timing 74 2.0

[jloh]

you might have fried the condensor. they are pretty cheap and available at any parts place. like autozone or whatever.

i really feel bad now!

[jloh]

maybe the points too...again, available everywhere

i really sorry, i hope i didnt f'up too bad!

[Dave_Darling]

Did I burn something out having the green wire to the +?

If you connected the +12V (black) wire to (+), and the green points wire to (+) at the same time, and tried to start the car, you shorted the ignition circuit to ground. The circuit goes from the battery, up to the ignition switch, to the #9 fuse (but sadly not through the fuse, which would have popped!), through the relay board, to the coil (+), through the condensor, through the points, through the ground braid in the distributor, to the distributor body and then eventually to the chassis and back to the battery.

If you did not hook up the black and the green wires to the same post, you should be OK.

If the timing light is blinking, that shows you at least have some voltage going through the plug wire. So chances are you're OK... But I'd still check for +12V on the black wire when the key is on (unplug your points-replacement gizmo, some of them really hate to have the power on without the engine running!). Check the wire going to the coil (-) terminal to see if it gets grounded as the engine rotates (have someone crank the starter)--it should have voltage some of the time and ground some of the time. This will be difficult to see with a digital voltmeter, but you can probably at least see some effect.

If you've got the Muir book, dig it out and read what he has to say about ignition. Lots of useful info and tests in there.

--DD

[HB]

UPDATE:
I tried starting the car with the old distributor which a friend explains is still in good shape. Also I was getting a flash from the timing light as I tried to start the car. I did not smell any gasoline. I then took out one of the fuel injectors and then tried starting the car to see if I was getting any gas out of the injectors. Unfortunately no gas. I can hear the fuel pump working but the injectors are not firing. I read somewhere that this may be a burned out coil primary or secondary on the MPS???

IF so I can measure the resistance. Do I measure the resistance by unpluging the MPS from the ECU at measure the unplugged wires at the ECU? Can I measure at the MPS itself? I hope its not the MPS

[pbanders]

Check my website for information on how to debug your FI system.

[HB]

I have been booked with social life so I have not had much time to work on it. But I attempted to test the resistance at the ECU plug. However, I could not find the plug. It seemed that the wiring was hard wired into the metal case. I expected the plug to be there. Is the plug on the inside of the case? Am I just being stupid?

I did measure the resistance at the MPS and the coils seem fine.

Condenser maybe??? Still no gas at the injectors.

[Dave_Darling]

The condensor won't affect the FI.

The plug is inside the case. You have to remove the case from the engine bay, unscrew the retaining screw for the cable clamp, slide the cover off, then you can unpug the connector.

Check your manuals... Except they're wrong about needing a bent wire thing to pull the plug, it can be pulled by hand.

--DD

[raygreenwood]

The bent wire thing was probably a generic D-jet copy-over from the very early type 3 manuals. I have seen only one that way. The resistance of the MPS can be checked at teh MPS by measuring the outer pair and the inner pair. They are...outer about 96 ohms and the inner about 33 ohms. That generally will not stop the injectors from injecting, but can stop the ECU from giving the correct signal for load enrichment and basic fuel mixture. This can easily be a simple ground cluster problem....check the six wires on the case parting line under the intake plenum....or a pump that is running but venting through its relief valve. Check the fuel pressure with the pump running.
It can also be a bad cylider head temp sensor. Ray

[HB]

Update - fixed the distributor issue - well, a hired a guy to help me with it and we fixed it. What was the issue, you ask? Me. So thats fixed. Now I still have the issue of the extra fuel being burned. The resistance in the MPS is fine however the vaccuum is no good. So its time to replace the MPS. Where can I get one?

[Dave_Darling]

Look everywhere. Swap meets can get you used ones at good prices, but you need to bring a hand-vac with you to check to see if they hold vacuum. (I would have picked up 2 today if I'd had my Mity-Vac with me!)

Pelican can, I think, still get the 74-76 ones. Sit down before you look at the price, though... Not cheap is a vast understatement. Bret Instruments rebuilds them and some places can get those, but they don't respond the same as the OEM ones. Better than nothing, though. You may be able to fix yours, but maybe not. Check http://members.rennlist.com/pbanders for lots of MPS info...

--DD