Hi,
I have fitted a new svda to the 2.0 type 4, the one with the blue plug connector for the hall unit.
It's better than the original worn out one with no overheating, in reliability sense for the moment anyways.
95% drives fine, good low end torque, no flat spots.
I'd like more top speed, just a little bit more.
Are there any tips for improvement please!?
The motor is stock 2.0 with dual dellorto DRLA 36.
As per advice on here 8 degrees idle /28 flat out btdc.
The engine checks out OK on compressions and decent service items=plugs, cap leads and valve adjustment.
The brakes are serviced and tyres checked.
Ps safe way to connect tacho remembering it has hall ignition needed pls. 2 old hand held meters, no instructions...
Type 4 svda improvements /mods
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Bruce.m
- Posts: 978
- Joined: Sun Aug 11, 2013 1:44 pm
Re: Type 4 svda improvements /mods
What rpm are you topping out at?
The CU motor has smaller valves I think and a shorter duration camshaft (Than the 914 & 411 cars). So the power will taper off sooner in the rpm range.
The CU motor has smaller valves I think and a shorter duration camshaft (Than the 914 & 411 cars). So the power will taper off sooner in the rpm range.
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Piledriver
- Moderator
- Posts: 22758
- Joined: Sat Feb 16, 2002 12:01 am
Re: Type 4 svda improvements /mods
Make sure to hook that up with the right Bosch coil driver, the Vanagon distributors hall sensor cannot drive a coil, and replacement parts don't exist.
From memory its the same setup Golfs of same years ran, so you have far more choices than just Vanagons if you need a hall module/connectors etc. The connectors at the distributor tend to disintegrate. There are 2 different distributor connectors in that era but the modules are electrically interchangeable.
I personally would find a dual vac dizzy for a T1/T3/T4 and stick points or a pertronix in it, possibly driving the OG Bosch coil driver, as it is a great high current coil driver. Carry a spare pertronix module if using it to drive the coil directly. Just set it so you have 28 degrees timing at 3500 RPM without vacuum connected, and lock it down. The vac can will add up to 20 degrees more timing under low load conditions. This is a feature, as you will run cooler and have better mileage at cruise. (must have ported vacuum port)
On the distributors wearing out, I just gutted the one from my Cabby with 180K showing, converted it to a 72-1 wheel (rc truck steel spur gear and a touch of TIG to fill a gap) had ~zero side play and I only had to shim the end play down. None of the pile of distributors I have seen had any significant side play on the main shaft, just bad end play or worn bushings for the weights occasionally. The one on my Squareback has >500K on it, has a 36-1 wheel in place of the guts for the last ~12 years but ~zero side play. (on a T4)
From memory its the same setup Golfs of same years ran, so you have far more choices than just Vanagons if you need a hall module/connectors etc. The connectors at the distributor tend to disintegrate. There are 2 different distributor connectors in that era but the modules are electrically interchangeable.
I personally would find a dual vac dizzy for a T1/T3/T4 and stick points or a pertronix in it, possibly driving the OG Bosch coil driver, as it is a great high current coil driver. Carry a spare pertronix module if using it to drive the coil directly. Just set it so you have 28 degrees timing at 3500 RPM without vacuum connected, and lock it down. The vac can will add up to 20 degrees more timing under low load conditions. This is a feature, as you will run cooler and have better mileage at cruise. (must have ported vacuum port)
On the distributors wearing out, I just gutted the one from my Cabby with 180K showing, converted it to a 72-1 wheel (rc truck steel spur gear and a touch of TIG to fill a gap) had ~zero side play and I only had to shim the end play down. None of the pile of distributors I have seen had any significant side play on the main shaft, just bad end play or worn bushings for the weights occasionally. The one on my Squareback has >500K on it, has a 36-1 wheel in place of the guts for the last ~12 years but ~zero side play. (on a T4)
Addendum to Newtons first law:
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
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K70
- Posts: 35
- Joined: Fri Mar 15, 2024 4:51 am
Re: Type 4 svda improvements /mods
Thank you Piledriver.
The point about distributor wires was 100% correct.
Tiny delicate wires easily ruined and a shutter wheel passing or touching.
Once I fixed them temporarily it ran OK.
People rebuild an engine and put all the old rubbish back onto it.
That distributor had been on 40 years and round millions of times.
The grey fibre spacer washer fell off in many peices soon as distributor was pulled.
Now sorting out timing ‐even though new distributor in exactly same place as old, need to keep it there at about 40 degrees btdc (hoses on ?!) For good performance. Tickover guessing 1200rpm +.
28btdc =hardly 70mph.
The point about distributor wires was 100% correct.
Tiny delicate wires easily ruined and a shutter wheel passing or touching.
Once I fixed them temporarily it ran OK.
People rebuild an engine and put all the old rubbish back onto it.
That distributor had been on 40 years and round millions of times.
The grey fibre spacer washer fell off in many peices soon as distributor was pulled.
Now sorting out timing ‐even though new distributor in exactly same place as old, need to keep it there at about 40 degrees btdc (hoses on ?!) For good performance. Tickover guessing 1200rpm +.
28btdc =hardly 70mph.
