Cast vs Forged Crankshafts

James2 · Post by **James2** » Sun Feb 03, 2002 4:41 am

The FI case is better, but i would use the one in the best shape-

Post by **sparkmaster1** » Sun Feb 03, 2002 9:21 am

I think CB offered stokercranks that were cast from the early 80's to early 90's. They were prone to snap in half so I think they finally gave up on them. The other problem they had was that the oil galley plugs would fall out. They looked like they were soft lead. Go with forged. I think the way to tell the difference is to give the crank a tap with a small hammer. Forged, nice ting, cast dull thud. Tim

John BUG2180 · Post by **John BUG2180** » Sun Feb 03, 2002 9:37 am

I hate to say it, but I have a Scat cast 69mm CW crank in a 1641. I bought it before they were ever advertised as cast, so I didn't know. However its in a budget bracket drag engine, and has seen losts of abuse. So far so good. It was a mistake and wouldn't buy another.
Yes, CB did make cast cranks. I heard good and bad stories about them. One only lasted a hard week on the street,but the flywheel let go. Then some other guy told me he had one for years of street and track abuse.
GO FORGED!

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John Springsteel
VW drag racer
BUG2180@aol

Derrick from NC · Post by **Derrick from NC** » Sun Feb 03, 2002 10:37 am

CB Perf known as Claudes Buggies long ago used to sell engine kits(crank, rods, pistons & bearings) that used a cast crank. I purchased a 2016cc(78mm x 90.5mm) kit from them way back then(15yrs ago). I never used it but sold it to a friend(I disclosed that it was a cast crank) who has run it pretty hard(7000rpm shifts) in his 63 choptop that has 10.5lbs flywheel, fully ported, nonwelded heads, with 40x35 valves, unknown cam, and 45 dels. No problems so far but he is planning to upgrade to a 82mm forged crank when the opportunity presents itself.

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:<HR>Originally posted by evil_vw:
well, as far as im aware, CB has always made their own cranks, and they are forged-- even as far back as 20 yrs ago, especially in an 82mm stroke. (they may have made a cast in 69mm form, correct me if im wrong) typically type 1 as41 dual relief case is superior to the as21 in performance applications or otherwise. Hot VWs did a thing on the two cases 6 issues or so ago-- lots of good info there.

<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

MASSIVE TYPE IV · Post by **MASSIVE TYPE IV** » Sun Feb 03, 2002 1:14 pm

The old CB cranks were forged and cast, according to the state of the kit you purchased.

The cast cranks they sold normally had the old school Porsche rod journals, I have seen many of these in older replicar engines that have had rod failures and the crank lived through it.

CB has a good forged crank now, I have had a couple with less than sufficient specs in the center mains, but we repaired the problem for 40 bucks, theynow use a removable oil passage plug, that does not come out like the lead ones.

The CB cranks are the best for the dollar, I *Believe* that they are made overseas, however..

I use them in most of my TI engines, problems are very rare.

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Jake Raby
Raby's Aircooled Technology
www.aircooledtechnology.com

evil_vw · Post by **evil_vw** » Sun Feb 03, 2002 4:54 pm

i disagree with "you can't tell a cast crank from a forged one by tapping it". its very simple-- tap it lightly with a small hammer. if it breaks in two, its cast. if it does'nt, its forged.

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OK, got the duct tape, JB weld, bailing wire, and a big hammer- everything should be fine.

Sidewalk · Post by **Sidewalk** » Sun Feb 03, 2002 6:01 pm

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:<HR>Originally posted by evil_vw:
i disagree with "you can't tell a cast crank from a forged one by tapping it". its very simple-- tap it lightly with a small hammer. if it breaks in two, its cast. if it does'nt, its forged.

<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

If you are going to spend the money to build an engine up, spend the extra money to do it right. A good crank will last a long time. If you break a crank, it may do enough damage that you have to build a completly new engine, which includes another crank.

