Is this case usable?

[stevepugh]

I have gotten hold of a case that on the whole is mint. It was a 2276 but The crank had jammed and on inspection when the engine was split, the end bearing dowel has come loose and ovaled the hole.
The previous owner was going to repair it but opted for a new race case. And all of the bits were fine and all the engine internals were not damaged and is now running as a complete engine with a new case.

Is THIS case now toast or is it save able?
I've heard that a new hole can be drilled and fit the bearing round 180degrees.
It would be a shame if this case could not be reused.
http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q62/ ... 2CE7A4.jpg

[Marc]

I'd use it in a heartbeat - probably drill a new dowel pin hole since this one's so elongated that it'd go substantially oversize by the time it was made round again. The location's not critical, but the new bearing must have a matching blind hole to maintain the same installed position. One way to do this is to fit the bearing into the case and mark them with a scribe line, then remove the bearing and dowel and make the new hole in it, displaced from the stock one by ~½" (and perhaps slightly undersize compared to the factory one to allow for adjustment if needed), then coat the surface with Prussian blue or even grease. Offer the bearing up to the case, matching up the scribe line. Bop it with the heel of your hand so it makes contact in the saddle, then pull it straight out. The Prussian Blue or grease will indicate where the new dowel pin hole needs to be drilled. Size it for a snug fit of the dowel, and check that the depth is sufficient that the dowel won't bottom out in the bearing which would pinch it against the crank. If you screw up and go too deep you can always find a longer dowel (or make one from the shank of a sacrificial small screwdriver). If you're uneasy about doing this yourself, any machinist can do it for you.
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=137650

[stevepugh]

It's a mag case I believe. It's too light to be Ali.
It cost me zero to buy.
Basically I want to put together a street engine. This engine won't be raced. I have all the internal components and have this case which is a Brazil as41 and I also have a single relief case.
Both of which used to be 2276 and as such need no machining / clearancing.
But both have their downsides. One is single relief... And this one has the dowel issue.

The spec will be a forged 82mm CW Crank, AA pistons, a w125 cam and 44idfs.
Heads TBC..

The obvious answer is a new Autolinea case. But that's not on the cards.

Someone on another forum suggested JB weld!

[Marc]

JB Weld would probably work, at least for some time - as I stated in the other thread, the primary job of the dowel is to make sure that the bearing's oil passage is aligned with the case's upon assembly - the "crush" is what holds it in place until the motor gets high miles on it. When that day comes I'd rather have a sturdily-anchored pin than one set in mud, it could add many thousands of miles of useful life.

[Ol'fogasaurus]

JB Weld would probably work, at least for some time - as I stated in the other thread, the primary job of the dowel is to make sure that the bearing's oil passage is aligned with the case's upon assembly - the "crush" is what holds it in place until the motor gets high miles on it. When that day comes I'd rather have a sturdily-anchored pin than one set in mud, it could add many thousands of miles of useful life.

I agree with Marc. A "hash job" is something waiting to fail (e.g., did the dowel set straight or at the right depth) and with the cost of an engine rebuild do it right the first time. See you local machinist and maybe they can't come up with a proper fix for the dowel problem. A dollar spent this way is a bunch of dollars potentially saved at some later time.

Lee

[stevepugh]

It's done. This repair was brilliant and looks great now its done.
What we did was driil it to take a 10mm thread then cut a std pushrod and then cut a 10mm thread on it. Screwed it in with some locktite, cut the pushrod and rotary filed it down.
Job done. The oil gallery in the stock pushrod is the same size as the bearing dowel.


http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q62/ ... 00F5_1.jpg

[raul arrese]

Nice !!! Im glad you fixed it , people are so afraid to do stuff , fix it !! no fear !!!

[stevepugh]

Nice !!! Im glad you fixed it , people are so afraid to do stuff , fix it !! no fear !!!

Yeah I got told by quite a few that the case was now toast. But it doesn't even need a line bore. Not bad for a case I got for free.

And it's already cleared for an 82mm crank and bored for 94mm.

[raul arrese]

yeah , Im on a few vw forums and everyone is always , trash it or send it to someone who is a professional and has the equipment , bull Sh#%% t , I will fix it or ruin it myself !!!!!! good job..

[Ol'fogasaurus]

Very coo and a big well donen Steve. I think this should be a "sticky" so it is easy to find if someone else has a similar problem. The description of the fix was very good and so was Marc's discussion of what it does and what had to be done.

Lee

[shepherd]

Very coo and a big well donen Steve. I think this should be a "sticky" so it is easy to find if someone else has a similar problem. The description of the fix was very good and so was Marc's discussion of what it does and what had to be done.

Lee

Agreed, a very clever fix.