MASSIVE TYPE IV wrote:As for honesty:
the reason I'm doing this is to prove things. Lying would only hurt what I'm doing more than helping it. If I were gonna lie I wouldn't tie up the shop for 2 weeks- I'd just write some posts and that would be it.
Honesty, Jake...but most of all, humility.
To take a step back from the work and investment you've put in and admit defeat at the hands of an "inferior product" speaks volumes about you're ability to set aside pride; the inability to do this has been a detriment to many business' in the ACVW community, as well as the progress of the community itself.
So if cheap chrome shrouds work better.. does that mean a Bernie Berman engine can put out 300HP last 100,000 miles, never leak oil and be perfectly steetable????? My world is spinning!!
Not all of them are the same for sure... This was the only one we tested that worked! The rest followed the trend of really sucking bad!
Speaking of a TV show:
Rumour has it that a certain cable channel wants to do a series called "Aircooled Garage".... Its a serious rumour and I have already gotten "A call" from those seriously involved..
MASSIVE TYPE IV wrote:Not all of them are the same for sure... This was the only one we tested that worked! The rest followed the trend of really sucking bad!
Speaking of a TV show:
Rumour has it that a certain cable channel wants to do a series called "Aircooled Garage".... Its a serious rumour and I have already gotten "A call" from those seriously involved..
That would be awesome.. hard to believe but hopefully something will come out of it.
As for the turd if it will keep my engine cool then hand it over
MASSIVE TYPE IV wrote:Rumour has it that a certain cable channel wants to do a series called "Aircooled Garage".... Its a serious rumour and I have already gotten "A call" from those seriously involved..
I'm not surpirsed about either.
Cable TV is so diverse that there is room for an antique automobile show dedicated to the (I think) second most produced automobile and possibly the most popular in history worldwide.
There are a number of personalities who could be regulars on said show. I think it has a lot of potential, especially if they don't bow to advertisers, but instead provide useful tech info. What's the chance of that.
hear is a question that someone like my self thinks right away.first fantastic info being made public that all can bennifit from.but also i noticed that 3/4 side is running 75 deg hotter ,so as a engine builder right away i'm thinking what i should do to that side differant due to the increase in heat being generated there.
looser piston clearance/larger ring gap/valve clearances/head torque/cooler plugs -all these things could make a differance on performance.never really thought about it until someone tosses these figures in your face.what do you think?????
Sounds like a 009 theory. Jake which Distributor are you using? A Mallory I assume. Busting the 009 cooler (or hotter) running # 3 myth might be interesting. Tim
well.... Its not always #3 running hotter... sometimes its #4 with some systems..
In many of my cars with stock shrouds and dual CHT gauges the left bank runs hotter than the right. This is even true on TIV engines! My 912 E with stock tin runs hotter by 50 degrees on the 3-4 side..
Doing something to imbalance the engines state of tune is "putting a Band aid on a sucking chest wound" It is the cure of a symptom and not a resolution to the source of the problem.
I will plan on testing the 009 retard idea, BUT I'll tell you now that retarded spark means higher EGT- that EGT gets soaked up by the head and makes more or equal heat. I think the factory did the retard to decrease piston /chamber failure if #3 got hot- more than to keep 3 from getting hot.
The engineers knew they had an issue that they could not solve- I'm determined to solve it, even if it takes me 10 more years of off and on testing!
It has been the tendency of every system to overcool #1 and undercool the entire left bank since the first test. This was Joe's reasoning for building the DTM design- we are going to make it work- somehow...
The only shroud that has yielded a #1 temp higher than 300 degrees has been the stock doghouse system.... Also the factory knew that #1 ran coldest- look where they positioned the stock thermostat! They wanted #1 to warm up to operating temperature.... Only thing is that while it was warming up #3 was baking! Thats getting tested tomorrow...
MASSIVE TYPE IV wrote:36 HP STYLE, with the stock doghouse cooler....
This is a 69.95 Taiwanese chrome part, with no modifications- It has beat EVERYTHING so far.
I can't friggen beleive this, this is new to me, I mean they look cool cause they are round and all, but I always thought they were the worst POS out there, and the sides don't fit right, because they were for a narrower engine, but Bugpack has thos shims now.
I still don't beleive this............
Jake, here is a barf-bag , I can't even imagine how you must feel, maybe something was giving you a false reading?
I sat down last night and did some thinking and measuring of the inside capacity of the left side of the shroud. The 36 HP shroud has 1/4 LESS given area on the left side... This decrease in plenum area fills with a charge faster and surely increases pressure within the plenum. This enhances the pressure within the shroud and makes better use of the vanes that the shroud does have. Since it has fewer vanes the restriction is less and the air tends to be easier to move to the pertinent areas of the engine..
Basically the right side of my system is too big, and the left side is also too big.... Thats my hypothesis- still looking for a couple of airspeed indicators from a Cessna or a Piper so we can see the pressure differentials from side to side on the plenum sides as well as the exhaust sides of the shroud..
yes, this does make one almost throw up, and not be able to sleep at all..... whats even worse is that it cost me over $5K so far..................
My world is spinning!!
You can see your reflection in this turd I just polished!
