ANOTHER valve geometry question....

Who is the best person to rebuild your engine? You...
britegreenVWSB
Posts: 637
Joined: Thu Apr 11, 2002 1:01 am

Post by britegreenVWSB »

Hey ANT, I actually DID do a search for this info. Not much came up - 4 things, maybe. None of which really answered my question. So, I can't logically be blamed for being "lazy." I could be blamed for being "curious" because I don't want to grenade my valve train on an engine I've already spent - Ah, I'm not going to get into that. Suffice to say, I want to do it right. Sorry to tire you out. I guess I'll ask less "tiresome" questions next time. On the other hand, if you were really "tired" you wouldn't have posted that "tiresome" rant at all. :?

TG
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ANT
Posts: 979
Joined: Thu May 24, 2001 12:01 am

Post by ANT »

britegreenVWSB wrote:Hey ANT, I actually DID do a search for this info. Not much came up - 4 things, maybe. None of which really answered my question. So, I can't logically be blamed for being "lazy." I could be blamed for being "curious" because I don't want to grenade my valve train on an engine I've already spent - Ah, I'm not going to get into that. Suffice to say, I want to do it right. Sorry to tire you out. I guess I'll ask less "tiresome" questions next time. On the other hand, if you were really "tired" you wouldn't have posted that "tiresome" rant at all. :?

TG
Well, I did write that response very late hence my extra onery(sp?) tone. But your the answers to your questions seem to have been addressed in the links I provided.

Grant me the recognition that I didn't just pitch a bitch, but offered the information that you sought. As far as your having researched this beforehand, I had no way of knowing that....some people mention that when they initially ask their questions just to avoid hard feelings as this.

All that aside, do you now have a grasp on this topic, or do you have more questions?
-ANT
Da_Scully

Post by Da_Scully »

I don't think it's so bad a question, and the answer is as follows:

When the adjuster is at the valve end of the rocker, it should be pretty much parallell with the valve stem at half lift. If it is at the pushrod end it should be parallell with the pushrod at half lift.

Such recommendations are to allow you to compensate for ratio rocker cams and large barrell spacers - you don't need precise settings. If it looks straight, it's probably good for anything up to top-fuel (I knew a guy who built winning engines in that class, but then again, he had a bloody good eye!)

If you have to get radical with an enginge that's not, you probably bought cheap cast rockers that were made in Taiwan, and your valve train won't last anyway.
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