T4 Into T3 Build Questions - With Reference Links for Future Swaps

[nogoodwithusernames]

T1 HD singles it is then, I have a low mileage set here so those will be press-ganged into use.
Valves installed in one head and rockers set in because I could and like seeing things come together. Will be using the T4 store rocker spacers and CB 911 style adjusters. (when they get back in stock)

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And of course the mandatory questions:

How much do I need to mill off the inside of the rocker arms to make room for 911 style adjusters?

What grit should I hone the cylinders to? (Using stock P&Ls with new rings and hone.)

[twodollardoug]

If I remember correctly I milled mine until It fit inside a 10mm wrench. Maybe someone who has done them recently can chime in. And then I countersunk them also. I would also recommend using genuine porsche adjusters.

[wreck]

I think the general measurement is 1.5mm or .060" . I also countersunk the arm slightly as well . Sorry can give an advice on the grit for honing , I get mine done by a machinist . I've done it years ago by hand but can't remember what I used .

[Clatter]

Here's a post where Ray Greenwood gave me some great advice on honing. viewtopic.php?f=1&t=151254
I went and bought two dingle-ball hones from Brush Research, but have yet to use them.
If you have an automotive machinist handy, it's kind of hard to justify the
Expense, work, mess, and substandard results vs. having a pro shop with a Sunnen just touch them up.
Depends upon who you have available.
I bought mine because my local hero retired.

If you haven't ordered spacers already, get a set of the bigger rocker shaft mount studs while you're at it.
Might be overkill for your mild build, but there's good reasons to like them, and not expensive.

.060 is right for a starting point clearancing for swivel feet.
Want to look at the oil hole that runs to the adjuster screw, and not have it open up to air.
There's usually lots of room, but keep an eye out.
I have taken more for geometry reasons; depends how it all ends up fitting out.

On that note, something I do is take a small triangle jeweler's file and make a tiny passage in the rocker's adjuster threads.
Take and file an oil groove, just enough to connect the oil passage, and aim a tiny squirt into the ball of the swivel foot..
If you shim the rockers on the shafts nice and tight, then there should be good pressure to oil the swivels.

Shelter in place = build a motor!

Er, wait.. Mom's home here, too..

[nogoodwithusernames]

That should be manageable, are they hardened or can I throw them on our little mill at work?

Look what showed up in the mail today? One step closer to the dark side. (Full gasket set not shown but also showed up)

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HD studs and solid spacers both were on the order. And unfortunately OEM Porsche swivels are not to be had, that would almost double what I've spent on this build so far

So CB 911 style or stock? Aircooled.net sells individual of I think CB brand swivels so if I'm not happy with one or two in the set I can always swap them out?

What have others done for injectors with stock TB and runners? Should I pull them from my T1 D-jet? Or use modern injectors and weld on a fuel rail bracket?

I was hoping this weekend was going to be nice weather so I could pull the T1 out and mockup the engine bar and fan boot adapter pieces but looks like that's out the window. Tomorrow is my day off work (Essential industry, I'm pretty sure you guys all want your beer, wine, and food ) so let's see how much I can get done in between rain and whatnot.

[nogoodwithusernames]

Alright productive day off, had to hit up the local coffee joint since they reopened today during this whole COVID pandemic. Gotta support the local guys.
Got the rest of the T1 motor out (a short block will slide right out from under on some cardboard ) and put the T4 case and some tins in to figure out where things need to go.

My main question after this is... How am I supposed to get a boot adapter in here?? The boot is already smushed up against the T4 fan housing. If I were to get an adapter mounted onto it I'd have to squish like 1-1.5"??

I'm planning on mounting the LS coils up under the deck near the engine mount bits on the body, keep them tucked out of the way nice and clean. I was thinking of running fuel lines up through the old charcoal vent tubing holes in the body instead of the breastplate tin as well, again try to keep this thing as clean as possible. I will probably pull off the black tar board as well to clean up the front area. Gotta shorten the oil fill of course, though it looks like the TPS will fit under the engine cover.

Since it's supposedly raining the rest of the weekend I saved the inside stuff for that, finish getting T1 HD springs installed in the other head, install the HD studs and get the spacers fitted. Start tapping the case. Finish balancing the rods, and make up the end to end balancing setup similar to clatter's in his thread. See how things go. Need to clean up my workbench too, it's a mess right now.

Anyway here are some photos y'all. Enjoy!

