Ok guys...whats up..
Heres the new project for the week..
Puting in new Pushrod tubes..its a 1834cc..I got the screw out adj. ones by:bugpack I got extra seals.. I got a pretty good idea of what to do here but..Im wondering if youguys got tips For me...like should i get new springs or anything like that while im doing this or
Just replace the tubes..Ok well thanx for any advice you can come up with...
I'd start by finding a stray cat.
A sacrifice may appease the oil leak gods.
(...there doesn't seem to be any more rational explanation of why those things will seal one day but not the next).
Seriously, you've got to find the perfect happy medium adjustment that'll compress the seals enough to make up for the angle mismatch and yet not squish them out. Good soft hi-silicon seals seem to help, as does judicious application of Curil K-2 or similar smup. Silicon seal is never a good idea.
so what you are sayin, other than the oil leaking being a issue.
The job shouldnt be To hard..ill just take my time and go slow ..
I heard something about not having to take the rocker arms off...this cant be right..
Can it. oh well thanx for your help man..
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Marc:
<B>I'd start by finding a stray cat.
A sacrifice may appease the oil leak gods.</B><HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
hehehe...make the VW gods happy and they will treat you good. i usualy leave the sacrifice till after the projet...some tall frosty cold ones.
afterthought.... especially if you have "fat" aftermarket pushrods and/or 1.25 rockers, be sure to check for clearance between them and the small-diameter end of the repair tubes (which you would normally be putting towards the heads to minimize the chance of leakage at the center joint).
And of course you'll check the rocker assemblies over for worn parts (wavy washers, clips, adjusting screws) while they're off.
Althow we like the spring loaded better they should not leak. The main thing every one does wrong is use some sort of sealer. Put them on dry. This means no paint, oil, ect. Have you ever removed any old ones that you had to pry away from the case. Thats because they were put on Dry see -> http://www.1800vw.bizhosting.com/oilleaks.htm
[This message has been edited by vicsvw (edited 02-08-2003).]
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by vicsvw: The main thing every one does wrong is use some sort of sealer. Put them on dry.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
I'm in agreement for stock pushrod tubes, but due to the misalignment inherent with the repair tubes only one side of the seal ever gets firmly pressed against the head/case and I've had better results using the Curil on them. I've also used it on stock tubes for trackside repairs when enough new seals weren't to be found and it worked OK, so even though it ordinarily isn't needed I don't think it would ever actually cause leakage...but I've never seen one assembled with silicon seal that didn't leak.
OK I know I need a Torque Wrench.Got that.
But one of my boys, was telling me I need a
valve spring tool...I havent heard this before.. Can anyone let me know if this is true.. Im sorry if i sound like a Dumb@ss!!
Im learning fast With your guys help.. So once again thanx for any help you can hook me up with.!.
If you get a valve spring tool then you can change the exhaust valves if they need it, but if you are just doing the pushrod tubes then a valve spring compressor is not needed.
man...."I HATE IT when it rains.!."
The last 2 days, rain rain rain... Only when i want to work on my car right.. Well tomarrow ill do it if it doesnt rain...
God i hope it doesnt rain...
