Steering ?

[mlrailguy]

The steering box on my sandrail is worn out. I can no longer adjust the slop out of it. Debating on whether to go with new box or switch over to rack and pinion.. Is there any reason R&P is favored over VW box?

[Ol'fogasaurus]

The steering box on my sandrail is worn out. I can no longer adjust the slop out of it. Debating on whether to go with new box or switch over to rack and pinion.. Is there any reason R&P is favored over VW box?

The VW steering box usually can be rebuilt depending on the availability of parts. The R&P is a bit quicker and stronger as I remember but new connections to the spindles will need to be made/purchased.

On a rail, mount the unit to accommodate hang and compression height distances of the steering arms (front wheel travel). If I remember correctly, some of the R&P units have the steering shaft in different locations so you probably are going to have 2 steering universals on the steering shaft from the steering wheel.

Lee

[chuckput]

As Lee alluded to, a R&P steering box is quicker and the steering shaft connection will probably be in a different position. I have a SACO 1.5 to 1 steering rack on my Baja Bug. Many other R&P units I have seen are 1 to 1 ratio, but I wanted a higher ratio to lessen the twitchiness on the road. In my bug the rack is mounted in the center of the front beam. This requires three u-joints to wind the steering shaft around my master cylinders down to the center mount. If you have the budget, switching to R&P is a quick and solid operating steering option. On the other hand, if you are counting pennies, it might be better to stay with a stock steering box. Switching to R&P will require the the steering unit, new, equal length tie rods, a new steering shaft and the necessary u-joints.

[mlrailguy]

Cost is big factor as I'm retired and SS doesn't pay much. I see vw boxes are comparable to some of the r&p units. My box has been located to center of beam, so tie rods and u-joints aren't a concern.

[Ol'fogasaurus]

Cost is big factor as I'm retired and SS doesn't pay much. I see vw boxes are comparable to some of the r&p units. My box has been located to center of beam, so tie rods and u-joints aren't a concern.

I'm retired also (23 years now in Nov.). Unless you have another reason, I would suspect the best way to go would be with the same style you have. As you said, the changes that might be needed for a change can cause $$$.

R&Ps are usually quicker than the stock steering boxes plus you probably are used to what is there now so make it easier on you and SS .

Lee

[mlrailguy]

Thanks guys.

[Ol'fogasaurus]

https://www.bing.com/images/search?q=el ... RE&first=1

This is electronic rack and pinion. Not too familiar with them but you might look into them just for the heck of it.

I have never played with R&P but seeing a lot of rails that have been updated to R&P some had what looks to be some kind of shock (or I'm just not understanding what it was) might be especially good, especially when in the soft sand.

Lee

[mlrailguy]

Been using the old box for 20 years, just ordered new one from parts geek. Should last the rest of my life.

[Ol'fogasaurus]

Been using the old box for 20 years, just ordered new one from parts geek. Should last the rest of my life.

Many years ago, I was advised to be careful with "new" until you know the part(s) and even then, I have had "new" parts fail several times and that was after I had been cautious with them.

Off-roading can be hard on things even when they are designed especially for hard use. Even "good" can sometimes be bad. So can new, breaking down the word assume: To 'assume" can make an "ass out of you and me").

Work into "new with caution" then... have fun.

Lee

[mlrailguy]

Even if it is a rebuilt unit, it has to be better than what I have. I've adjusted mine as far as I possibly can and still have to turn the wheel half turn to get any movement from steering arm. And it has a 1 year warranty

[Ol'fogasaurus]

Even if it is a rebuilt unit, it has to be better than what I have. I've adjusted mine as far as I possibly can and still have to turn the wheel half turn to get any movement from steering arm. And it has a 1 year warranty

Thats pretty bad!

Put it on now as 1 year comes faster than one thinks.

Lee

[mlrailguy]

As soon as it gets here, it will go on. Leaving for Coos Bay area and possibly Winchester in just a few weeks, so I'm getting anxious

[Ol'fogasaurus]

As soon as it gets here, it will go on. Leaving for Coos Bay area and possibly Winchester in just a few weeks, so I'm getting anxious

Darn, just got back from there.

I finally got the brakes on my buggy fixed this time down (plus other things), it turned out that the right-side upper slave cylinder on my disc brakes somehow, during the last bleeding, had somehow got air in it. I also got the engine running after several years of sitting due to the brakes.

I didn't get to get out on the dunes as we somehow forgot to bring down the insurance card on the buggy for this year so, If I had gotten checked then the poop would hit the fan. Also make sure your tag is up to date as "they" are watching.

Got to get to the insurance company today to get a new one (a long confusing story on this).

Have a good time and watch for the food trucks especially the one with ice cream and other cold goodies it carries.

Lee

[mlrailguy]

Do you know if out of state riders have to have insurance on their sandrails? I have a temporary tag good for WA

[Ol'fogasaurus]

Do you know if out of state riders have to have insurance on their sandrails? I have a temporary tag good for WA

WA is different than OR even in the sand areas if I remember correctly.

https://www.oregon.gov/oprd/ATV/Pages/A ... -card.aspx

I am having problems finding the rules for riding on the Oregon dunes. The computer won't let me in right now I guess.

As far as I know an insurance card is still necessary for buggies and rails as well as Honda Pilots but not positive about the other newer and more expensive toys but the insurance card is still necessary for them also. It is in your best interest to have off-road insurance even if the requirement is not there now (I think it still is).

Getting a sticker for your toy to ride the dunes (easy to get and the price is not that bad) is still required.

There is a 93-decibel sound limit there also and it is enforced.

There was (and I still think there is) a short course you can take on the web for rules and I think you get a card for passing [was necessary and I think still is].

There are a lot of places to stay and I think most of them are on the web.

Gas is easy to find even the $$$$ versions .

Parts can be found depending on just what is needed.

Turn your radio off when on the dunes as hearing what is going on is important. Currently it seems to be a common thing.

Watch out for kids sitting on their dad's lap steering the toy with the parent working the pedals. They don't seem to be watching side to side just ahead.

Speed and selfishness are still a problem like is has been in the past, but you can still have fun. Holiday periods can be overloaded with people out screwing around.

leebuggy-12%20copy[1].jpg

I'll do some more looking around to see if I can get in.

Lee