Need new floor pans 75 standard Beetle

[Mike Hassan]

Does any one know a good place to get replacement floor pans? I need to replace the sections in front of both the driver and passenger seats. I'm looking for good replacement parts (comparable to original specs) to make replacement and body/chassis reassembly go as smooth as possible. Thanks again, Mike

[Bruce2]

If the front half of each side is rotten, the rears must be just about as bad, right?

The amount of work to do just the front half is close to what it takes to do the whole side. The complete sides are better quality than the front half. Of all the floor pans for all the years, the ones for your car are the best quality. Here they are:

http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp ... %2D061%2DQ

http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp ... %2D062%2DQ

[Mike Hassan]

Thank you Bruce. CIP is exactly what I am looking for. Strangely only the fronts are bad, but you are absolutely right to replace the entire floor pans and will go that route, thanks again. Mike

[veedubhotrod]

I'd go with the ones @Wolfsburg West.

[volkswagen50]

I did my first set of floor pans these last two Sundays. I work 6 days a week, and have no time after work to do them (it's dark out!) It took me two hours to get the body off. The motor and tranny were already out (not needed, but nice) Forgot about the speedo cable ! The pans I did with a saws all, 4 1/4 inch grinder, hammer, cold chisel, gloves and a wire feed welder. I measured quite a bit in the back area to get it right. I'll know next weekend after I get the steering rebuilt and drop it back on the pan. I used stacks of deflated but on the rim tires to hold the body up. There was a four x four beam under the bumpers spanning to the tires. It's all I had.

Greg 73 Super.

[Mike Hassan]

Thanks for another source. Mike

[Mike Hassan]

Greg, Thanks for the play by play. This is my second Bug restoration. First was a 72 Super, now I have a 75 standard. This is my first crack at floor pan replacements and looking forward to it. Body is off and the chassis is completely stripped. I am waited to order more tools and parts; sort of at a work stoppage for the moment. I don't mind because it gives me more time to shop and get other restoration ideas. Mike

[Bruce2]

I'd go with the ones @Wolfsburg West.

The ones sold by WW are identical to the ones from CIP1 since there is only one manufacturer for that part.

[volkswagen50]

The tough part is the spot welds along the tunnel. The tunnel has a lip formed by two pieces, making it thicker. The pan is laid on top of it and then I assume a machine spot welded it together. I used the sawsall to cut close to the lip, using it as a guide. You want to leave the lip. Then Itook the chisel and hammered away at the spot welds. Takes some time. The grinder is for whats left of the spot welds. The corner where the pedals go is tough. As is the back spine part of the floor where it meets by the shifter coupling. Something I didn't know was the hook like thing under the rearmost outside edge. It comes off of the rear torsion housing and holds up that corner. The floor panel is double panel there and normally spot welded to it. I had to cut around the hook thing and then hammer off the spots. It also means that when you put the new floor in you have to weld upwards to pickup this point. It's important. Good luck! Greg

[Mike Hassan]

Thanks! A couple of questions for you.

1. Did you do any welding on the botton of the chassis to secure/seal the new pans?

2. Is there any work required on the bottom to seal or do finish work?

3. What did you do?

Mike

[Mike Hassan]

Thanks!

[Bruce2]

..... Then Itook the chisel and hammered away at the spot welds. Takes some time......

This is what the air chisel is for. Takes no time at all. I have a friend who can do 2 complete pan halves in one day flat. Drive in, drive out.

Mike, to seal the whole thing, you smear urethane caulking over every joint, top and bottom. This is what VW was doing by the mid 70s.

[Mike Hassan]

Thanks. Mike

[Southernbug]

Hi Mike,

I just installed new pans on my 74 beetle over the holidays. Feel free to shoot me an email if you have any questions on the steps & tools I used. I also have some pics on my website. (See link below)

Good Luck,
Shane

[robbied31]

Mike,
My 2 cents, it is best to drill thru all the spot welds, stopping when you get thru the pan to minimize the drilling done on the tunnel lip. then, drill holes in pan halves [for spot welds] to match up where the old spot welds were to add steel where some was removed by drilling.

Rob