hall sensor testing ok on bench but not in car
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Re: hall sensor testing ok on bench but not in car
i think i will do that just to be safe
thanks
thanks
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Re: hall sensor testing ok on bench but not in car
wirred it up as per ms extra pages except with no
pull up resistor and i am getting rpm signal on tuner studio.
it's not a great signal but it's a start
thanks for everyones help
pull up resistor and i am getting rpm signal on tuner studio.
it's not a great signal but it's a start
thanks for everyones help
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Re: hall sensor testing ok on bench but not in car
I'm pretty shure you have control over the DIY sensor marioMarioVelotta wrote:
The sensor should not require a pullup as it is built in.

but it says nothing about built in pull up on their website?
http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/hall ... p-479.html
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Re: hall sensor testing ok on bench but not in car
the hall sensor is from mario
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Re: hall sensor testing ok on bench but not in car
yes ok
i thought these were the same units?
i thought these were the same units?
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Re: hall sensor testing ok on bench but not in car
i was reading this thread last night .
and it says that marios hall sensors are the same as diy
and that they have pullup built in
http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic ... 5&start=45
and it says that marios hall sensors are the same as diy
and that they have pullup built in
http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic ... 5&start=45
- Piledriver
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Re: hall sensor testing ok on bench but not in car
Is it running yet?
Addendum to Newtons first law:
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
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Re: hall sensor testing ok on bench but not in car
not yet i have only got about half hour a day to play with it .
it sounded like it wanted to start today then backfired then the battery started going flat .
so i am going to go through all my settings again and make sure i have the leads on right (106b coil )
and charge the battery and try agin tomorrow
it sounded like it wanted to start today then backfired then the battery started going flat .
so i am going to go through all my settings again and make sure i have the leads on right (106b coil )
and charge the battery and try agin tomorrow
- Piledriver
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Re: hall sensor testing ok on bench but not in car
Good idea, a low battery will cause weird at the worst possible times.
Addendum to Newtons first law:
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
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- Posts: 208
- Joined: Tue Jan 01, 2008 9:31 pm
Re: hall sensor testing ok on bench but not in car
[URL=http://s768.photobucket.com/user/d ... .jpg[/img]
[URL=http://s768.photobucket.com/user/d ... .jpg[/img]
[URL=http://s768.photobucket.com/user/d ... .jpg[/img]
ddoes anything look wrong here
also i have the 106b coil it has on it A,B,C,D,
the golf firing order is 1,3,4,2
the type 4 is 1,4,3,2
so A should be 1
B - 4
C - 3
D - 2
i think thats right
[URL=http://s768.photobucket.com/user/d ... .jpg[/img]
[URL=http://s768.photobucket.com/user/d ... .jpg[/img]
ddoes anything look wrong here
also i have the 106b coil it has on it A,B,C,D,
the golf firing order is 1,3,4,2
the type 4 is 1,4,3,2
so A should be 1
B - 4
C - 3
D - 2
i think thats right
- Piledriver
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- Joined: Sat Feb 16, 2002 12:01 am
Re: hall sensor testing ok on bench but not in car
I suspect A&C fire together, same for B&D, but I don't have one of those coils.
If that is the case, (fire them in test mode) they can only be 180 out or out of time.
Make sure they go to the right cylinder pairs in any case.
Should be able to check timing cranking, set for 0 or 10btdc, easiest on starter to pull plugs.(pull the injector fuse too)
Make certain the coil doesn't get warm sitting there key on
If so, dwell polarity backwards, some coil don't live long.
Not all logic driven coils are "smart". (self protect)
Have you adjusted the input amp?
(i assume the uS tach inputs are adjustable).
If you ever suspect you have fuel fouled/wet the plugs, its best to pop them out and clean with a shot of carb cleaner and crank for ~20 seconds w/injector fuse pulled.
Too much fuel is ~worse than not enough for first start, as if you foul the plugs you will probably kill the battery before it starts. Sneak up on it by tweaking reqfuel only at first, once you find a working number you can multiply the VE table and divide the reqfuel by same % until they are both in a sane range.
