radiator in the back

RXBeetle · Post by **RXBeetle** » Tue Dec 06, 2005 2:11 pm

For all the US folks, I just measured the jeep cherokee radiator, It is 35.5X11.5in. total width. It would fit perfeclty in the package shelf area. And for the record that radiator can cool very well, I have had it sitting at idle for close to an hour at a stand still and up to 100mph for about 5-min. straight with out a blip on my temp gauge (I'm using the mazda rx7 guage cluster). Granted I do run twin electric cooling fans. As long as there is air flow in the back there I see no reason this location/radiator combo won't work great.
I'm not to worried about the fiberglass smell, I have a truck bed spray on liner kit I got on ebay that I will be spraying the entire interior of my car with. It is pretty much gutted right now save for a couple cheapie racing seats and a fiberglass dash. I can't smell much anway, not that that is an excuse. I probably can's smell anything from exposing myself to all those solvents in the first place.

bean_8044 · Post by **bean_8044** » Wed Dec 07, 2005 7:24 am

Fiberglass doesnt smell once its cured. While its curing you really should be wearing a mask or something thats going to filter your breathing air. Otherwise youre going to mess up your smelling sense for maybe the rest of your life. Theres alot that i havent been able to smell for the last few years. Its not dangerous if you take the proper precautions

meh73sb · Post by **meh73sb** » Fri Dec 09, 2005 6:04 pm

i thought up an idea that seems feasable, but i need a radiator that will work on my superbeetle
need to work:
skill
patience
time
3 dual fans
radiator the size of the decklid
2 hoods from 2 subarus with hood scoops(same car, not too tall of scoops)
mesh grille
time
patience
skill

how?
the hoodscoops and hood would be mounted under the engine compartment but(able to bolt off of course). these feed air into two fans that PULL air into the engine bay. the rad goes where the decklid would go with a fan PUSHING air out of it.

why?
by looking at the computer image of the airflow of a beetle, i noticed that there is a huge amount of air being moved around by bottom of the beetle's engine compartment. why not use this and dirrect it up through the engine bay and out the back.

when i get the funds, parts and welding skill to do this i will attempt it, as it seems as though it would work.

bean_8044 · Post by **bean_8044** » Fri Dec 09, 2005 8:22 pm

Im not trying to knock the idea, but there may be a few other things to consider. For instance, the engine itself still needs to have airflow. In a configuration with the radiator behind the engine in terms of airflow, youre blowing hot air onto the radiator. Another thing is that you can only rely on fans at speeds below highway

RXBeetle · Post by **RXBeetle** » Fri Dec 09, 2005 9:24 pm

Above the engine location also blocks access to the engine. You don't want to have to drain and remove the rad everytime you want to adjust/check something. If you are talking about using the hoods as belly pans and then scooping the passing air underneath the car you have to consider the area of the opening of those scoops, I highly doubt there is enough flow to cool most engines. A simple air dam will have a much greater effect.

bean_8044 · Post by **bean_8044** » Fri Dec 09, 2005 10:50 pm

Therein lies the other problem. If you want any high speed stability you need to work on the air flow. Specifically a front air dam which cuts out alot of air flow underneath the car which would have gone to the engine

Baja Wes · Post by **Baja Wes** » Tue Jan 03, 2006 5:05 am

Hi guys, just letting you know I have updated the thread at
http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/view ... #pid443715

I added some scoops to my rear radiator set-up, and have given some feed back.

Baja Wes · Post by **Baja Wes** » Sun Nov 16, 2008 7:07 pm

Hi,

Just another update, I have added an electric water pump and digital controller which has given me more accurate temperature measurements.

http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/view ... 693&page=5