All the 1.8T guys use them as replacements as they have a pile of valves in their complex PCV system due to having to deal with boost
(1.8Ts also have a cute little intentional boost LEAK bit, a venturi vacuum generator for the brakes)
Addendum to Newtons first law:
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
All the 1.8T guys use them as replacements as they have a pile of valves in their complex PCV system due to having to deal with boost
(1.8Ts also have a cute little intentional boost LEAK bit, a venturi vacuum generator for the brakes)
Piledriver, you make a pretty good point. What size and how many do you have? I too get items from US Plastic from time to time, however in the valves you have shown they only go up to 3/8. Maybe with that type of positive seal a large hose is not required as when just venting to atmosphere/chamber.
Just doing some simple math on the nominal sizes 2 3/8" valves (the biggest referenced in your link) yields the same area as a single 1/2" valve, maybe this is all overkill. I guess it's simple/cheap enough to experiment with.
Frank,
If you are still monitoring this thread, is your breather the standard one offered by latest rage, or is it a true Porsche unit that has just been chromed, or possibly something else?
3/8" should provide plenty of flow, you should find that the rings seal a LOT better with some vacuum behind them.
Likely to get better over time...
I have a vacuum "break" going INto the 3/4 rocker box through another check valve, 2 in series w/3mm restriction, pulls from air cleaner/idle air plumbing, limits case vacuum to <3in Hg below ambient while sweeping any standing oil out of the 3/4 side rocker box.
If you have huge blowby, that needs to be fixed before you are going to really make this or really any sort of setup work well.
The original implementation of this was used on the Pile 914 with CIS, using the CIS meters small pressure drop as the vacuum source, (more load, more vacuum) no restriction, huge hose.
After running it for ~30K miles the worn out rings and bores had an almost perfect seal with no blowby. The were garbage at first (sweep the floor ~all used parts motor) so I used that "worst case" setup as the test platform.
Addendum to Newtons first law:
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
Thanks Piledriver.
I'm still sorting out which way I want to go.
I've found that these 12v air pumps pull right at 4" hg when supplied with 12v and can be pulled down to 3 with 9v. The way a lot of guys using these setups are plumbing them is pulling from the valve covers (V8s) and going to a catch tank to slow and separate the oil/air, then to the pump which exhausts to atmosphere. Since these things are a dime a dozen in the pick a part yards the over all cost is about the same either way.
I do also like the valves you shared, however if i do those i will likely run 4 3/8s valves 2 in each cover, T that into one 1/2" hose per side and run those to the breather box like Frank has shown.
On the 3/4 side, my plan is to run a drain from the valve cover/head back to my deep sump. At one time I had found a check valve that required virtually no pressure to un-seat essentially working like a trap door in a oil sump on a v8 to allow the oil to drain back but not allow sump oil to go up to 3/4 in a right hand turn.
Don't suck on 3/4 valve cover, windage will fill it up with oil.
Addendum to Newtons first law:
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
Right, If i put a vacuum pump on it, it will likely start out just on the filler and expand to other areas as needed. I have an EFI case so I can't use the fuel pump location, which really only leaves the 1/2 cover on this engine. Next spring I want to start on my spare engine which will have a few things this one doesn't have; windage tray, fuel pump holes for venting the case and I'm going to consider venting the case over the 1/3 rods.
Since my last post I took some time and sketched up a mini in-line sump trap. Essentially it would be a piece of square tubing with a trap door inside. AN fittings on each end. This would go inline b/w the 3/4 valve cover and a 1.5 qt sump to help oil drain, which is all together another topic.
So I just built a 2387 with fuel injection. Runs great. Currently I'm venting both valve covers and the filler to a bugpack oil breather. After driving it hard for a few hours I have oil sprayed all around the breather. I'm looking into venting it differently. I want to use a oil breather can with baffling. Install check valves. After reading all these replies, what is the best breather configuration? Should I Vent valve cover cylinders 1/2 only and oil filler to breather can with a check valve in both hoses? So don't vent cylinders 3/4, just keep it sealed? I'm trying to fix this messy oil problem so I'm going to be changing a few other things as well. I was running valvoline vr1 20-50 which I found out is to heavy and could have caused some of the oil spray. Thinking of changing to a 10-30. Also this engine is in a sandrail so the engine leans more forward than in a bug and I had the oil topped to the top line on dip sick, so I considered running less oil down to the half way point. Any other suggestions I can try I'm willing to do. I also did a leak down test to make sure I'm not leaking past my rings and that checked back ok. So it's just positive crank case pressure and possible crank whip.
A big part of making it work is a good air-oil separator.
Does wonders, and if "heated" it doesn't load up with vaseline and is ~zero maintenance.
I stuff 2 SS woven pot scrubbers in the T4 breather chimney (T1 equivalent would be in the gen stand base)
This was a "Bob Hoover" approved mod, bless him.
Addendum to Newtons first law:
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
That's a great idea, I am going to take my gen stand off tomorrow and add the SS woven pot scrubbers and at the same time I wanted to verify that the oil baffle plate is installed in the right direction. I actually think it is backwards and in the wrong direction. I planned on installing that oil separator in a higher position and connecting the oil fill vent and valve cover 1/2 with these http://www.ebay.com/itm/301329390497?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT
inline check valves. I'm trying to find an oil with high zinc and in 5w-30 if you have any suggestions. Would you recommend venting the crank case any different?
That's a great idea, I am going to take my gen stand off tomorrow and add the SS woven pot scrubbers and at the same time I wanted to verify that the oil baffle plate is installed in the right direction. I actually think it is backwards and in the wrong direction. I planned on installing that oil separator in a higher position and connecting the oil fill vent and valve cover 1/2 with these http://www.ebay.com/itm/301329390497?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT
inline check valves. I'm trying to find an oil with high zinc and in 5w-30 if you have any suggestions. Would you recommend venting the crank case any different?
For a 5W-30 with proper zddp the only thing that comes to mind is Valvoline VR-1.
I usually run 5w-40 Rotella T6 synthetic, but I ran the Valvoline dino oil for awhile.
For initial breakin I ran Rotella HD30.
On a year round DD its essential to have a "hot" air/oil separator to prevent vaseline plugging.
Addendum to Newtons first law:
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
I think a "hot" air/oil separator is one that runs hot enough to keep the oil hot and liquid.
I'd describe "Vaseline plugging" as oil congealing and breaking down so a Vaseline-like residue is left behind to slowly clog a breather passage, baffles, steel wool packing, etc.
Heat helps delay this, and detergent oil keeps the internal metal surfaces clean so residue doesn't stick as well, but Vaselining happens in spots wherever oil is cooled, such as in the Type 1 generator or alternator stand.
