74 beam on 64 split bus

PEPPE · Post by **PEPPE** » Sat Oct 05, 2002 2:07 am

i want to install a 74 bay window beam on a split bus
I read that 68-69 bay beams are a direct bolton, but what about 74 ones? it is impossible to install one of them (i have only this right now)
is some welding required? thanks, Peppe

Pillow · Post by **Pillow** » Sat Oct 05, 2002 8:11 pm

The mounting bolts do not line up. I guess you could redrill the holes where you need them though?

------------------
Adrian Pillow
'66 VW Westfalia - "Biscuit"
'67 VW Deluxe Westfakia - "Dino" - FS
'79 Porsche 911 SC - "Cochese" - FS

bob mrazik · Post by **bob mrazik** » Sun Oct 06, 2002 8:25 pm

don't remember all the details, but i think it goes as follows; 68 to 69 and1/2 will bolt on directly, change the trailing (??) arms (correct term ??) to the later, after 69 and 1/2 arms and now you can use later model disc brakes with you splitty.

planning on doing this myself.

correct me if i got something wrong here.

bob

Pillow · Post by **Pillow** » Mon Oct 07, 2002 7:21 am

You will still be 2" too high. The bay beams need Albatross adjusters to drop them back down to earth for a level ride.

------------------
Adrian Pillow
'66 VW Westfalia - "Biscuit"
'67 VW Deluxe Westfakia - "Dino" - FS
'79 Porsche 911 SC - "Cochese" - FS

Zen · Post by **Zen** » Tue Oct 08, 2002 11:38 am

While we're talking about swapping beams . . . I was recently given two bay window buses. One is a rusted out but mostly complete (except for the engine and tranny) 69 and the other is a VERY solid but stripped 72. In my opinion the 72 is worth putting back together (just has a little surface rust here and there and a few very minor dings), but the front beam is gone . . . so will the one off the 69 fit it? From what I gather from this post the bolt pattern changed in 69 1/2? So if it's an early 69 it won't work but if it's a late 69 it will?

------------------
Zen Hendricks

"You can observe a lot by watching." -- Yogi Berra
Scenic City Volks Folks, Chattanooga, TN -- Where Air Meets Water! http://www.volksfolks.org

Post by **Marc** » Wed Oct 09, 2002 7:09 am

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:<HR>Originally posted by Zen:
From what I gather from this post the bolt pattern changed in 69 1/2? So if it's an early 69 it won't work but if it's a late 69 it will?

<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Sounds right to me. By "gone" do you mean the `72 has nothing?
You'll want to put on disk brakes, if you have to buy some step up to the `73-`79 pieces, they'll be easier to find in good condition. If the master cylinder ever needs replacement get the `73 part also, since the reservoir for the `71/`72 is obsolete and you'll be screwed if you need one.

Zen · Post by **Zen** » Wed Oct 09, 2002 10:58 am

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:<HR>Originally posted by Marc:
By "gone" do you mean the `72 has nothing?<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Yep. It's sitting on blocks and the entire beam has been removed. The steering box is there, but that's all that's left of the front suspension and steering. I've already picked up the 69 (the body is in BAD shape, but it had lots of good parts and is serving as a temporary storage building). The first order of business is to at least get the 72 rolling so I get it home before the guy has it hauled to the crusher. Hopefully the 69 beam will at least do that . . . getting it on the road would be at least 2 or 3 years down my project list.

Thanks for the info Marc! Oh, and thanks for the tip you gave someone else a while back about using an m12 tap to remove a starter bushing . . . I did that the other day and it worked like a charm!

------------------
Zen Hendricks

"You can observe a lot by watching." -- Yogi Berra
Scenic City Volks Folks, Chattanooga, TN -- Where Air Meets Water! http://www.volksfolks.org

type2guy · Post by **type2guy** » Wed Oct 09, 2002 11:05 am

One of the holes for the 74 beam will fit your splittie I think. You'll have to make new mounting holes for the others, or just weld the beam in place.

