Time for a change

[crvc]

I've had this 1967 bug for ten years. I've replaced most everything: Rebuilt 1640cc DP engine with stock carb and fuel pump. New pan eight years ago, body-off paint, new glass, new brake cylinders, shoes and MC. Probably will need a new starter. I'm bored with it. I'm ready to sell it or trade for a Westfalia.

Ten years ago I had a 1967 and 1975 bugs. I lifted both bodies and switched them after welding in new floors. So the 1967 bug has the 1975 chassis. The 1975 sat unused in a barn for 20 years so the tranny is very good.

Any idea on an asking price for the bug? As I said, I'd be happy to trade for a westfalia project. I'm getting a 2014 Nissan pickup for work so I can work on a project vehicle without needing it as a daily driver. That's been the biggest headache since my daughters left for college, took my Subaru and stuck me with the 1967 bug.

TIA,

kevin

[Marc]

I thought you'd previously said it had a 1973 pan. Regardless, how is it titled? In many states the mismatched VINs could cause a real nightmare at the DMV.

[crvc]

http://i1325.photobucket.com/albums/u63 ... fd220f.jpg

I don't remember what year the younger bug was. I remember it had ginormous round lights on the rear fenders. Also I think the engine was originally fuel-injected. I took the engine out over the weekend, thinking the TO bearing was going bad but it looks and sounds normal in my hand. Also I thought starting problems were from a bad solenoid. I took the starter out and used jumpers attacled to the battery. It showed something else wrong. It still clicks. then spins slowly, then spins without the pinion moving forward. So I guess I need a new starter.

Luckily I have a brand new truck so I'm suddenly in no rush to fix the bug. Only problem now it my wife can't drive her car in at night.

kevin

[Marc]

You CANNOT "bench-test" an ACVW starter, unless it's the self-supporting style that was used in AutoSticks/Full-autos/914/some Buses. The "4-speed" style starter relies upon the bushing in the trans bellhousing to hold the shaft centered, without it the armature will "pole" (get sucked to the side by the magnetic field) which can cause damage to the windings, etc...good way to ruin a functional part.

Be sure to install a new bushing along with the new starter (Bosch requires that as a condition of their warranty). In many cases, the root cause of intermittent starter problems is a worn bushing, so you might want to try replacing that to see if your old starter is still good after all before buying a new starter.

OR, you could "upgrade" to one of those "automatic" starters which doesn't need a bushing. I needed a starter for my trike when I was out of state and didn't have the requisite tools to replace the bushing so I went to Auto Zone and picked up one of their "Duralast" units (P/N 16300) for $35.99. I didn't even try to get away with turning in my grenaded 4-speed starter core (they might've accepted it, they get the same $16 core charge for either one) - even at $52 it's still a bargain. They offer a "limited lifetime" warranty and have a pretty good reputation for honoring it, making this a valid choice for an expedient solution IMO.

Looking through your Photobucket pics I didn't see anything that helps to identify the vintage of the pan, but the third digit of the VIN will reveal the model year - if the number is 115xxxxxx it is indeed a `75.
F.I. pans also have a fuel return line up the RH side and the heater cables are pointed more towards the top-mounted control valves of the F.I. heater boxes.
Regardless, the car's legal status is in question and any savvy potential buyer will balk if you haven't taken the steps to get the title to reflect the correct VIN(s) - especially if they'll be needing to acquire a title in another state.

[crvc]

I was aware that the dash number should match the numbers on the tunnel under the rear seat. Years ago I asked my neighbor, a city cop, about that. Since at the time I owned two bugs he didn't think it would be a problem. When I ultimately sold the other bug I told the buyer about the numbers and he wasn't concerned. He moved to Utah with the bug. That was at least 10 years ago and I never heard back from him.

Can I test the starter after bolting it back in with no motor? I have spare bushings. Using jumper cables the wires got hot enough to blister my finger. I assumed something had shorted in the starter.

Thanks,

kevin

[Marc]

...I assumed something had shorted in the starter....

Something did, when you applied power without benefit of support - hopefully it wasn't for long enough to do any permanent damage. If the bushing in the trans looks decent (not obviously ovalled) go ahead and put a little grease in it and then bolt in the starter for testing. If it turns but doesn't sound like it's happy doing so (the speed varies/drags down) replace the bushing and try again before you condemn the starter. ACVWs don't use the "Bendix" drive that's typical of Detroit starters, the pinion is actually physically pulled out into engagement with the flywheel by a mechanical linkage on the solenoid. Solenoids do go bad, and new ones are available, but IMO it's generally not cost-effective to buy a new solenoid for a tired starter.

[crvc]

Once the engine was out I found some two-inch long thin metal strips in the bell housing. The pinion jiggles a lot when holding the starter in one hand and moving the pinion side-to-side with the other hand. So I ordered a rebuilt starter, the type that doesn't need a bushing.

kevin

[Marc]

Yeah, the drive grenaded (same thing that happened in my trike) so that one needs surgery. The SR17 will make a nice easy fix. It's slightly more powerful and longer (in rare cases the wires need to be extended).