***Grease your CV joint ***

bajaherbie · Post by **bajaherbie** » Tue Oct 31, 2006 3:35 pm

1,000 lbs?, what a fatty. 550 or less is where it is at.........

Class 11 streeter · Post by **Class 11 streeter** » Wed Nov 01, 2006 10:11 pm

Leatherneck wrote:
MNAirHead wrote:If you want to reduce weight.. use Ujoints
What is the combo/parts/vehicle years required for that. What adapters are needed and where might one get them?

IRS stubs and trans output flanges, Datsun 280Z/B510 axles, and you will have to machine out a flat round spacer, like a giant thick washer, that fits inside the CV flanges to give the U joint something to sit flat against in the stub/output CV cups. It's old school tech at it's finest, it's main advantage is strength, and I doubt it will give the same travel a garden variety 930 conversion will.
At the Oct Pomona swap meet I saw that setup on this "former drag bug" that used to run "300 HP reliably" with the U-joints. I didn't think to get a picture of the u-joint setup, seemed like dated tech to me, but it was so simple I don't think you would need a pic.
I *do* remember seeing the same axles on an old school type Baja (complete w/zenith on a SP motor) years ago near my town at a Mickey D's, but to me it didn't look like it would do more than a well prepared type 1 CV jointed Baja.

MNAirHead · Post by **MNAirHead** » Wed Nov 01, 2006 11:13 pm

Leatherneck wrote:
MNAirHead wrote:If you want to reduce weight.. use Ujoints
What is the combo/parts/vehicle years required for that. What adapters are needed and where might one get them?

Old school 280Z.. I've run them in the past.. have to fab the mount to your stub...

Class 11 streeter · Post by **Class 11 streeter** » Thu Nov 02, 2006 8:58 pm

MNAirHead wrote:
Leatherneck wrote:
MNAirHead wrote:If you want to reduce weight.. use Ujoints
What is the combo/parts/vehicle years required for that. What adapters are needed and where might one get them?
Old school 280Z.. I've run them in the past.. have to fab the mount to your stub...

Tim...........are you ignoring me???

MNAirHead · Post by **MNAirHead** » Fri Nov 03, 2006 10:45 am

sorry dude... I commonly am writing 30 posts that stay open for hours...

Sorry to cross post.

vintageorbust · Post by **vintageorbust** » Sat Nov 04, 2006 9:10 pm

Seriously man....how much ya want?

DesertGuy · Post by **DesertGuy** » Sat Nov 04, 2006 9:35 pm

Saw this in the January/February 2005 Sand Sports mag (outside of mag says '05 and inside says '06) and thought it interesting. These were made by Extreme Fabrication and I thought the kit was around $1500.00. What is current opinion on this type set-up? I am wondering if the drive axle is the end all to be all, why don't we see all Class 5 Unlimited's running them? Looking for some edu-ma-cation

-Steve

Edit: Found their website, $1350.00+

http://www.sandstuff.com/driveAxles.htm

Post by **Daniel G** » Sat Nov 04, 2006 10:19 pm

Seeing those axles gives me a tingly feeling in my pants...

Daniel

scott the viking · Post by **scott the viking** » Sun Nov 05, 2006 4:50 am

I honestly feel that this is the best set-up available right now. Not only are the very strong....just think how easy it is to grease a u-joint. I have been threatening to build a new rail this winter...well...swap most of my old stuff over to a new frame...and when/if I do...I am going with those. I first saw something similar to that a few years ago on an independent suspension rock crawler...I thought it was a good idea back then....glad to see they are available for buggies now.

Post by **Leatherneck** » Sun Nov 05, 2006 7:11 am

36* and 7" of stroke that is slick, only problem is now I have to save up some more money.

DesertGuy · Post by **DesertGuy** » Sun Nov 05, 2006 10:32 am

Alright, now you got me corn-fused. Let me get this straight, the drive axles are stronger, more articulation which means more wheel travel, less "parts" to go sideways on you. Then why doesn't everyone have them. I would think that "racers" would be all over this considering they would just need to carry a pile of drive axles. And "non-racers" alike, it cannot be the price. Because after you add up "race-prepped" CV's, boots, 300m axles etc..., you are getting pretty darn close to price, or at least in the neighborhood.

Also, it seems "THE UPGRADE" is the 934/5 set-up rather then the drive axles?

Any enlightenment is appreciated.

-Steve

scott the viking · Post by **scott the viking** » Sun Nov 05, 2006 11:15 am

Steve....this has been around longer than most people think. The problem was that u-joint had no in and out "plunge" obviously...and I think there was an issue (back then) with using a long slip yoke (don't quote me on the...I got that info like 5th hand). The issue has been fixed for a LONG time...BUT...the price has just recently been that low...last time I looked at them...a set was 3,600 bucks. So now that they are about the same as going to trick 934's and axles...I think it is something you will see more of. You will see it on my car anyway.

Post by **Leatherneck** » Sun Nov 05, 2006 11:24 am

To me it is also the maintenance aspect. Along with what Steve said the less moving parts. But even though the price has come down, it is still not cheap, and untill it is proven that dollar for dollar they are a better set up. And also making sure that what set-up you have is one you are goingt stick with. I have 2X3's and these axles would be wasted on that (IMO) so I will also have to go wider which means more money, dammit it is always about money. So Scott look foreward to seeing them on yours cause I am sure you will be there before me.

scott the viking · Post by **scott the viking** » Sun Nov 05, 2006 12:21 pm

Yeah...I can't go any wider on my arms and still have it fit in the trailer...so I know what size I will stick with...as far as tested...they have been (kinda) I mean...think of all the cars and trucks with u-joints and a few of them have them set-up in a similar way as these would run. This is one thing that I have absolute faith in...(and that is something I rarely say). Yeah...1,400 bucks is not giving something away...AND...I rarely break 930's...so...I really do not NEED this...but I want it. Hell...I don't NEED a sandrail.

GDRBORETIRED · Post by **GDRBORETIRED** » Sun Nov 05, 2006 3:35 pm

Same principal as the old Nissan Z axles. They didn't survive as well a CVs mostly due to weight componded by extreame wear in the slipjoint. I'm guessing mostly a maintance thing ie. cost of parts to replace worn components. If you didn't replace befor it broke you lost places and/or races. Back in the day CVs and lighter Sway-a-way axles out lived u-joints and heavier slip splines.