Is there any way to install a bus tranny into a bug without running the shift rod outside the tunnel???? Also, I have heard that a bus transmission install makes the engine sit a little lower, if that happens then it will interfere with my bumper.
Trying to decide if I need to spend $950 on a Pro Sand bug trans with 4.86 gears, super diff and HD sideplates and just bolt it in. Or spend $400 on a stock rebuilt bus trans plus cost of CVs and adapters and do some modifying to install it.
bus trans into baja
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scott the viking
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scott the viking
- Posts: 3864
- Joined: Fri Apr 23, 2004 8:35 am
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INSAYN
- Posts: 350
- Joined: Fri Dec 14, 2001 12:01 am
Give Kris Barr a call.
I think he was making the kit for a while.
http://www.oregonmotorsports2000.com/default.aspx
I think he was making the kit for a while.
http://www.oregonmotorsports2000.com/default.aspx
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MNAirHead
- Posts: 9570
- Joined: Mon Sep 08, 2003 6:12 am
Isn't the "kit" just 2 welded couplers? There are some vendors who machine a piece.INSAYN wrote:Give Kris Barr a call.
I think he was making the kit for a while.
http://www.oregonmotorsports2000.com/default.aspx
Tim
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Steve Arndt
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mazda_6t9
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- Joined: Thu May 19, 2005 6:59 pm
here is a old post I made about installing it in the stock location.
Do you have a tunnel in your rail? like a bug-baja. This is what I did to mount my 3 rib in the baja.
1 install type1 tranny in the regular location with the stock mounts
2 get a piece of flatbar steel about 1-1 1/2wide by 1/4 thick, about four inches long
3 drill hole the same size as the shifter piece sticking out of the tranny into the car(the piece your coupler hooks to).
4 slide the drilled hole over the shifter on the nose cone all the way to where it hits the tranny nose cone
5 weld this piece pretty solid, but where you can still knock it off with a hammer, I had to use another piece of metal to help secure it
after your sure its pushed back and welded tight pull the type 1 tranny out and put the three rib through the same hole and push all the way foward until it hits your piece of steel
6 now you said you had horns so that makes it easier. put a jack under the tranny in the center rib and jack it so the pieces the inner cv's mount to(I forget what they call these) are about 1/2in to 3/4in higher than the horns on both sides. you want them as even as possible.
7 now you have to fabricate some brackets. you need to use 1/4in thick steel or reinforce the hell out of things if you go thinner. I used 1/4in thick
8 I used the four bellhousing studs, I just went to a hardware store and bought longer ones and put em back in. then I bet the metal in a vise with a BFH and went to work and bent it enough to meet up to a factory tranny bracket(type 1) and welded them together and used some extra metal to make it stronger.
9 for the front bracket I used the 3 rib front piece and cut it up and used
only it, no other pieces were needed for the front.
10 the axles have to modified if you are running stock trailing arms, you will need one complete bus axle and two complete irs axles, take the cv's off the bus axle and take one cv off each end of the bug axles either grind the bottom of the splines so the bus axle will slide all the way down so the clip will fit back on so now you should have
bug cv, bug axle, bus cv, tranny, bus cv, bug axle, bug cv
also I have heard instead of grinding the axle you can tap the bus end to hold a bolt and a big enough washer to hold the cv in place
I had the first setup on mine and only broke one axle coming off a 4 ft jump with a pretty heavy baja(2 people and alot of supplies) and I had the pedal to the floor so it came down spinning the 31inch tires. After that I carried a extra one and the allen wrench just in case
Do you have a tunnel in your rail? like a bug-baja. This is what I did to mount my 3 rib in the baja.
1 install type1 tranny in the regular location with the stock mounts
2 get a piece of flatbar steel about 1-1 1/2wide by 1/4 thick, about four inches long
3 drill hole the same size as the shifter piece sticking out of the tranny into the car(the piece your coupler hooks to).
4 slide the drilled hole over the shifter on the nose cone all the way to where it hits the tranny nose cone
5 weld this piece pretty solid, but where you can still knock it off with a hammer, I had to use another piece of metal to help secure it
after your sure its pushed back and welded tight pull the type 1 tranny out and put the three rib through the same hole and push all the way foward until it hits your piece of steel
6 now you said you had horns so that makes it easier. put a jack under the tranny in the center rib and jack it so the pieces the inner cv's mount to(I forget what they call these) are about 1/2in to 3/4in higher than the horns on both sides. you want them as even as possible.
7 now you have to fabricate some brackets. you need to use 1/4in thick steel or reinforce the hell out of things if you go thinner. I used 1/4in thick
8 I used the four bellhousing studs, I just went to a hardware store and bought longer ones and put em back in. then I bet the metal in a vise with a BFH and went to work and bent it enough to meet up to a factory tranny bracket(type 1) and welded them together and used some extra metal to make it stronger.
9 for the front bracket I used the 3 rib front piece and cut it up and used
only it, no other pieces were needed for the front.
10 the axles have to modified if you are running stock trailing arms, you will need one complete bus axle and two complete irs axles, take the cv's off the bus axle and take one cv off each end of the bug axles either grind the bottom of the splines so the bus axle will slide all the way down so the clip will fit back on so now you should have
bug cv, bug axle, bus cv, tranny, bus cv, bug axle, bug cv
also I have heard instead of grinding the axle you can tap the bus end to hold a bolt and a big enough washer to hold the cv in place
I had the first setup on mine and only broke one axle coming off a 4 ft jump with a pretty heavy baja(2 people and alot of supplies) and I had the pedal to the floor so it came down spinning the 31inch tires. After that I carried a extra one and the allen wrench just in case
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Eriksport
- Posts: 249
- Joined: Wed Sep 18, 2002 12:01 am
I made all my own brackets from advice offered on here. I had to trim the welded seams on the inner edge of the tranny horns. Made my own solid front bracket that bolts to the nose cone, put a support under the first bulk of the tranny and a strap over the top that bolts down. The rear bracket holds the tranny in a solid bolt on unit, and the 2 studs from the engine adapter catch a tab on either side. Puts the engine at a raised angle, but so far it looks like it will only help keep things off the ground.
Erik
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bigtreads
- Posts: 3
- Joined: Wed Mar 08, 2006 6:35 pm
I would recomend the 10 Degree kit sold by McKenzies . I am in the process of installing one now and it has so far been totaly the way to go.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=119707
that should get you started
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=119707
that should get you started