69mm counterbalanced crank?

Spooger · Post by **Spooger** » Wed Feb 21, 2001 10:20 pm

I am looking to build a reliable 1776 type 1 with a 69mm counterbalanced crank. I would like to get some opinions from folks familiar with this setup regarding manufactures to buy or not to buy from with regard to the crank.
Additional input on CAMs & Piston/Cylinder companies would be appreciated.

Thanks much...

'69 Sunroof

vwnate1 · Post by **vwnate1** » Thu Feb 22, 2001 6:39 am

You will be very glad you bought the counterbalanced crank , it reduces vibration a lot and that means more power to the wheels . I used one in my son's 1700 project , that car turned out to be a Integra killer

.

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-Nate
Filth & Greed Imports
(the LAST honest VWshop)

bartman · Post by **bartman** » Thu Feb 22, 2001 4:16 pm

i got a welded c/w DPR crank from kustom1.it was advertised as a demello.it was also ground incorrectly.the flywheel end main was .006" too big.the bearing wouldnt go on it.sent it back.got another one.the first was ground .020".the replacement was .010".better but i had to exchange the bearings.
other than the snafu,it works great.winds up to 65 effortlessly in 3rd.

JordanK · Post by **JordanK** » Thu Feb 22, 2001 8:03 pm

Stay away from anything cast. Forged cranks cost more but are well worth it. the Scat volkstroker III is cast, btw. the volkstroker II is forged...other than that, i cant' really say. Scat is a good company for other stuff though, i have their C-25 cam in my 1776, and i like it fine. don't quote me, but if i remember right the duration of that one is 286 and the lift is 389? something around there... If you're going to drive pretty hard you might want to think about going up to the C-35, mine drops off after about 5500 rpm... I would go w/ cima or mahle pistons, check in most Hot Vw's adds, lots of places have them. Good Luck

------------------
Jordan
1963 Beetle, 5 spokes, 1776, dropped spindles, etc...
1973 AutoStick Beetle, stock.

vicsvw · Post by **vicsvw** » Tue Mar 06, 2001 2:32 pm

If you are not going to be spending much time at over 5500 rpm, don't waste your money on the counter weighted crank. Most street motors spend most of there time at 4500 rpm or below. There is nothing wrong with the cast cranks if when they are reground correctly. I have an old CB cast crank in a 2180 that ran the Mint 400 twice and Lots of local races. We then turned it into a street motor and logged many many miles on it. The only problems with the motor was when we put in a set of CB Hyd. lifters. Vic -> http://www.1800vw.com P.S. Over the years we have have sold cast and forged cranks. Scat at one time had an article in Hot VW's and stated the cast crank was the best and gave lots of reasons. Then later the had another article on why the forged cranks were best. Both article were truthful, so I guess it makes a big difference what your selling at the time.

SteveStromberg · Post by **SteveStromberg** » Mon Mar 12, 2001 10:57 am

Build it with a WBX crank its really the way to go,you can then run a 210 or 228 clutch. I build these motors but for a detailed breif see: www.veemotors.co.uk/
Steve www.914underground.com

Glenn · Post by **Glenn** » Mon Mar 12, 2001 12:34 pm

Remember this name GENE BERG. Stay with GBE any you can't go wrong. Get the GB-188DFO ($411), it's a 69mm counterweighted crank (forged) that comes with 11/32" 8 dowel and 12.5lb lightened flywheel. The crank and flywheel are balanced as a single unit. If you don't abuse it, it will last a long time and will handle all the power a 1776 can put out. Buy it once, it's alot cheaper in the long run.

[This message has been edited by Glenn (edited 03-12-2001).]

zen man · Post by **zen man** » Tue Mar 13, 2001 11:18 pm

BERG is the direction you should be going, but you'll have to pay top dollars. Demello and DPR is another thing you should consider. Buy from Aircooled.net or Kymco, excellent service, great price.

stevestromberg · Post by **stevestromberg** » Sat Mar 17, 2001 8:47 am

Forged Volkswagen Factory Crankshaft Water boxer 69mm for $175.00 or Aftermarket for $400.00 I will take the factory unit. The 69mm Waterboxer crank is the way to go when building a Type1 motoror make a stroker using a 76.8 waterboxer to build a 1976cc These cranks also go for $175.00(90.5x76.

.Steve

[This message has been edited by stevestromberg (edited 03-17-2001).]

vicsvw · Post by **vicsvw** » Sun Mar 18, 2001 9:57 pm

If you think you have to have a counterweighted crank in a street motor, then it's hard to go wrong with the DEMMLO crank. This is a little Class 10 1600cc engine we put together about 12 years ago, using the DEMMLO crank. IT's still Std. & the case has never needed line bored.(It was built with a .020 line bored case originally) > http://www.1800vw.com/generic.html?pid=1