My latest Megasquirt install

[aircooledtechguy]

Megasquirt EFI is an amazingly capable system that is 100% tuneable. It is, however a mis-understood system and many of it's detractors have either not actually used it themselves or have used a cobbled together system of mis-matched parts. After 8 year of working with Megasquirt and doing installs, I have found that buying a complete, well engineered system with a quality harness is key to success. Also having an expert tuner can't hurt either.

Some may know that I work closely with Mario Velotta from The Dub Shop for all my Megasquirt parts and kits as well as tuning help. Here's a very typical install of one of his kits. You don't need the buy the most expensive kits to get a great running car and Mario will not up-sell you things you don't need for your application.

This install was on a 914 2.0L that had factory D-jetronic. Normally we would keep it plenum based re-using much of the factory parts, but with the TB badly worn and this clients desire to clean-up the engine bay, so we went with 40mm ITBs with modern 32# injectors. Ignition is a crank triggered (36-1 wheel mounted behind the fan w/ a bracket and hall sensor) using a coil pack and 8mm plug wires. Exhaust sampling is with an Innovate LC2 All sensors are wired through custom made harnesses. These feed into a relay board. This relay board is not a piece that is 100% necessary to use, but I feel it simplifies and cleans-up the install by getting all fuses and relays used into one neat, clean compact footprint.

The install took about 2 days. This included careful removal of the old D-jet system and installation of all the components is the new system. We chose to mount this system in the fwd, right end of the rear trunk. Probably the most difficult part of the install was installing the hall sensor bracket with the engine in place. While totally doable, it was a tedious part of the job.

Mario came out to assist in the in-car tuning. The result of a 2-2.5 hour drive is smooth as silk driving from idle to red line, under light throttle or heavy. Acceleration is smooth. No bucking, burping or farting Here is a short video of the test-drive and an over view of the install.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e9rcczR ... tube_gdata

[luftvagon]

Cool! Runs awesome! I'm assuming you used Mario's CLT sensor. Where did you attach it to? How is your cold start? and cold drive-ability

[Max Welton]

Very, very nice. I know how long it took to get my system working the way I wanted it to. The idea that you guys can get a car up and running well in two days I find amazing. What a difference a pro (or two) makes. Bravo!

Max

[MarioVelotta]

Luftvagon, the clt mounted to an intake stud. Since the cold start and hot restarts are the things that take time we didn't address it to much. This car is pretty close to me so I'm sure it will be in when it starts getting cold for some fine tuning. There are ways to help the cold start on ITB's without an idle valve and that is mainly by jacking the timing for the most torque at idle then setting up the idle advance table to bring it back to a sane number once warm.

Drive-ability was fantastic, it just does what you ask it. Not choosing over sized TB's has alot to do with that. This is the biggest misconception when using ITB's. That bigger is better, when it's really the complete opposite.

Thanks for having me out Nate, I love driving around with you.

P.S. We used 24# injectors and they at about 60% duty

[falcor]

Saw that video over at 914 World and it made me soo excited for my own build which is pretty similar with a stock 2.0 and itb's. I'm one of those who's read alot of horror stories about MS (I still dont like the open look of the relay board) but had I known you guys coud supply a pretty much complete running package I would so have opted for that for my own car. Hopefully I can get my own car running close to as nicely as that one does. Just started wiring in the injectors last night and will continue today.

Nice work Nate and Mario!

/Mats in Sweden

[damo99]

what injector are modern 32# injectors.
i have tried to look it up and found nothing.i asume your tb;s are CB prerformance .
i am putting 40mm tb's on my 2056 and i am looking for injectors to suit
so far i have come up with golf mk4 1600 injectors

[falcor]

I think 32# converts to about 340 cc/min so you should be able to use a bosch injector out for example a Saab 9-3 or 9-5 if you can find one at your local junkyard. I'm using the brown injectors out of a Saab 9-5 Aero 2003. They're a smidge bigger at 350 cc/min (at 3 bar fuel pressure) but should work ok.

[Clonebug]

Volvo 940 turbo uses 32# injectors.....that's what I have in my buggy...good for 230 hp.

[MarioVelotta]

We actually used 24# injectors. Max duty was only about 60%

Here is a good reference

[luftvagon]

Luftvagon, the clt mounted to an intake stud. Since the cold start and hot restarts are the things that take time we didn't address it to much.

That's where I put mine too. #3 Cyl intake stud. I see about steady 156F when its fully warm, and about 125-130F on intake, at 98 F ambient. I got my cold starts very close to factory. Less overall WUE, and more and longer ASE, 0 prime - went back to 7.5 BTDC for idle, although I have good results with 16+ BTDC.