On recent MS2E ~100 for idle range gives good resolution, IIRC the max VW# is a 16 bit int, but probably won't be over 300 if idle is 100 unless boosted
(Once the hard limit was 255 like MS1, so only 8 bit resolution, I'm pretty sure that's ancient history now)
VE numbers in that table don't need or want to to be related to actual meatspace VE %
They are only for load calcs, more digits=more resolution within reason.
The reqfuel gets pretty small with big VE numbers though, they really need a divide reqfuelx10 option
Turn off WUE, ASE and accels at first (set everything for 100%)
Leave the accels at least off until you have a reasonable VE table.
Make certain your MAP sensor is working as expected and connected.
(sounds silly, but suck on the hose)
If that is the case, (fire them in test mode) they can only be 180 out or out of time.
Make sure they go to the right cylinder pairs in any case.
Should be able to check timing cranking, set for 0 or 10btdc, easiest on starter to pull plugs.(pull the injector fuse too)
Make certain the coil doesn't get warm sitting there key on
If so, dwell polarity backwards, some coil don't live long.
Not all logic driven coils are "smart". (self protect)
Have you adjusted the input amp?
(i assume the uS tach inputs are adjustable).
If you ever suspect you have fuel fouled/wet the plugs, its best to pop them out and clean with a shot of carb cleaner and crank for ~20 seconds w/injector fuse pulled.
Too much fuel is ~worse than not enough for first start, as if you foul the plugs you will probably kill the battery before it starts. Sneak up on it by tweaking reqfuel only at first, once you find a working number you can multiply the VE table and divide the reqfuel by same % until they are both in a sane range.
On recent MS2E ~100 for idle range gives good resolution, IIRC the max VW# is a 16 bit int, but probably won't be over 300 if idle is 100 unless boosted
(Once the hard limit was 255 like MS1, so only 8 bit resolution, I'm pretty sure that's ancient history now)
VE numbers in that table don't need or want to to be related to actual meatspace VE %
They are only for load calcs, more digits=more resolution within reason.
The reqfuel gets pretty small with big VE numbers though, they really need a divide reqfuelx10 option
Turn off WUE, ASE and accels at first (set everything for 100%)
Leave the accels at least off until you have a reasonable VE table.
Make certain your MAP sensor is working as expected and connected.
(sounds silly, but suck on the hose)
Last edited by Piledriver on Sat Jan 30, 2016 3:24 am, edited 1 time in total.
Addendum to Newtons first law:
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
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- Joined: Tue Jan 01, 2008 9:31 pm
Re: hall sensor testing ok on bench but not in car
i am only ignition on microsquirt and still runing carbs .
i thought i would get the ignition done first then fuel latter on
thanks for the help
i thought i would get the ignition done first then fuel latter on
thanks for the help
- Piledriver
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- Joined: Sat Feb 16, 2002 12:01 am
Re: hall sensor testing ok on bench but not in car
Gotcha, verifying the coil temp and output pairs in test mode/setting the timing with plugs out etc is still a good first step.
Addendum to Newtons first law:
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
-
- Posts: 208
- Joined: Tue Jan 01, 2008 9:31 pm
Re: hall sensor testing ok on bench but not in car
the 106b i had it wrong
A & D fire together and C & B fire together
as the golf firring order is 1,3,4,2,
so 1,4 & 2,3 fire together in the golf
in the type 4 it's 1,3 & 2,4
and it started straight up
i ran it for a few minutes .
just have to fix up my timing map
A & D fire together and C & B fire together
as the golf firring order is 1,3,4,2,
so 1,4 & 2,3 fire together in the golf
in the type 4 it's 1,3 & 2,4
and it started straight up
i ran it for a few minutes .
just have to fix up my timing map
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- Posts: 208
- Joined: Tue Jan 01, 2008 9:31 pm
Re: hall sensor testing ok on bench but not in car
i was going through the ignition options/wheel decoder settings and i am not sure about the
fixed advance setting for my setup
(36 to 1 wheel/ hall sensor /106b coil wasted spark)
is it supose to be , user table or fixed timing.
also where do i set the trigger wheel eror(its a few degrees out )
fixed advance setting for my setup
(36 to 1 wheel/ hall sensor /106b coil wasted spark)
is it supose to be , user table or fixed timing.
also where do i set the trigger wheel eror(its a few degrees out )