2270cc type 4 EFI Turbo: my first engine build

[Wally]

Wow!

[rubenski]

Skillzzzz.

Keep up the good work!

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[Lo Cash John]

WOW!!!! This is an amazing build. When I have time I will go back through every page and photo to study the details.

I am currently putting together a much lower budget turbo type 4 and I am most curious about the exhaust ports on your heads. Do you have any pics or details you would mind sharing?

[split1950]

WOW!!!! This is an amazing build. When I have time I will go back through every page and photo to study the details.

I am currently putting together a much lower budget turbo type 4 and I am most curious about the exhaust ports on your heads. Do you have any pics or details you would mind sharing?

Sorry for the delay, I was is Austria skiing for a week (and freezing my butt off, -20C on Friday!)
Thanks!
I used 914 type heads so they have an oval exhaust port. I used stainless stubby pipes from TT exhausts here in the UK (Richard is a great guy, helped me no end with his wealth of knowledge and awesome quality parts).
There's also bigger valves, 44x38 , "special turbo spec" heads from Stateside tuning again here in the UK, using I believe AA castings as a base.

[Lo Cash John]

So you have basically "stock" 914 oval exhaust ports? Nothing special to improve flow?

[Wally]

So you have basically "stock" 914 oval exhaust ports? Nothing special to improve flow?

Make no mistake, those ports, when flowed properly (i.e. not hogged out) and with just a mild oversize valve like 38mm, flow very well!

[Bruce.m]

Small point to consider.
When a valve lift is below 1.4x it’s diameter the gap around the valve is the flow limiting factor & work done on the seat & each side makes all the difference. When the lift goes above approximately 1.4x then the port is more likely to have an impact so flow biasing & such like make a difference to the flow & efficiency

[split1950]

So you have basically "stock" 914 oval exhaust ports? Nothing special to improve flow?

Ported by James Calvert @ Stateside.
I'm assuming / hoping = woooohooo Ferris Bueller stylee - we will see soon enough

[split1950]

I will post some pics soon, I've been busy, made a post Turbo exhaust, wiring harness, gauges in

[split1950]

Got the Injector Dynamics 1050X's, had to use some adapters and fuel rail spacers as the Jeney ITBs seem set up for PICO which is about 1.5mm longer in O ring location area. I didn't take any chances here with O ring positions so did it right.. I won't put pics, its nothing to see really.
The exhaust silencer part from the Turbo onwards is mocked up and ready for finish welding (thanks to some advice from Richard @ TT exhausts and some kick ass 1D 3" stainless bends)

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I am waiting for EGT bungs and sensor drawings from Haltech: so the header I can't risk drilling for those until I can do a mock up. On the left hand side there's only about 50mm clearance to the oil line, I'm guessing the sensor is small but better to know before I drill the holes.

I had 2 days "off" over Christmas so made a body wiring harness and got the gauges into the dash. I made the decision to have a separate ECU / engine harness (except for the "standard" engine related wires in the body harness). I will have wideband, EGT amp, ECU and the dash (TBC) so that made sense to me to keep it apart.
I am still considering an iC7 Haltech digital dash but it could look out of place, the dash although a bit Fast and the Furious, looks OK I think. I was thinking about making an arm for the iC7 off the Semaphore switch hole or maybe use one of those sticky mounts on the windscreen so it is a temporary thing......what do you folks think? Is it too high tech / going to ruin this?

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[Clonebug]

I use the ECUMaster ADU5 Digital dash on my buggy and love it. It will display anything the ECU will broadcast on can-bus and it also has analog and digital connections in the back you can hook directly to the dash.
I am tempted to remove all my gauges and just use the dash.
I mounted it to the steering column using an Ebay light mount and modifying it a little to work with the dash.

Here is a little video showing the dash.

[rubenski]

I have the same exhaust for my turbo buggy. They're excelent quality!

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[split1950]

I have the same exhaust for my turbo buggy. They're excelent quality!

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Good to know! I just hope it is not too loud!

[rubenski]

It dampened pretty good. But i disnt re-install it after dragracing...

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[split1950]

So it is running on the Haltech Elite 1500!
I used IGN1A coils

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There's a few wires to connect

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So I made a connection to disconnect the engine if needed

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I decided to embrace the technology and went for the display too , I am finding the Autometer gauges are not accurate (so far)

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My buddy made a nice top pully out of stainless for the fan hub

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But all is not well........after 2 minutes of running at 2K RPM oil pressure drops to ~20 psi. (30SAE break in oil)
I am running out of places to look, next is to change the dry sump tank.
Surely my tuna can / turbo oil return or oil feed (from pressure switch port) can't cause this?
Those 3 things (tank, turbo, tuna can) are the only difference from when I did the cam break in on the test stand.
I can't believe a mistake was made in the case machining, the pressure at start is 65psi. Thorsten Pieper oil pump must be good (I have pressure).
Pump is sealed to case with RTV. I even fitted a Tangerine racing oil relief valve, it helped but not at 2K rpm.
The thing that I also can't understand is cranking pressure is only about 7psi even with the plugs out.
This is an unexpected turn of events. Arrrgh!