'71 Super Beetle Autocross Build

[4agedub]

Do they do anything to reduce the aerodynamic lift on the roof?

I honestly could not feel any difference, the car felt exactly the same. We only see around 115mph on this specific track... maybe at faster speeds the lift becomes more evident. The data logger saw an increase of top speed.

[ChadH]

It was a busy autocross weekend, both setting up the course, and racing, so not a ton of progress. I did manage to get the steering box cleaned up, painted, packed it with grease, and the adjustment feels good on the bench. I also pressed the old bushings out of the control arms and got them painted too (no pictures.) Pretty boring and menial stuff, but It has to get done.

The big 1" socket adapter in the background fits the large adjustment screw on the steering box perfectly, FWIW

[ChadH]

I had a two day autocross this weekend, so not a lot of progress, but here's more from the last week or so too keep this thread going.

Las week, I "divorced" the stock strut housing from the steering knuckle. One side just required some enthusiasm with a 5-lb sledge hammer.



The other was more stubborn. A day soaking in PB blaster, heat, and hammering wasn't enough. I finally had to fire up the air chisel. It finally let go. I'm betting this rust-prone design is why VW changed the strut design after just a few years.



Some light sanding of the rusty areas and more Hammertone has the knuckles looking pretty good.



..And, I received my Topline Maxx Extreme struts today (with 100 in-lb springs.)

[ChadH]

Back to bodywork..this time the roof. Someone in the past had walked on the roof, or car surfed (a la Teen Wolf), and left a bunch of small foot sized dents A little bit of fill in lots of areas was needed.





Got some 2K on, but haven't started block sanding yet. I think I'll find more low spots when I get to it.

[ChadH]

Kind of quiet here - so I thought I'd post why I didn't get anything accomplished this week

My oldest is getting fast(ish) in his Kart, and has been running about mid-pack at the local autocrosses (beating both me and my wife in the process). I tried lowering the gearing a little, and the last race had a long-fast straight. The result was valve float and bent valves on the mildly warmed over HF Predator engine. So, we grabbed a new engine ($100 with coupon), and are swapping some of the goodies over from the old engine.







Hopefully back to bodywork soon.

[hardrada]

I am watching with interest.

[ChadH]

Don't worry, I'm still at it, pictures of bodywork get a little boring.

FWIW, I bought the front disk upgrade kit from Topline. They're not exotic, but will certainly be better than drums. I also found Hawk makes autocross/track compound pad for them. I'm planning on getting those too,once I get farther along.

[ChadH]

We'll, It's been a long hot summer, without a ton of progress, but weather is cooling off, so I'm back on the job. Some photos of my intermittent progress over the last few months.

I cut out some of the inner door panels to save a little weight, and make poping out dents a little easier. The driver door appears to be stock, the passenger door I think was a junkyard replacement. It had a heavy side impact beam that I also removed.



I cut off the sheet metal that clamps the carpet and headliner from around the door frames. Certainly, this doesn't save much weight, but I like to use the cutter and grinder.



The driver side door is as smooth as I can get it now.



The passenger door is in pretty good shape. Still needs 2K primer and block sanding.



The rear quarter panel has some damage, and cruddy bondo work that's cracking. I'm trying to decided If I want to try to weld in a replacement panel, or just remove the bondo, get the panel as straight as I can, and re-fill it. My worry with a replacement panel is that by the time I weld it in, I'll need to do just as much body work to get it to look good (I'm not an expert at some of this stuff.)

[FJCamper]

Hi Chad,

You're putting a lot of work in that 1303.

I highly recommend a small-diameter roll bar with front and rear down-bar supports -- but not for safety. The Type 1, Bugs and Ghias, flex at the floorpan just behind the driver and passenger seats. A braced "roll bar" is a terrific stiffener. You can feel the change in handling.

Another handling asset is a Kafer bar. It really stiffens up the rear suspension mounts and allows your tires to keep putting the power to the pavement.

These projects start with economy in mind and get out of hand. Fancy brakes, and racing pad compounds will not cut much from your times, but lightening the car will. Use Lexan everywhere but the windshield.

Lowering will compensate for a heavier front swaybar. Just be advised Super's are understeering handfulls.

The factory changes in the front strut design was for some handling improvements. Long story. We just swapped out our early '73 strut assemblies for 74's on our road racing 1303.

I wish you all the racing luck in the world.

FJC

[ChadH]

.all on the long to-do list

[ChadH]

Any hopes of salvaging my quarter panel were quickly dashed once I started removing the hack-job bondo. Filler was 1/2" thick, and the underlying sheet metal is a mess. I literally ground off 1 gallon of bondo!! I have a new quarter panel ordered, and will give some heavy duty bodywork a go. Whatever happens, It can't turn out worse that what is there now.

[Piledriver]

Naaaa that will buff out...
given hours of hammer and dolly work.

Try the ESAB easy-grind MIG wire. Its made to be worked, not as hard as typical MIG wire after welding.
The only thing much softer/easier to work post-weld is gas welding or braze, but ~nothing sticks to brazing rod very well.
(nothing=paint, bondo etc)

[ChadH]

Awesome - I'll find some! These are the little tips I need.

[Piledriver]

You might be ahead with a new door vertical B pillar to the floor, JY is best.

[ChadH]

Hmm. I ordered from MAM. It looks like it has the pillar, facing the door, up to where the striker is. The inside portion, I should hopefully be able to beat into submission (although it may be ugly), and make a structurally sound pillar. I'm just looking for the exterior to be in decent shape, and not a full resto...and to keep costs down where I can. I'll definitely post all the trials and tribulations.