Poor Man 4 seater.

Getrdone · Post by **Getrdone** » Mon Jan 15, 2007 8:37 am

Ok, I follow now. I kept thinking mount deflection. The lower is the same. I may be looking at changing that. Hey why do so many long travel cars have no limit straps? They get air all the time, they must be thrashing their shocks. Am I missing sumtin?

scott the viking · Post by **scott the viking** » Mon Jan 15, 2007 9:57 am

Na...A lot of them don't like the "clutter" of limit straps. So they build in a stop somewhere else. I personally like straps because they are so much smoother as a stop. Otherwise it's kind of harsh when it unloads against a solid stop.

The Wild Kids · Post by **The Wild Kids** » Mon Jan 15, 2007 12:38 pm

When I had my straps on this is how we set them up hope that it helps you out. Jack up the rear and let the suspension hang free. We used a angle gauge on the axle to meaasure the angle and adjusted the strap to keep is within limits of the CV angles. I never had any problems with my CV's but I also worked on the CVs and opened up the cages.

The Wild Kids

tuff_puff · Post by **tuff_puff** » Mon Jan 15, 2007 10:50 pm

also alot of "tripple bypass" shocks have rubber bump stops built into them. so you dont need a limit strap. they just set the bypass to "bump out" a 1/2" or so befor the coilover does

Getrdone · Post by **Getrdone** » Sun Jan 28, 2007 9:37 pm

I got it on the ground today. I will update soon.

Post by **Leatherneck** » Mon Jan 29, 2007 8:30 am

Looks good lets see some side shots. What kind of travel are you getting? Yea I need to eat soon too.

Getrdone · Post by **Getrdone** » Mon Jan 29, 2007 9:01 pm

Well, the front I am getting a true 12". The rear looks like 14". I may have too short a axle (19.25") to get the full droop I could have. I had the axle in with one clip on a side. Travel will be limited to how far the axle pulls out the cage on droop. I am running a T1 trans now. When I switch to a bus trans I should be able toget a bit more due to it being a bit wider . I just have to wait and see once it is all together and I can run the CV's with no boots and just enough grease to roll. Here is a side shot. The shocks are not even close to setup. I have to tke them out again to finish some trim on the wheel wells. I ran the e-brake out the side and through new tubes. The handle still needs to move back a few inches but travel should'nt affect it. The tube will be bent in to coverthe side of the pivot bolt once I am done aligning the rear. What are ypu guys running for toe in the back?

takotruckin · Post by **takotruckin** » Mon Jan 29, 2007 10:22 pm

i think rear toe in should be somewhere between 0" and 1/8"

rickosuave1987 · Post by **rickosuave1987** » Mon Jan 29, 2007 10:32 pm

Hey clint it looks good. I really like the cage. Are you going to just rattle can it? or get it powdercoated?

Getrdone · Post by **Getrdone** » Mon Jan 29, 2007 10:43 pm

powdercoating is for wimps. I like to be able to "fresh'n" it up with a rattle can. I never say be careful of the paint. If I decide to add something I can whenever. Powdercoating is nice but I am done stressing over scratching anything (except my shocks). I spent too many years on hotrods and streetrods that now I am burnt on being that anal. Tired of padding tools, jacks etc. I think the arms etc. would be cool to coat. But I am lazy and dont want to wait. You need to take everything in a batch to save money.

Getrdone · Post by **Getrdone** » Fri Feb 02, 2007 8:27 pm

Ok, I finally capped the holes in the rear torsion area. It was one of those jobs you just keep ignoring and don't feel like doing. I'm actually very proud of them. I winged it freehand and nailed on the first shot on both sides. I also got the brake and turn signals in. I decided to mount the tire vertical. Pulled the shocks out to finish some paint and minor welding. I'm hoping to fire it up this weekend. I also need to make a handle for the e-brake. I am thinking of making two handes that can pin together for street use and seperate for a turning brake. I re-routed the the brake cables to run under the seats. What type of sealant do you use for the cir-clip on the drive flange. I bought some seals but forgot they are way to small for the 930 flange.

scott the viking · Post by **scott the viking** » Fri Feb 02, 2007 8:32 pm

That spare won't hold any air.

The Wild Kids · Post by **The Wild Kids** » Sat Feb 03, 2007 7:58 pm

scott the viking wrote:That spare won't hold any air.

Also hard to mount with out some steel in the middle or aluminum. lol! As for the toe in you mentioned, we try to keep it to a minimum.

The Wild Kids

Getrdone · Post by **Getrdone** » Sun Feb 11, 2007 8:39 pm

Started the wiring the other day. I understand why good wiring is so expensive, slooooowww. I need to order relays, warning lights and some switches. So far wiringsupplies.com has good prices anyone know of anywhere else? Finally put in the droop stops up front. I really underestimated the time I would spend on limits. I was pretty excited when I got zero bump steer through the entrie travel range, which ended up at 14"'s. I was expecting a small degree. I am done with nic knack stuff for now, it's time to drive. I need to put the shroud/alt together after some repair. I am pulling a alt. off another engine and do I need to get a new stand? I had a gen. Here are some pics.

Post by **Leatherneck** » Sun Feb 11, 2007 8:44 pm

Try http://www.delcity.net/ have had good luck with them not sure how prices are compared with wiringsupplies. Yes on the alternator stand.