2270cc type 4 EFI Turbo: my first engine build

[split1950]

When I looked closely at my CB performance pressure HAT bases, I saw they are far from flat, there was not decent way of solving it so thanks to the magic of CAD and CNC I have an alternative, fresh back from the anodiser today

IMG-20210810-WA0001.jpg

I decided to put an O ring between the base and TB, not sure what CB intended but if I can avoid a crappy gasket I will.
I hope they work......

First I have to solve my gear linkage issue. The split bug has some cross braces inside the tunnel which stops me from running it along the bottom like I could on my later chassis I used on my last car (bug@5speed shifter), so I have some nice needle bearing UJs to make a Z link, and I mounted a shift rod guide the same as VW used at the front in the back, hopefully by the end of Sunday I'll have it done, but so far access inside the tunnel has been tricky to say the least, let's see. I refuse to cut holes in the tunnel unless there is absolutely no other way.

[Steve Arndt]

You could probably sell those on samba. Worth posting an add and checking interest.

[split1950]

Exhaust system purge welded and 100% finished up to the turbo. Still need to decide on a silencer solution (later).

IMG-20210816-WA0006.jpeg

Also, my tinwares are finished too.

IMG-20210816-WA0001.jpg

If I can solve my shift rod Z link I'm gonna be happy!

[rubenski]

That exhaust looks killer!

Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-A515F met Tapatalk

[Wally]

Exhaust system purge welded and 100% finished up to the turbo.

Nice job!

[madmike]

nice work , you should be proud

[split1950]

There's some hours in it for sure, and cutting stainless is a pain, but I am really happy with the result. I think the CAD mock up / model really made it easier to figure out. I can't wait to hear it used in anger!

[split1950]

Finally got around to fixing the small oil leak on the crankcase joins.....I previously used Permatex but after only an hour of cam break in / bench running it seemed to almost drip out in one spot, causing a "weep" enough to drip once a fortnight. Not good for my OCD.
I saw Jake (Raby) talking about RTVs so I've split it and sealed the case halves with "Renozil" +300C RTV and some Curil T for the cylinders to case.
I also swapped out my OE case through bolts for some 10mm CSP Chromoly type 1 head studs allowing me to torque up to 30 ft/lb.
Taking a look inside the cam break in had worked well so there's another positive of all this.
I had never been happy with the head to inlet manifold mating surface after the inlet porting (the width was thin) so welded

IMG-20211127-WA0005.jpeg

and got my buddy Steve to resurface them like this

IMG-20211203-WA0000.jpg

I obviously stripped and cleaned them after this, will finish assembling the top end tomorrow with new copper sealing rings.
Should get a good seal under boost now!
Hopefully soon I'll get my 915 trans back with the Quaife ATB / LSD

20211111_144326.jpg

Then there's these.....spot the difference?

IMG-20211007-WA0004.jpg

IMG-20211007-WA0000.jpg

[Wally]

.... allowing me to torque up to 30 ft/lb.

I would be extremely carefull with that.. Original is 25 ft/lb and more torque could lead to (too) smal(ler) bearing gaps with all possible problems originating from that.
Better studs doesn't need to be torqued higher, just because you could imho. I use better studs just for more stability, but torque them to original specs.
Just my 2 cents of course.

Very nice machining!

[split1950]

Hmmmm yes I do see your point Walter, no going back now I don't want to disturb the sealant.
The info came from Stateside I was careful not to exceed 30 as I was a bit cautious but JC knows his stuff so ......

[Wally]

Hmmmm yes I do see your point Walter, no going back now I don't want to disturb the sealant.
The info came from Stateside I was careful not to exceed 30 as I was a bit cautious but JC knows his stuff so ......

First time I bought my ARP through bolts from LN, they said to torque to 36 # and came back from that later after I also experienced too tight and all consequences from it..
Its always confusing if you ask same question to several different tuners, you get same number of different answers haha! I hear you.

[split1950]

Yeah lol it's really hard to know what to do.
Hopefully I'll be ok as I said I'm no more than 30 which is plus 20 percent from stock.......
It rotated freely but obviously cold.
I do appreciate your comments though as you've proven your knowledge plenty!

[Eddie010]

Did you use casesavers for those 10mm studs, and if so which ones.

[split1950]

Did you use casesavers for those 10mm studs, and if so which ones.

I used the 10mm type 1 studs as through bolts to replace the 6 standard one's as an alternative to ARP case through bolts (I couldn't get any in the UK without paying £200 shipping and waiting for weeks).
Please note if you go down that road there is discussion if you should increase from the 25 ft/lb of torque or not. I went to 28~30ft/lb on the advice of a builder here, if I had to do it again I wouldn't go over 28, but I'll let you folks know if I run into any trouble or not later as a result of going higher.

For the heads studs themselves I used ARP type 4 head studs, they went straight into the case same as the OE versions.

[Eddie010]

Did you use casesavers for those 10mm studs, and if so which ones.

I used the 10mm type 1 studs as through bolts to replace the 6 standard one's as an alternative to ARP case through bolts (I couldn't get any in the UK without paying £200 shipping and waiting for weeks).
Please note if you go down that road there is discussion if you should increase from the 25 ft/lb of torque or not. I went to 28~30ft/lb on the advice of a builder here, if I had to do it again I wouldn't go over 28, but I'll let you folks know if I run into any trouble or not later as a result of going higher.

For the heads studs themselves I used ARP type 4 head studs, they went straight into the case same as the OE versions.

Sorry my bad, I thought you were talking about head studs.