, which would make this both a `69 and a 1600
You can change the oil via that 13/16" hex drain plug, but you need to remove the sump plate and service the pickup screen to do it right (refer to my response in the other thread).
Unless it's an AutoStick (and I don't see any of the vacuum plumbing needed to support one of those) it has 4 forward gears regardless of what the shift knob or the clueless P.O. says. To get Reverse you push down on the shifter which allows it to move a little further over to the left, then back.
If that's an original H5 engine, those cases are the worst possible foundation for any kind of performance engine...in fact, many failed in stock form before they were more than a few years old, which is why VW had to improve the alloy.
If you have one that runs well, count your blessings and leave it alone (aside from normal valve adjustment/oil change/tune-up maintenance)...and do all you can to keep it from ever getting overheated, like sealing off that engine room so only cool air can get to the fan inlet. You may find the power adequate considering how light the car is.
Those "dune-buggy duals" or "dual-cannon" pipes do not enhance performance like a 4-into-one header but they are loud and obnoxious (sounds a lot like two out-of-tune Harleys) - you might consider a better system.
Add a 2-3" tube between the aircleaner and the carb.
IF the sheetmetal was installed properly on the generator it'll be simple to correct that installation. There's a slot in it that should be pointing down. Loosen the belt & strap and remove the four 10mm-head bolts, tug it out a little and locate the slot. If it's at 3:00, simply rotate the whole business 90° CW and reassemble. If it's at 9:00 much more work will be involved so you may as well slap it back in "wrong" and remember to fix it next time the motor's out for something.
If the car's been sitting for years as it appears, expect to put some time & money into the brakes before hitting the road. Start by flushing out the brake fluid; if it still has the original flex hoses they're 'way overdue for replacement, so you might want to renew them while bleeding the brakes.
bkaab wrote:I think I know where the the oil bolt is but my dad doesn't want to take any thing off unless we know for sure
The guy I bought it off said that it was a 1600 3 speed its been in there family since it was built. It was built on a Convertible VW. I don't know much about Vw's I am more into American V8's. I have done some research and from what I have read 1600's never came in a '69 VW which confused me even more. I hope to learn a lot about Vw's while doing. You got to start some where and seemed like a good place for me to start. We might pull the whole engine out but not sure if we will or not. I plan on buying some kind of book.
So what kind of engine is this and what kind of trans should it have...
You're right, a 1600 (1585cc) wasn't offered in the the Beetle or Convertible until 1970. The `67-`69 engines had a smaller bore for a 1493cc displacement. It is common practice to fit the larger 1600 pistons and cylinders when rebuilding a 1500 since they fit with no machinework, which would make this both a `69 and a 1600
You can change the oil via that 13/16" hex drain plug, but you need to remove the sump plate and service the pickup screen to do it right (refer to my response in the other thread).
Unless it's an AutoStick (and I don't see any of the vacuum plumbing needed to support one of those) it has 4 forward gears regardless of what the shift knob or the clueless P.O. says. To get Reverse you push down on the shifter which allows it to move a little further over to the left, then back.
If that's an original H5 engine, those cases are the worst possible foundation for any kind of performance engine...in fact, many failed in stock form before they were more than a few years old, which is why VW had to improve the alloy.
If you have one that runs well, count your blessings and leave it alone (aside from normal valve adjustment/oil change/tune-up maintenance)...and do all you can to keep it from ever getting overheated, like sealing off that engine room so only cool air can get to the fan inlet. You may find the power adequate considering how light the car is.
Those "dune-buggy duals" or "dual-cannon" pipes do not enhance performance like a 4-into-one header but they are loud and obnoxious (sounds a lot like two out-of-tune Harleys) - you might consider a better system.
Add a 2-3" tube between the aircleaner and the carb.
IF the sheetmetal was installed properly on the generator it'll be simple to correct that installation. There's a slot in it that should be pointing down. Loosen the belt & strap and remove the four 10mm-head bolts, tug it out a little and locate the slot. If it's at 3:00, simply rotate the whole business 90° CW and reassemble. If it's at 9:00 much more work will be involved so you may as well slap it back in "wrong" and remember to fix it next time the motor's out for something.
If the car's been sitting for years as it appears, expect to put some time & money into the brakes before hitting the road. Start by flushing out the brake fluid; if it still has the original flex hoses they're 'way overdue for replacement, so you might want to renew them while bleeding the brakes.
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bkaab
- Posts: 29
- Joined: Wed May 07, 2008 9:30 pm
It lives!!!! Started it up tonight. First time this car has been ran in over 2 years and all we did is put a new battery in it mixed some new gas with the old and used some starting fluid. Now the car is starting with out even spraying the starting fluid in.
This thing sounds so good
Ill be tuning it up more this week and hopefully have it on the road by the end of the month.
This thing sounds so good
Ill be tuning it up more this week and hopefully have it on the road by the end of the month.
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Ol'fogasaurus
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