2270cc type 4 EFI Turbo: my first engine build

[Eddie010]

Did you use casesavers for those 10mm studs, and if so which ones.

I used the 10mm type 1 studs as through bolts to replace the 6 standard one's as an alternative to ARP case through bolts (I couldn't get any in the UK without paying £200 shipping and waiting for weeks).
Please note if you go down that road there is discussion if you should increase from the 25 ft/lb of torque or not. I went to 28~30ft/lb on the advice of a builder here, if I had to do it again I wouldn't go over 28, but I'll let you folks know if I run into any trouble or not later as a result of going higher.

For the heads studs themselves I used ARP type 4 head studs, they went straight into the case same as the OE versions.

Is interesting topic,
I have those trough bolts too, I was advised to put them on 35NM as standard, feel if the crank spins freely, then put on
40NM feel if the crank spins freely. if it doesn t put it back to 35NM, if it does leave it at 40NM

Butt what Wally wrotes makes sence also, you don t want to 'crush' the bearings, Is this because that alu will expand more than
the steel at temps wally?

Cool build by the way.

[Wally]

I agree with both: if it spins really freely cold, you will very likely be ok warm and hot as well.
These days bearings that are off in size are more worrying then a few extra lbs/ft torque imho.

Head torque overdoing it is more critical as I saw a case stud broke out an Overfly engine as they thought back in the days that Porsche heads needed Porsche torque (50Nm!!) on a type 4 case (stock is 32Nm iirc) with alu cylinders... I believe it was even the sole reason Holzapfel cast a new type 4 case with more reinforcements in that area..
I would stay on factory torque settings or very close to that unless it proves your combo looses pressure or seal. So far that never happenend to me as far as I can tell. Rigidity in the case doesn't change with a different stud is my reasoning. I only used ARP or Raceware studs because of length benefits, not really because of missing strength, but how far a stock stud (head or case) will be stable, I also don't know. You can only have experience with so many combo's as you use yourself and I haven't done them all. Yet

[Clatter]

Wow!

How did i miss this one?
Epic!
I could study these pics for hours.

Couple of ideas..
1st, look to the aftermarket for short axles and your choice of size in torsions.
With a type 4 and big trans, you’ll need more rear bar than a front-engine 944.
Additionally, you might consider uprating your front torsions to match.
A narrowed beam might have done this already?
Experience with a motorcycle at the track likely taught you well about balance at both ends.

FWIW, i did a 915 conversion in my type 3.
Here’s how i did access hatches and linkage.
I can say it does work in real life now.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewt ... &start=900
My build thread turned into more of a lifestyle blog

Top work!
Love your build..

[split1950]

I have been busy but a lot not related to the engine so I'm refraining from posting that stuff.
Got a solution sorted for my oil hard lines running to the front, we made up some new stainless pan washers and used some AN10 clamps

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Header tank for my chargecooler

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Custom Swirl pot with internal 044 pump that mounts to the front beam, need to mount the Aeromotive lift pump on it yet (thanks Steve!)

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Now the scary bit, I hated the tight bends on the lobster tails on the turbo inlet, so one brand new Borg Warner EFR goes under the knife (thanks Steve!)

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and now has a Vibrant V band on it which solves a few issues with pipework mounting and the like.
I also have the gearbox back after vapour blasting and LSD installation, the stub axles are getting 2.5mm machined off them, then with some low profile CV bolts I should have a 6mm gap to the frame horns.
Finally oil cooler mount V2, including soft mounts, let's hope I don't end up with the rule of Pi.........

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Just waiting for the laser cut guy (3mm stainless)

[Chip Birks]

I love this! Is there somewhere else to see the non engine related stuff?

[split1950]

I love this! Is there somewhere else to see the non engine related stuff?

Hi Chip,
Actually no, I suppose I could put a bit more up here focussing on the mechanical side with a bit of the car too.
I used some beefy rear torsion bars 944S2 M031 = 25.5mm, I was worried but to be honest with the weight of the trans alone (that Quaife ATB diff is very heavy) it has some sag, so think it should be OK, time will tell if what's left of my spine turns to dust when I drive it.
I had to refrain from putting the pics of the 2 Magnesium cup 1's I finally sourced yesterday....just need 2 more lol.
There's turned out to be so much custom stuff to make it fit without cutting the body.
(Your LED conversion did make it into here tho )

[Chip Birks]

I'd love to see anything you are willing to show. I think the engine is only a small part of the whole project here. The fab work you mention is exactly the stuff I'd love to see. I love the concept. Keep up the fantastic work!

