FAQ - Drum Studs, Bolts & Lugs

Offroad VW based vehicles have problems/insights all their own. Not to mention the knowledge gained in VW durability.
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MNAirHead
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FAQ - Drum Studs, Bolts & Lugs

Post by MNAirHead »

OR BEST/Hall of Fame Series
This thread series is intended to help you improve your work and reduce headaches. This is a collective project.
BACKGROUND - Studs, Bolts & Lugs
VW did a great job of eliminating parts from the cars. Compred to US cars, they eliminated 32-40 parts too many --- studs. If you race, you're not a allowed to use wheel bolts. It is common for Wide 5 rims to pop out the threads.

Not sure about you... I've lost a wheel on the freeway... thank goodness for driving school.



QUESTION - WHEEL Fasteners

Any comments on screw in studs... pull through studs... good ol time bolts?

How do you secure your rims to the drums (or disks)?

If you're a racer, are the low cost stud kits acceptable or is there a fastener grade required?

Why do threads pop out of early wide 5 drums easier?
Last edited by MNAirHead on Wed Nov 29, 2006 9:53 am, edited 2 times in total.
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takotruckin
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Post by takotruckin »

wide 5 uses smaller bolts than 4 lug
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DubsMcGee
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Post by DubsMcGee »

Wide 5 are M12x1.5(1.25?) and 4 lug are M14x1.5
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scott the viking
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Post by scott the viking »

Can tell you an experience I had with the cheap thread in studs...they would probably be a decent idea if the would make them out of something a little harder than wet toilet paper..
In my driveway...I goosed my rail and the threads pull right out of the rotor on one side. Didn't hurt the threads in the rotor..but pulled them right off the studs. I use the press in style stud.
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bajaherbie
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Post by bajaherbie »

scott, did you have to mill the press-in stud head for clearance? seems like i've read about it before....

i need some studs for my front wheels, got any in your junk pile? :lol:
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scott the viking
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Post by scott the viking »

I had never heard that before...BUUUUUT....they would not go in until I froze the studs and heated the rotor...So they where close to going in...but just needed a little help.
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MNAirHead
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Post by MNAirHead »

bajaherbie wrote:scott, did you have to mill the press-in stud head for clearance? seems like i've read about it before....

i need some studs for my front wheels, got any in your junk pile? :lol:
Do you mean recess the stud heads so the brake drums clear?... meaning end mill stud head spot?

T.
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scott the viking
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Post by scott the viking »

If that's what you meant...no...I have discs.
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bajaherbie
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Post by bajaherbie »

duh, you did say rotor.... :lol:

i think on drums you might have to clearance the head w/ an end mill bit...
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sideshow
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Post by sideshow »

I love my cars, but wheel bolts WTF?! Chasing a wide 5 bolt hole during studded tire season converted me to studs. Even hub centric 4 lug all get converted.

A nice picture/product description http://1800vw.bizhosting.com/race_studs.html from Vic.

And a how to install them thread is found http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=89041
Yeah some may call it overkill, but you can't have too much overkill.
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Skidmark
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Post by Skidmark »

I used the press in studs from McKenzie's... I bought the correct size drill bit, then shopped around and bought a piloted end mill to spot face the material on the inside of the drum. This allows the head of the stud to sit flat, and clear the brake shoes. If you don't do this, the head of the stud can rub on the outside edge of the brake shoes...

DRILLED
Image

SPOT FACING THE DRUM
Image

READY TO PRESS THE STUD
Image

STUD PRESSED IN
Image
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dustymojave
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Re: FAQ - Drum Studs, Bolts & Lugs

Post by dustymojave »

Well it's been a helluva long time since this was posted. But Skid...Can you tell me where you got this counterbore?
Years ago I had a similar tool for this precise purpose called a "spotface" which I bought from a machinist supply in the SF Valley in the '70s. That place is long since gone. It was a round 1/2" dia shank tool with a replaceable cutting bit (like a flat plate fit into a slot in the shank & held with a setscrew) and a replaceable pilot retained with an allen screw into the end of the shank. I foolishly loaned this tool out many years ago and never got it back and forgot who I loaned it to. So I have been shopping on and off recently and have not found one which would do the job.
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Ol'fogasaurus
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Re: FAQ - Drum Studs, Bolts & Lugs

Post by Ol'fogasaurus »

The symbol/description for counterboring and spot facing are different as the processes can be somewhat similar, depth being the major difference. Spotfacing is for making a flat surface to the diameter given/needed (so your bolt head or washer sits flat and/or does not ride the radius/interfer with the radius just like Skid showed); counter boring is for setting the head of the bolt down inside a/the hole (depth for example).

I just went to the Enco on line cataloge and they deal with the tools similarly/in the same section; but look for a counterboring tool that is self aligning. Spot facing can be a pull though process as well as the process Skid showed.

Lee
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Skidmark
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Re: FAQ - Drum Studs, Bolts & Lugs

Post by Skidmark »

Machine Tool Supply

714-641-9007
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Chris V
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Re: FAQ - Drum Studs, Bolts & Lugs

Post by Chris V »

I've had our machineshop fit Sway-A-Way studs and stock VW Bay Window (5-112) ones too. I used the (M14x34mm) Bus ones in my Thing front drums with BTR's and all has been good. I've run really long M14 press-in studs from Porsches too, and 1/2-20 studs on one of our circle-track Rabbits...the other has screw-in studs, and they have never failed, but probably on avg. every third weekend they're removed and re-loctited.

I've found that sometimes the press-in studs spin in the hubs so it's not unusual to weld them in using a nickel rod.


Type III rear hubs w/4-100mm PCD
Image
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