My rail project (56K go bake a cake)

Post by **Leatherneck** » Mon Nov 13, 2006 8:04 am

Awsome job on the post. Thanks for going to the troubles of putting it on the STF, I know it takes awhile to do that, and you are on dial up, what a PITA that must of been. Man what a job you are doing, and Don your friend even if he didn't have the car what a friend he is in helping you out like that. Again you have really done a great job of the step by step on your build. Now for some questions as more will come later. I notice it is going to be street legal, how much off-roading are you going to be doing? Has the crank been drilled for 8 pin or is it still 4 pin? What thickness is the metal that you fabbed up for the dropped fuel tank (BTW good idea) looks like it will have no problem holding. IS there a reason you went with the coil overs that you bought, and have you installed them yet? Keep posting and letting us see the progress of this rail. And last but not least Welcome to the STF make yourself at home, ask what you need and help out where you can.

DubsMcGee · Post by **DubsMcGee** » Mon Nov 13, 2006 8:21 am

I'm not on dial up, I just wanted to warn anyone that is about the massive amount of pictures. As for the amount of off roading, there will be some, mostly trail riding and a little bit of mudding. I will probably keep it fairly mild. I wanted this to replace my old Nissan Pathfinder that I both used as a daily driver but also had some fun in the brush (the buggy won't be a daily). The crank is still a 4 pin, I'll probably redrill that next time the engine is apart (I already have some future plans and it hasn't even been started yet

). The brackets for the gas tank were made out of 1/4"x2" flat stock that we cut and welded together. There really was no reason that I purchased the coilovers other than they are aestheticly pleasing and I plan to bring it to a few local car shows in the summer. Nothing has been installed yet, there will be a dry run before paint to make sure everything fits. Thanks for the welcome.

Post by **Leatherneck** » Mon Nov 13, 2006 9:33 am

Do some research on the shocks trust me on this one. There is a difference in the ride you can get and what they (shocks)are meant to do. Are you using the stock torrsion in the rear? If so that is not a problem just an improvement that can be made. You are right about changes you are already planning. I did the same with mine and even after the rebuilds I was planning other changes. It never stops!

BTW marry her, your a lucky man.

SANDDUDE · Post by **SANDDUDE** » Mon Nov 13, 2006 5:42 pm

Looks like you do good work!

"DING".......gotta go.....................!!!!

bajaherbie · Post by **bajaherbie** » Mon Nov 13, 2006 7:15 pm

shawn, is that a beer flavored cake?

ChadRat · Post by **ChadRat** » Mon Nov 13, 2006 7:22 pm

Shawn doesn't make anything without beer!

SANDDUDE · Post by **SANDDUDE** » Mon Nov 13, 2006 7:37 pm

I used a key ingredient "yeast"!!!

BTW...........DubsMcGee & I will get along great!!!

* exibit "A" *

DubsMcGee · Post by **DubsMcGee** » Mon Nov 13, 2006 7:48 pm

Ahhh yes, I see you are familiar with the game "find that beer". I'd be interested in how many I could even find

tuff_puff · Post by **tuff_puff** » Mon Nov 13, 2006 9:12 pm

somebody is liveing "the high life"

DubsMcGee · Post by **DubsMcGee** » Wed Nov 15, 2006 7:43 am

UPDATE 11/15

Hooray!! Done with welding on the frame. The upper shock bosses were the last thing to go on, now time to prep and paint

I also got the trailing arms and tie rods painted up last night.

I know it's a small update but I was excited.

Post by **Leatherneck** » Wed Nov 15, 2006 10:43 am

DubsMcGee, I Could be wrong but you might have a flexing problem with your upper shock mount, see what the others think. Thanks for the updates looking good. Do you have an expected first ride date?

DubsMcGee · Post by **DubsMcGee** » Wed Nov 15, 2006 11:28 am

Hmmmm, I see what you are getting at. Do you know the spring rate of stock torsion bars? I would like to figure out the twisting moment that could be created. I think I have thought of a way to negate the potetial problem without cutting the old one off and replacing it with a tube. I was thinking of welding a couple more plates perpendicular to the existing plate at a diagonal to add some torsional stiffness. But I don't think it would be totally neccessary, the boss is offset from the middle of the plate 4.75" from the weld which I think would provide enough torsional stiffness to prevent excessive flex. What does everyone else think?

takotruckin · Post by **takotruckin** » Wed Nov 15, 2006 1:04 pm

i think leather is right. it does look pretty flimsy

DubsMcGee · Post by **DubsMcGee** » Sun Nov 19, 2006 5:17 pm

So we tried to fire the engine today but could not get oil pressure, we checked everything that we could think of. We took the oil pump out and made sure that it was turning, it was. we made sure that the filter was not clokked, it wasn't. We blew air through the passages in the pump opening, air came out of both the pickup tube and pressure switch hole. We also took the oil cooler off and blew air through there and no clogs. We cranked for probably 5 minutes in 1 minute intervals and still nothing, we even left the pressure switch hole open to check for any signs that it is moving oil, nothing. When we checked to see if the pump was working both it and the filter were bone dry, we then filled the filter with oil, still nothing. The only thing we didnt check was the relief valve only because the retaining plug was really stuck and we didnt have a screwdriver big enough. If anyone has any suggestions or ideas about what is going on please fill me in.

If anyone has a flow diagram for a 1600 DP engine could you please post it up?

SANDDUDE · Post by **SANDDUDE** » Sun Nov 19, 2006 5:44 pm

Tap the relief w/ a hammer (lightly) then try it w/ the biggest screw driver you have.....also did you pack the oil pump w/ grease or assembly lube? That will help create the first suction.