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'59 bug-unstockStella
'88 Bronco II-unstock Sonja

John BUG2180 · Post by **John BUG2180** » Sun Feb 03, 2002 8:45 pm

As far as I know most forged aftermarket rods and cranks are forged in Red China.

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John Springsteel
VW drag racer
BUG2180@aol

Empified · Post by **Empified** » Sun Feb 03, 2002 11:17 pm

So if my 82 mm CB crank is cast should and it's prone to rod failure should I ditch the porsche 356A rods a go with some Carillo's?
The engine I'm building is a weekend warrior with a 5400 rpm rev limiter in my 009 45mm DRLA's total displacement 2275cc. I put the rev limiter in because I heard the porsche rods arent good after 5500rpm. If I go with the CArillo's I'm sure I could rev the crap out of my engine. I'm also open to cam sugestions. I was thinkin an FK 47 I have 041 heads ported n polished. Single heavy duty springs solid rocker shafts. but stock ratio. Let me know, Thanks Empified.......

Puck · Post by **Puck** » Sun Feb 03, 2002 11:37 pm

They way to tell a forged crank from a cast one is to look at the parting line on the crank throws. If the line is a wide like on a stock crank it is forged. If it has a narrow line it is a cast crank. You can not tell if it forged or cast by tapping it. You can however tell if it is cranked by the method. A big crank I would guess.

evil_vw · Post by **evil_vw** » Sun Feb 03, 2002 11:41 pm

any forged H-beam rod should do the trick for high-revving, Eagle, CB, Scat, whatever- those are all about the same-- ARP bolts a must for high rpm's. as far as your cam, i think you mean an FK 87, an Engle, and its a good cam design-- but you might want to consider a ratio rocker for that cam. single springs are good because it reduces the pressures on the valve train and you wont blast your pushrods and what not, but at higher rpm's you may expirience valve float-- this is the springs inability to keep up with the demands of the cam and rocker lift, and this has the potential to screw all sorts of things up. dual springs reduce this effect, but increase valve-train pressures. so if you go with the dual springs, make sure you have the necessary parts to handle the stress-- chromoly pushrods, retainers, lifters, solid shafts, rocker arms, etc..... Autocraft makes really good stuff for your valve-train-- its all i use. (but who am i?)

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OK, got the duct tape, JB weld, bailing wire, and a big hammer- everything should be fine.

solah · Post by **solah** » Tue Feb 05, 2002 1:32 pm

Go with Scat Billet! That way, if your car ever goes kaboom, you can trade the crank for another engine!

RANDERS · Post by **RANDERS** » Tue Feb 05, 2002 1:42 pm

Go with the Bugpack or Scat FORGED unit if you will be doing any hard driving. Cast is good for old ladies and totaly stock engines for guys that would like the extra counter weights. I dig the welded CW cranks that everyone sells. Bugpack and Scat both offer crank and rod kits.. go this route... it will save you some dough.

panel · Post by **panel** » Fri Feb 08, 2002 9:35 pm

What are the companies that sell 69 c/w cranks? and who makes 69 full circle cranks?
This is for an up comming purchase and I want to buy a forged 69 c/w crank. Whos should I buy?

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Turbo powered split window bus http://www.geocities.com/panelvan65/panel1

evil_vw · Post by **evil_vw** » Fri Feb 08, 2002 11:58 pm

yo panel!! several companies make 69mm cranks, or at least "remake" them. stay away from any cast crank- they are crap!! for the $$$ you should get a Demello forged crank. of course, you could always get ahold of our buddy Bernie Bergmann for one of those "full circle" cranks, but then again, you could melt down some old Coors cans and make one yourself better than that schmuck. the Demello will ste ya back $120 or so, and youll be happy with it. "Demello-- its a household name."

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OK, got the duct tape, JB weld, bailing wire, and a big hammer- everything should be fine. and yes, "i am a smart-ass!"