I have a type 4 that I want to put in a 70 ghia
I'm overwhelmed by the choices. Cali conversion, DTM or CSP. The more I read , the more confusing it gets.
People say the cali doesn't cool the cylinders evenly.
The DTM doesn't have the thermostat flaps. I know the CSP is another option, but I don't know that much about them
The Cali would be the cheapest and I have a lot of the needed parts. The welding and fab work is definitely doable
Type 4 upright conversion.
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Type 4 upright conversion.
Last edited by luckyrabbit7 on Sun Jan 07, 2024 8:44 am, edited 4 times in total.
- Piledriver
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Re: Type 4 upright conversion.
The CSP is essentially a pre-built Cali setup, so that's essentially a buy vs build choice..
I live in Dallas Texas area. I know what hot is, as well as humid.
At least its not Houston, where you really can poach eggs in puddles...
...and you can smell Beaumont/Port Arthur/Vidor if the wind blows the wrong way.
(paper mills/chemical plants... I suspect the locals lose any sense of smell within minutes of arrival)
A properly done and installed Cali setup (well sealed engine compartment, no hot side/cooling air mix)
worked just fine on the hot 2L I put im my sons 71 Super. (buy/use a bay bus foam seal for perimeter seal)
The car had some issues, but the engine was never one of them.
The alternator stand I built used bay bus seat hold down bolt to attach a cut down t1 gen stand to some 1/2" aluminum plate.
(No welding at all. Very adjustable but never moved or loosened up once cranked down.)
It first had the cooling system on a handy 1.7 914 motor for awhile, was still a ball to drive.
A engine cover standoff probably helped, but make sure to buy a pair of loaf pans for air cleaner rain hats.
Baker Secret loaf pans worked for lids on my 914 with Webers for ages.
edit: alternator stand, not engine stand.
I live in Dallas Texas area. I know what hot is, as well as humid.
At least its not Houston, where you really can poach eggs in puddles...
...and you can smell Beaumont/Port Arthur/Vidor if the wind blows the wrong way.
(paper mills/chemical plants... I suspect the locals lose any sense of smell within minutes of arrival)
A properly done and installed Cali setup (well sealed engine compartment, no hot side/cooling air mix)
worked just fine on the hot 2L I put im my sons 71 Super. (buy/use a bay bus foam seal for perimeter seal)
The car had some issues, but the engine was never one of them.
The alternator stand I built used bay bus seat hold down bolt to attach a cut down t1 gen stand to some 1/2" aluminum plate.
(No welding at all. Very adjustable but never moved or loosened up once cranked down.)
It first had the cooling system on a handy 1.7 914 motor for awhile, was still a ball to drive.
A engine cover standoff probably helped, but make sure to buy a pair of loaf pans for air cleaner rain hats.
Baker Secret loaf pans worked for lids on my 914 with Webers for ages.
edit: alternator stand, not engine stand.
Last edited by Piledriver on Mon Jan 08, 2024 10:28 am, edited 1 time in total.
Addendum to Newtons first law:
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
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Re: Type 4 upright conversion.
Based on my research the CSP kit is fairly decent except for the quality of fit of the glass fibre cylinder shrouds. They do need some work to fit and I suspect they are a bit slack / gappy. That will reduce the efficiency of the cooling.
I decided to buy the CSP alternator stand, plus their pulley. I’ve also bought a 356 alternator pulley which can easily be reversed to shift the belt (CSP sell a reversed beetle pulley).
I will need to cut & drill a piece of aluminium square bar. That’s what the stand attaches to and it doesn’t come with the stand.
I will make the cylinder shrouds using the Cali method of doing a cut’n’shut using two sets of stock t4 tins.
I also plan to either use a cut down doghouse fan shroud (in the style of Salzburg Rally beetles) with cooling flaps / thermo (I rarely see ambient temps above 20C). Or I’ll use a Scat fan shroud with flaps retro fitted.
That’s my plan and I have a good chunk of the parts already but I’ve not done it yet & figured out all the problems!!
I decided to buy the CSP alternator stand, plus their pulley. I’ve also bought a 356 alternator pulley which can easily be reversed to shift the belt (CSP sell a reversed beetle pulley).
I will need to cut & drill a piece of aluminium square bar. That’s what the stand attaches to and it doesn’t come with the stand.
I will make the cylinder shrouds using the Cali method of doing a cut’n’shut using two sets of stock t4 tins.
I also plan to either use a cut down doghouse fan shroud (in the style of Salzburg Rally beetles) with cooling flaps / thermo (I rarely see ambient temps above 20C). Or I’ll use a Scat fan shroud with flaps retro fitted.
That’s my plan and I have a good chunk of the parts already but I’ve not done it yet & figured out all the problems!!
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- Posts: 11
- Joined: Mon Nov 02, 2015 5:07 pm
Re: Type 4 upright conversion.
I think I will go with the Cali conversion
The DTM is expensive and the wait for one is 6 months out
The DTM is expensive and the wait for one is 6 months out