I've about given up trying to adjust my DVDA/34PICT California MID-Summer '73 THING's carb. No amount of bypass valve and volume valve adjusting cant achieve a consistent IDLE. Thinking about replacing all with a SVDA + compufire ignition and a SOLEX 34PICT or some other model carb if someone would recommend one?
Today when the THING died on me I noticed a sound coming from the carb or the EGR valve... sounded like a percolator coffee maker. Or a fish tank air bubbler thing. I pulled the vacuum line from the EGR valve and got a loud HISSSSS like I was puncturing a coffee can, only louder and longer. This car's EGR filter is not attached to the exhaust flange as it should be. No hose pipe. The hose fitting to the filter looks rusted shut. I assume it's sucking the air out of that filter can leaving a big vacuum down in there.
Haynes says a engine extremely rough at idle but smooth as engine speed increases can be caused by the EGR valve being open at IDLE. It recommends repair or replacement but does not discuss how to do either!
I'd like to disable, disconnect, plug or whatever I need to do to remove this disfunctional EGR valve from my car. Can anyone recommend how to do this? Will simply pulling the vacuum line from the EGR valve disable it?
(See HAYNES page 6-4.) ++++ Sorry for the long message+++++
Bad Bad IDLE, running revs OK Suspect EGR Valve
- CapnDavy
- Posts: 27
- Joined: Fri Jun 24, 2005 4:56 am
- bowen71
- Posts: 53
- Joined: Sat Sep 03, 2005 10:27 am
It depends if the EGR is open or not if the EGR is open all the time it is one big vacuum leak. not to insult you smarts but the EGR is exhaust gas recirculation so if it is not hooked up to your exhaust then it sucks air from the outside and at an idle it wont be able to correct for it. If it is working right and is opening and closing then you can just unhook the vacuum and it will be ok I believe. So I hope it helps
thanks...Since then I've blocked off the egr valve, swapped distys to a single vac SVAC and added a compufire point system and I still can't get the bloody engine to idle.
I've rechecked the valves, cleaned the plugs (they were very sooty) and reset ignition to 30deg advance at 3000 rpm.
I'm thinking there must be a problem with the carb... although it's so new it shines.
It is still making that bubbly coffee pot sound after shutdown as the engine is cooling off and I now think that noise is coming from the carb.
I cannot achieve a slow enough rpm to adjust the carb. As soon as the engine warms up choke opens fully and the throttle closes she coughs, won't accellerate and shuts down.
She runs good at cruise throttle.
DW
I've rechecked the valves, cleaned the plugs (they were very sooty) and reset ignition to 30deg advance at 3000 rpm.
I'm thinking there must be a problem with the carb... although it's so new it shines.
It is still making that bubbly coffee pot sound after shutdown as the engine is cooling off and I now think that noise is coming from the carb.
I cannot achieve a slow enough rpm to adjust the carb. As soon as the engine warms up choke opens fully and the throttle closes she coughs, won't accellerate and shuts down.
She runs good at cruise throttle.
DW