CV joint boot

Lahti411 · Post by **Lahti411** » Tue Aug 29, 2006 1:38 am

I should replace the CV joint boots of my '72 411 Wagon 'cause the rubber is looking dry and is allready getting cracked. Which boot should I use? Other problem I have is that the rubber parts on top of the front struts are allso cracking (the part you can see when opening the plastic cover cap in the front trunk) . What could I use to replace these?

raygreenwood · Post by **raygreenwood** » Tue Aug 29, 2006 2:57 pm

If have the 411, you need new strut mounts. In fact....on 411's, even if the car has "0" miles on it, age will destroy the upper strut bushings.
They are the same as early superbeetle with the symmetrically spaced bolt pattern. A much better upgrade would be to use the assymetrically spaced ones from a later 412. That also means using the 412 strut cartridge as well.

The axle boots are the same as a late bus or Vanagon. They are readily available at both dealers and aftermarket parts houses . Ray

Lahti411 · Post by **Lahti411** » Mon Sep 18, 2006 7:06 am

All the strut bearings I have seen, have the asymmetrical bolt pattern -even the ones the car parts sellers are offering for the early Super Beetle (-71 onwards). Are there still some bearing types offered for the Super Beetle that I'm just missing? Is there some other bearing that I could use? Is it difficult to replace the symmetrical with the asymmetrical type? Is there even room for that triangular shape? The 411 bearing is completely round after all.

wildthings · Post by **wildthings** » Mon Sep 18, 2006 10:27 am

The assymetrical bearing can be made to fit. You need to cut out the center hole in the tower and then carefully bend up the lip around the enlarged hole to duplicate the superbeetle shock tower. You also need to buy the bearing spacers that are used with the newer style bearing assembly. The total depth of the new assembly will be slightly different from your original, but can be made to work.

raygreenwood · Post by **raygreenwood** » Mon Sep 18, 2006 11:28 am

Yep...you are correct. What Idid was carefully and cleanly cut the hole larger. It gets very close to the bolt holes. You will need to add an extra bolt hole (maybe two..can't remember)....but instead of bendingt the lip up....I made a steel ring with three assymetrical holes to act as a backing plate from teh top side. It also cleans up any appearance issues. I installed longer and larger studs (you can get them from mcmaster carr. I used 10mm studs with a .080 backing plate on the top side. It is now stronger than stock. Took about 3 hours. Ray