[Wally]

and don't worry about the 944 M030 25,5mm bars: I have run exactly those for 10 years and they are pretty much spot on for a 400hp car with heavy trans and a type 4 engine
They are definately not too stiff, could actually maybe be a bit more, but with good gas filled dampers, its ok. With full on acceleration, you'd wish they were stiffer, but you can't have it all I suppose.
(I now run coil-overs, same story)

[split1950]

and don't worry about the 944 M030 25,5mm bars: I have run exactly those for 10 years and they are pretty much spot on for a 400hp car with heavy trans and a type 4 engine
They are definately not too stiff, could actually maybe be a bit more, but with good gas filled dampers, its ok. With full on acceleration, you'd wish they were stiffer, but you can't have it all I suppose.
(I now run coil-overs, same story)

Great to know Walter, so many people told me they are too much, but I agree with you, I expected rock hard, I'll use coilovers then and I can tune it.
I'm hoping to have more progress to show soon, recently there's been a lot of fiddling with stuff and it doesn't look like much was done, although I've spent sooo many hours in the cold garage

[split1950]

Here's the oil cooler mount V2 from the laser cutter (needs metal finishing but I couldn't wait to try it)

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Custom swirl pot (every piece was either CNC made or sheet Aluminium thank you Steve!
I still need to mount the lift pump and AN bungs to it

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Here's my custom charge cooler header tank in situ

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BW Turbo with the V band welded on - super tight but it fits (just)

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Got stub axles taken down 2.5mm to pull them inwards, with special low head 12.9 bolts got about 5~6mm gap to frame

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[split1950]

After they were cut

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I think it's OK with the 6 engine mounts I used it shouldn't move far

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[panel]

I love all your one off parts ! Such a cool build !

[split1950]

I love all your one off parts ! Such a cool build !

Thanks! It does make for slow progress though.
Hopefully it will be worth it in the end. I'd hate to look at it and think I could have done better.

[split1950]

OK guys a shout out for some help.
I am running 944S2 Aluminium rear trailing arms, but as I have a 1950 chassis top shock mounts don't exist.
I looked at the shock mount faces on the A arms and they appear to tilt the shock 10 degrees towards the outside of the car and twist them 10 degrees towards the inside of the car.

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I just looked at a pic of an IRS bug online and the twist towards the inside looks more like 45 degrees as a guess.

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I had assumed (!) you don't want the shock to twist so planned on emulating the 10 degrees there.
I think the vertical travel is a no brainer and must stay tilted out 10 degrees, if 10 degrees is correct....

My request:
Anyone with IRS bug & even better with 944S2 arms can you give me the angles of your OEM rear top shock mount?
I have laser cut a nice 10mm thick steel plate that goes on the old lever shock mounts but can't pull the trigger on drilling it for the top mount until I sort this out.....
Thanks in advance!!!

[split1950]

I have figured out my rear damper mounts and I am quite happy with how they turned out.
In the end the top angled up 10 degrees and to the rear 12 degrees to match the 944S2 arms.
I used laser cut 10mm steel plates then 6mm steel bent bits for the triangulation bars, all designed in Fusion360.
So this is a bolt in Split Beetle rear damper and "beef it up" kit! Shame I only needed one!

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In Steel (and after welding and I added a gusset). The top 30mm diameter piece for the damper bolt is only tacked until I get those (need the whole car fully loaded first) in case I need it longer or something to correctly position the top of the damper inboard / outboard

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The damper leans towards the front about 10 degrees but is well clear of driveshaft and so on.
Next I'm remaking my dry sump tank, done in Fusion360 too.....

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With baffles like this

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Volume is 10 litres, so I can put about 7 in there, plus whatever is in the AN10 lines running front to back and the oil cooler up front.
I am considering a round "deaerator pre tank" maybe in the nearside wheel arch but in the oil return flow from the cooler just before the main tank to swirl out any air, but honestly by the time the oil travels from left to right 540mm and through baffles it should be OK. Someone tells me these tanks should be round, look at a 911 tank (930 for example).....