type 1 engine

[dwain]

what is the timing for a type 1 engine with a 125 cam?

[Marc]

Ignition timing is primarily determined by the model of distributor being used. There should be a 10-digit Bosch part number stamped into the side of the distributor housing (e.g. 0 231 178 009). If you have a distributor with a vacuum advance mechanism, it needs to be compatible with the carburetor(s) used too.
The camshaft grind has little to do with it - tell us more about the rest.

[dwain]

009 mechanical advance dual kadron carbs 1915cc engine in a trike.

[aussiebug]

When a 009 distributor is fitted to ANY aircooled VW engine, the timing is the same.

Initial setting (after a rebuild for example) just to get it running - 7.5BTDC. 009s vary in how much advance they make (cheap build), so it's then very important to take the next step.

Set the max advance with a timing light at 30-32 degrees at 3000+ rpm. These distributors have the advance "all in" by about 2600rpm, so 3000+ is used to ensure it wont change afterwards.

Use 32 degrees if the engine will take it without pinging/detonation. If not, drop it to 30 degrees and try again. Never use less than 30 degrees as this is the minimum "safety" setting which prevents detonation at any rpms and throttle setting. If the engine it still detonating at that setting, use a higher octane fuel, and try for 32 degrees again if it will take it.

This minimises any acceleration stumbles you might experience - a common occurrence when using the 009.

30 degrees is 46.5mm to the right of TDC around the pulley rim. 32 degrees is 49mm to the right of TDC.

Once you have it set to the 30-32 degrees, you can then measure the static setting if you like (it is usually somewhere between 5 and 10BTDC) and then use THAT setting for THAT distributor on THAT trike to set it static in future.

[dwain]

I have a 1915cc engine in my trike. I have dual kadrons on it now. I have a single empi 44 I put on it but could not get it to idle properly. Is this carb to big for this application?

[Marc]

No, but as a rule you're better off with duals - at least if you plan to ride through the colder months. Insufficient intake manifold heat is the culprit, it's hard for the mixture to stay in suspension over the long trip to the heads...fuel condenses on the cool manifold walls and dribbles into the cylinders in blobs too large to burn fully, effectively causing a lean mixture. There are "deluxe" manifolds designed to provide more heat to the center section, but the exhaust flow available from most aftermarket header systems isn't much so it's questionable if it'd be worth the expense.

Are you certain that you have no induction leaks on the IDF manifold? Even a tiny one can make a dramatic effect on idle quality.