2.9l street engine build

[MegaRookie]

Me too. This weekend I went for a short drive again and noticed that the carburators were lean at higher rpms. So I decided to convert it to EFI again, this will take some time, but saves a lot of time buying and changing jets. Throttlebodies, wiring and fuellines are already finished.

Only need to modify the throttle control a bit and a new fuel pressure sensor, and then its time to test it again.

Very curious.

[MegaRookie]

Unfortunately the dynorun didn't went as planned. Last the weekend I finished the EFI rebuild. Last tuesday I drove it on the streets and it did sound very good. Wednesday I did some maintenanance and also no issues with that.

This morning I visited the guys of the 1200cc challenge, and because there was some space left I had the chance to test it. The first run did sound very well, until 5000 rpm where it looked like a rev limiter. It made 250Nm (@4300 rpm) /162 @5000 rpm. First I thought it was an ignition problem, so I tried to get tho get the cnp coil working instead of the 009. That was no succes, cause I couldnt get it running.

After some searching in a log I found out that the rpm signal went to 0 after 5000 rpm, so it must be something with the sensor or VR circuit. The sensor clearance to triggerwheel was 1.1mm, and I adjusted it to 0.95. I also tried to adjust the VR pots, But that dindt work eighter (and only made it worse).

So the final result for today was 162hp, but I am sure there is a lot of power left. First I am going to fix this problem, then I am going to refit the efi/ignition and dry sump. I hope to put it on the dyno this winter/spring again. It was a great day, but hopefully with better results...

[Tony Z]

Thats still a lot of power at those revs.
Nothing to be ashamed of.
Sort out those teething problems - we are waiting for more

[Passatman]

Ok. I am going to use a hall sensor with my megasquirt. I have been reading about problems using VR sensors.

[Eddie010]

Nice, there is a lot more in there for sure..

[wreck]

I'm using a Toyota cam sensor (Hall) easy to get and non genuine ones are cheap . https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/36421729418 ... SwQ8NkN8HR

[MegaRookie]

Thanks to all of you! I have been using the Ford VR for years, and had troubles before, but so far i managed to get it running again. For now I have the ECU removed from the car now for testing the rpm signal.

And thanks for the advice for the hall sensor! I will take a look. I also use a hall sensor as cam trigger, and that one always works, so I might change the crank sensor.

I hope to post some pictures soon.

[Piledriver]

The problem with vr sensors is the signal can vary from milliVolts at cranking speed to literally hundreds of Volts at max rpm.
Closer you get, higher it goes, my guess is if you moved it out a bit it will rev higher but may not start...
Halls always put out the same voltage, although they can be sensitive to runout due to having automatic gain control.

The one I'm using won't work worth a darn with a 32 pitch 36-1 RC truck gear (one tooth filed off), but works perfect to >12K shaft speed with one tooth filled in with weld.(on a die grinder, works great in the car too)

[Wally]

Hey Mark,
It was was cool to have you at the dynoday. Pity an electrical problem showed up, but she sounded deep and powerfull!
Before trying complicated things, maybe check alternator operation and/or battery also. Sometimes its the easiest solutions we forget

Best of luck and I am also curious to see complete results lateron.
Walter

[blue thunder]

If you cannot get the VR sensor dialed in the trim pots, you could choose a LM1815 ic (check google for other components needed) or purchase a VR sensor conditioner from Speeduino. Both work great, and will definitely solve all problems.

Cheers, Robin

[MegaRookie]

Thanks guys! I made a log during the run. Voltage shows ok, so I guess it is something with the sensor/circuit/wiring. I had some problems with the crank sensor in the past, with the same MS2, so the best guess was upgrading the MS2 with a new VR circuit based on a LM1815 as Robin advised.

I finished the MS2 today (also with some new wiring and pcb connectors) so I hope to have it running again soon. I keep you updated!

Thanks! Mark

[MegaRookie]

Small update, tested the ecu today, and I got an rpm signal directly! No modifications done to sensor, wiring etc, so it really was the ecu. Only had time to run it on the driveway, so didnt run more than 3500rpm, but it looks good so far!

Some pictures of the ecu upgrates. (Need to do the coil wiring some day.

From left to right on the green proto pcb:
VR-conditioning for timing, Hall circuit for trigger, oil temp sensor input, oil pressure sensor input.




Updated the wiring inside to the pcb connectors:



Maybe I have some time tomorrow to test it on the street.

Enjoy the weekend!

[blue thunder]

Looking good! If you experience any hesitation at a certain RPM, try moving the sensor a few tenths of a mm further away. If the problem occurs at a lower RPM, then move the sensor a few tenths of a mm closer. Once you have found the ideal distance, you should have no hesitation at any RPM, and it should start easily. Keep us posted!

[Passatman]

Any news MegaRookie.

[MegaRookie]

To be honest I did not have a lot of time to work on the car, but, a few weeks ago I took some time to get it running again. Starting still is an issue with voltage drop on the ecu, so I made a new circuit with a backup battery (and batterysaver), to be sure the ecu has enough power, also when the main battery is low.

Due to the bad weather I only drove it to the winter storage, but rpm issues are solved and it runs nice now. Next year I will do some mods to the starter wiring, I guess that will solve the voltage drop problems.