I've seen an early ('69) bus with later bay window beam welded onto it. It drove great.

I've got a '69 beam that I had planned to install in one of my splitties. I'm still on the fence though. Main reason is that it SEEMS to me that by intalling adjusters to lower it the 2" you need for it to get back to stock height, you would be making a stiffer and less comfertable ride. REally seems like it'd defeat the purpose of upgrading to the newer stuff.

This is just theory. I've spoken with one person who's done the conversion and he said his ride was very good. Most other people say lowering a beam with adjusters will make it ride rough.

So what do you guys think?

And why isn't there lowered spindles for bay window busses?

PEPPE · Post by **PEPPE** » Thu Oct 10, 2002 7:53 am

i was thinking about installing the 74 beam and lowering it at the same time with adjusters or simply cutting/welding it.
i understood that the holes do not fit, except one (maybe)
BUT... the other holes can be done or not? i do not like the idea of welding the beam in.
if there is a hole the beam will be in the correcty position? it will be easy to get the correct caster? it will be better to install it a little more angled to achieve a bit of caster?
i LIKE stiff ride, so no problem about that.
i will mantain the large 5 hole wheel pattern with the use of a spacer/adaptor made. 15mm thickness of iron should be ok?
thanks, Peppe

Pillow · Post by **Pillow** » Fri Oct 11, 2002 7:49 am

>Main reason is that it SEEMS to me that by intalling adjusters to lower it the 2" you need for it to get back to stock height, you would be making a stiffer and less comfertable ride.<

The ride will be exactly the same. All you are doing is moving the torsion bars in relation to the beam. Same ride different location.

Now if there are bump stops of some sort be careful that the suspension does not bottom out too soon. Cut the snubbers or whatever it takes?

Shocks might be an issue since the travel distance is compressed. Might have to run the Toxic shocks for lowered vehicles, or crossreference a KYB shorter shock from something else, I am sure a customer support line can help if you can supply the max and min ranges of travel.

------------------
Adrian Pillow
'66 VW Westfalia - "Biscuit"
'67 VW Deluxe Westfakia - "Dino" - FS
'79 Porsche 911 SC - "Cochese" - FS

type2guy · Post by **type2guy** » Fri Oct 11, 2002 9:50 am

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:<HR>Originally posted by Pillow:
The ride will be exactly the same. All you are doing is moving the torsion bars in relation to the beam. Same ride different location.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Why is it that using lowered spindles over adjusters in early busses and bugs is prefered? Everyone always says the adjusters make the ride rough. I have no experience myself.

I thought the adjusters actually ended up making the ride stiffer or something.

biggraham · Post by **biggraham** » Sat Jan 25, 2003 1:30 am

Has anyone drilled a post 71 beam to fit in a Spitty yet?

Bugly · Post by **Bugly** » Sat Feb 01, 2003 10:07 pm

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:<HR>Originally posted by type2guy:
One of the holes for the 74 beam will fit your splittie I think. You'll have to make new mounting holes for the others, or just weld the beam in place.

I've seen an early ('69) bus with later bay window beam welded onto it. It drove great.

I've got a '69 beam that I had planned to install in one of my splitties. I'm still on the fence though. Main reason is that it SEEMS to me that by intalling adjusters to lower it the 2" you need for it to get back to stock height, you would be making a stiffer and less comfertable ride. REally seems like it'd defeat the purpose of upgrading to the newer stuff.

This is just theory. I've spoken with one person who's done the conversion and he said his ride was very good. Most other people say lowering a beam with adjusters will make it ride rough.

So what do you guys think?

And why isn't there lowered spindles for bay window busses?<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

There are bay window style lowered spindles. They are made by Franklin's VW Werks and they are made to either accept type 3 or bus disc brakes and are a very high quality unit, I think they are about 500 bucks a set, but that is mostly for the machining and welding involved.