Possible rust repair solution.

ubercrap · Post by **ubercrap** » Sun Apr 15, 2007 7:40 pm

I read about this in a hotrod magazine and looked it up on the net. Worked great on the magazine project. Looks very promising, I think I'll try it.

www.rustbusters.com

Your thoughts?

wildthings · Post by **wildthings** » Sun Apr 15, 2007 10:21 pm

I used these guys to galvanize a part for my boat, this one encounter was very good, seldom have I gotten as much for my money. I think that spray welding with zinc, which is what they do, offers a lot to the car restorer. I have been tempted to totally strip a van and haul the hulk down to them and let them sandblast it and then spray galvanize it. Should add many many years to a vehicle's service life.

fortyeye · Post by **fortyeye** » Sun Apr 15, 2007 10:40 pm

As long as it's treated as a filler and rust inhibitor and not as a structural component. The completed jobs I've seen look like excellent, original panels and joints, but are the result of a lot of work (post spraying). The plus is that you're working metal (zinc) instead of plastic filler and as such, the repairs should be much more stable in the long run. The business model for the company that manufactures the welder/sprayer seems a bit thin and their price (franchise) seems a bit high. Looks like there are quite a few locations that have taken the plunge though.

vwbill · Post by **vwbill** » Mon Apr 16, 2007 2:43 am

Great find!! That looks like a great engine lid repair option!!! Maybe even the door bottom rust out fix too!!! Great info Uber!! Thx, Bill
p.s. Do you need to prep the parts yourself or do they prep for the fill?

albert · Post by **albert** » Mon Apr 16, 2007 4:15 am

allo,i am back on this forum , afther long périod of absence ,, i t is a great find,, on my 412 in 73- the first horner make this treatment on my 412 ,, i have find ,afther 30 years on the road ,, my car is very solid with no important rust ,excepted were he d,t can spray the rust proof ,, inside of the door post ,,,one inconvéniant is bad odor ,, plus i am not a doctor , but with the heathing systhem on the 412 ( hot ventilation) the microfilm of the zink can geeve you some sick ,, wend it is dried afther 2-3-4 years ,, if you spray that on your car, d,t put that in the air tube , yes the zink rust proof is the best thing ,, albert

raygreenwood · Post by **raygreenwood** » Mon Apr 16, 2007 4:54 am

The best repair I have seen for this is Eastwoods "leadfre" solder. You can sand it smooth...but it does not rust and has a relatively low melt point. It also does not absorb water like body filler. Ray

fortyeye · Post by **fortyeye** » Mon Apr 16, 2007 5:50 am

I wholeheartedly agree Ray. Body solder is easy to work, inexpensive, and miles ahead of any plastic filler.

raygreenwood · Post by **raygreenwood** » Mon Apr 16, 2007 8:07 am

I am working on a rear deck cover right now.
Picture this. Take fiberglass dremel cut-off wheels.
Turn the deck lid over so you are looking at the inside. You will see a folded and welded seem all the way around the edge where the outer sheet of metal was wrapped to the inside and welded.
Take the dremel tool and carefully cut right up against the seam....all the way around.
Take care not to cut into or through the outer skin.
Them seperate the inside. You will need to cut through the two stabilizer "straps" that support the water baffel that are visible through the grates from the outside.

You can now seperate the inside pressd steel part from teh outer skin.

At this point, you can de-rust totally with acid...and work any rust holes with body solder.
When I am done.....I will re-insert the inside sheet metal, secrure it with JB weld...and solder the thin cut gap around teh edge. Sand it to look like factory...and paint it. Ray

fortyeye · Post by **fortyeye** » Mon Apr 16, 2007 5:37 pm

Sounds good Ray. No future surprises.

wildthings · Post by **wildthings** » Tue Apr 17, 2007 9:32 am

You guys are failing to see the advantages of this process. You can essentially get all the accessable surfaces on your car galvanized so you stop further deterioration in its tracks, floor boards, rockers, battery trays, you name it. Yes you can build up thin metal with it, but to me it is the galvanic protection that makes it truly worth while.

raygreenwood · Post by **raygreenwood** » Tue Apr 17, 2007 2:41 pm

Oh don't worry....I truely see the advantages of galvanizing. Just remember though, not everything can be galvanized unless it can be removed from the car. Inside of body panels that you cannot remove....I find its better to derust using acid...then hose it out, let it dry and re-rust lightly...then use phosphoric acid. Its even more permanent than galvanizing. Galvanizing the rear deck lid would be great..except that you have to do it after you do any welding or soldering because its not great to weld galvanized metal.
In fact...the hoods and doors would greatly benefit from galvanizing.
I have one good deck lid and one wth disease. I may disassemble the bad one and do the soldering first, then galvanize the whole thing after re-assembly. Ray

albert · Post by **albert** » Tue Apr 17, 2007 3:00 pm

hi,, ray ,, you see , here we have the most hard contry in the word for the rust on the car ,, and i have only see one car who can résist to the rust afther 15-20 years ,,it is the audi,,5000-or 100-200 in usa ,, with the galvanise body ,, and afther 6 audi i know that,, and i thing if we are in obligation for to do 412 restoration ,, go in the scrap yard and buy old ,, audi rocker panel,,or floor or doors parts , for to take one patch and reesolder on the 412 and you have only the solder point with the possible rust ,, that is only one kind of solution ,,albert

ubercrap · Post by **ubercrap** » Tue Apr 17, 2007 3:04 pm

Well, I was thinking about getting it done on my car that has C pillar rust holes as well as some in the rear quarter. The holes look like they could be filled using this method. I really, really don't want to weld these double walled areas (on this particular car). I don't think it will be an inordinant amount of work after having it done, no complex seams, edges, panel intersection, etc. need it.

raygreenwood · Post by **raygreenwood** » Wed Apr 18, 2007 9:32 am

I have a few small but really critical area rust holes that are going to get body solder this summer. The nice thing about the new body solders...is that they are lead free so they can be sanded very smooth. They absorb no water like polyester filler so they won't re-rust. They are high in zinc so the solder will not rust. They are low temp...usually about 400F. They also have a special fluxing system you use to make sure the stuff adheres. The nice thing is that unlike lead itself, the new solders are quite hard and stiff.
They use so much less heat than welding.

Albert...Wildthings, I definately agree that galvanizing is the best way to prevent rust. You have no argument there. All I am getting at is that once you have rust, you need to find a way to repair it first, then prevent re-rusting. I would make sure that all repairs are first done, welding, soldering etc....before galvanizing. The galvanizing itself can make later repairs difficult without having to strip the zinc off.
One of the things I am not 100% happy with are the cold galvanizing compounds. They are good yes....but the adhesion and lifespan is not the same as the electrolytic galvanizing process.

ubercrap · Post by **ubercrap** » Wed Apr 18, 2007 10:08 am

They are actually using the sprayed on zinc as the filler itself. I'm sure the stuff is similar to the solder, just sprayed quickly and thick, and most importantly, without me doing any grueling torch work! They claim they can spray it on up to 1' thick, yes you read that right, one foot thick. I've read it is very affordable too. It says "Rust holes of any size can be fixed" but I wonder what things need backing, etc.. or does the stuff just pile on there like magic (like I am hoping)?

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Possible rust repair solution.

Possible rust repair solution.

Wow cooool stuff!!

possible rust

rust reapair