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[nogoodwithusernames]

Fruit of the days labor:

Rods are all balanced. They're all the same weight and end to end is pretty dang close without spending a couple days going crazy

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Valves are installed, and solid rockers setup with .005" play. (1-4 not indicative of cylinder, just there to keep track of what goes where.)

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[raygreenwood]

By the way...great looking build!

Back a page....those nuts with the threaded inserts are for the oil pump...and they are the correct type to use. You should use them if they are good.

The they are inserted because it creates a better thread fit and the insert slightly distorts when you torque them down at the rather low torque numbers they use....and grip the threads tighter. A low level form of locking nut. They worked well and I also use locktite on them for the oil pump.

If the pistons measure good on the skirts...this will be a nice little engine. Whose/what valves and guides did you end up using? Ray

[nogoodwithusernames]

Ray thanks for the feedback.
I'll make sure to keep track of those special inserted hex nuts.

I left the valves and guides up to the shop doing the heads. They had guides in stock but they had to order valves. Intake valves had I think "SI" or something similar etched on them, not sure of the ex valves.

I had seen in one of your posts which of course I can't find now, the recommended breather setup for a stock/stockish motor. I'd like to try and follow that so would you happen to have a link or remember where you may have posted that for me to narrow down my search?

[raygreenwood]

Ray thanks for the feedback.
I'll make sure to keep track of those special inserted hex nuts.

I left the valves and guides up to the shop doing the heads. They had guides in stock but they had to order valves. Intake valves had I think "SI" or something similar etched on them, not sure of the ex valves.

I had seen in one of your posts which of course I can't find now, the recommended breather setup for a stock/stockish motor. I'd like to try and follow that so would you happen to have a link or remember where you may have posted that for me to narrow down my search?

You are keeping the stock plenum, runners, TB and aircleaner assembly right? And....using the stock oil filler tower breathing box right? And still have the PCV tubes in the heads?

Then except for having a splitter fitting which doubles as a flame trap used on 411/412 and 914....you have teh complete setup.

I will put a link together. Ray

[Clatter]

Nice!

Should be a sweet little motor..

I wouldn't hesitate to try a set of the CB swivel feet on that one.

[nogoodwithusernames]

Some progress photos to share.

304 stainless engine hanger, and it's little brother Cardboard "Mocky" Mockup.

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Had a bit of a "whoopsie" and had to chop up the 914 mounting bracket and weld it back together with new bolt spacing.

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I also forgot what a royal pain in the backside drilling stainless by hand but I didn't have the T3 hanger bolt dimensions yesterday when I was making it in the shop at work. But got the ends drilled and test fit it all. Success! After I pulled the case and hanger out I spent some time with degreaser and a brush cleaning up the engine compartment and who would have guessed, but it's actually blue in there!

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Also chopped down an oil fill tower, used the worse of the two I had just in case I messed it up but looks like it should be just about perfect.

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[Eddie010]

Fruit of the days labor:

Valves are installed, and solid rockers setup with .005" play. (1-4 not indicative of cylinder, just there to keep track of what goes where.)

IMG_7224.jpg
IMG_7220.jpg

I have a question is that the recommended side play for the solid rockers...
Mine are a bit loose, so searching for the correct play.

Thanks in advance...

Ps Very nice engine hanger

Edgar

[nogoodwithusernames]

Hey there, the type 4 store where I got mine from recommends no more than .006”. Their set you have to sand/file the aluminum spacer till you get the correct gap, but I don’t see any problem with adding a shim in there, like T1 solid rockers, if you have too much gap.
Cheers!

Fruit of the days labor:

Valves are installed, and solid rockers setup with .005" play. (1-4 not indicative of cylinder, just there to keep track of what goes where.)

IMG_7224.jpg
IMG_7220.jpg

I have a question is that the recommended side play for the solid rockers...
Mine are a bit loose, so searching for the correct play.

Thanks in advance...

Ps Very nice engine hanger

Edgar

[Eddie010]

Hey there, the type 4 store where I got mine from recommends no more than .006”. Their set you have to sand/file the aluminum spacer till you get the correct gap, but I don’t see any problem with adding a shim in there, like T1 solid rockers, if you have too much gap.
Cheers!

Fruit of the days labor:

Valves are installed, and solid rockers setup with .005" play. (1-4 not indicative of cylinder, just there to keep track of what goes where.)

IMG_7224.jpg
IMG_7220.jpg

I have a question is that the recommended side play for the solid rockers...
Mine are a bit loose, so searching for the correct play.

Thanks in advance...

Ps Very nice engine hanger

Edgar

Thanks for that information..

Edgar