Amr500 on 1641cc ! dyno p23

[rubenski]

First post into 2015!


Got a question, on the stock DP intake manifolds, there's a little cutout between the 2 intake holes. Do those need to be welded shut? To prevent boost leaking from one cilinder intake to the other. ??


Greetz!

[Alexios]

Happy new year!
No need to weld the end castings at all. Boost is not going anywhere:)

Alex


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[rubenski]

But dont you then put pressure on the valve thats closed? for example, since the boost will pass from the 3rd to 4 th cilinder?

[Alexios]

But aren't you already doing that? When in boost, the whole manifold is pressurized. All intake valves are seeing boost at the same time. Uprated springs might be a good idea to prevent the valves from opening under boost. Doubt that will happen though with the stock amr pulley:)

Alex


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[rubenski]

Okay, sounds reasonable, it was some input given by my engine builder.
I'll talk him about it.
Since this is the first time he sees that kind of blower and has no experience with superchargers (i think). He is more a turbo kinda guy! You can see that on his website i posted in my startpost.

Made a template today so i can start working on my carburator base plate. On where i will try to fit an custom butterfly intake.

Greetz

[Alexios]

What will be the function of the butterfly intake?


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[rubenski]

None, it'll just look badass!

[aqua zombie]

Lookin real good. I'm going to school on this site and what you have done so far. Nice vw by th way. I saw this on on kemotorsport and it looked like a clean install close to the same configuration as your set up. Just thought is post it here for you as I like the way they did their tensioner.

[aqua zombie]

The cog drive is a nice touch, though you could use a ribbed belt or v belt. Looks like the charger is sitting on the intake alone. I think I'd brace it up a bit. Maybe this one is and I can't see it in the photo.

[rubenski]

I wouldnt use the cog drive
No room for slip in the belt whatsoever.....

Slip is no good but a little does.

A ribbed 4 or 5 belt is the best i think.

And id also brace the amr a bit more.

Hope my stuff gets welded soon.

Greetz

[Alexios]

Be careful with the crank pulleys from the kemotorsport, they tend to break. David's blog with the amr500 on a 1915 has som pictures of what happens.

I chose to mount the ke gilmer pulley on the outside of my steel crank pulley. I like running a dedicated belt to the charger for the following reasons
1. If the supercharger fails or starts acting up, remove the belt and keep driving, the fan still works:) the engine runs just fine with the supercharger not spinning
2. Go easy on the alternator bearings. They are not really dimensioned to handle large belt tension.

On my first attempt with the amr, i used a v-belt, it started slipping at 7psi. I went with gilmer and no more spinning and with less belt tension. I will be raking apart the engine in a short while, i will report on eventual wear on the rear bearing.
Ruben, since you alteady got the serpentine kit, stick with it.
A pressure valve might be a good idea when running the amr carbs. A misfire into the manifold can wreck havoc, a slipping belt helps, but a pressure valve might be smart. You can use a bov with just the spring tension as a safety or go cheap like me and use one of these:
http://m.ebay.com/itm/121246315005?nav=SEARCH
They can be had at pretty much any psi value. I will be using a 25psi one as a safety on the next revision of my setup.

Later:)
Alex


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[rubenski]

Indeed. Since i already got a serpentine kit i wont change it.

And where would you mount such a bov? Before or after the amr?

And how do you determine the pressure at when it will blow off?

Tought i read that you need a bov with an tube on it to lead it out of the engine bay becaus when it relieves some petrol gasses can cause a fire..

[Alexios]

The pressure relief valve can be connected anywhere that is convenient to the manifold after the amr.
The pressure relief valve should have an opening pressure that is higher than the max boost that is possible. At the moment i boost around 15psi so a valve opening at 20-25psi should fit the bill nicely.
A hose attached to the relief valve is a very good idea. Vented fuel gasses can easily be ignited by the coil, they should definately be vented outside the engine compartment.

Alex


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[Alexios]

Hi ruben.

A really good idea is to get a wideband o2 sensor if you already don't have one.
Since the amr has low efficiency a way to monitor the intake air temperatures might be smart. Something like this:
http://m.ebay.com/itm/311237306567?nav=SEARCH
It can be had with an npt sensor instead of the probe.

How are you controlling timing? You should be retarding the timing under boost.

Alex


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[rubenski]

But to know what bov i have i should have a way to mesure the boost. So first ill need a boost gauge and sensor.
I saw that there's a slot in the stock end castings... maybe a good place to fit a sensor? Got any leeds on good price/quality? I already have good experirience with the speedhut stuff.

And then i stil need to know what scaling i need on the boost gauge....



Haha. Lots of stuff to figure out...

Expect lots of questions to come....