diagonal arm bushing alternate method

[helowrench]

I was working my Ghia rear suspension Sunday and Monday.
wheel bearings, trailing arm bushings, CV axles,brake wheel cylinders etc
As I was going through it, I must say I heaartily recommend the turnbuckle method for the TA loading/unloading. Worked like a champ.

The problem that I had was in the removal of the diagonal arm inboard bushings.
Since I was going back with urethane, I needed to keep the outer sleeves, but ditch all else.
I usually see a torch recommended to burn out the rubber, but Mr Murphy stepped in, and the torch head failed, two bottles of gas, but no worky.

A moment of thought, and I used a knife, and cut off the rubber flange, then used a drill (.098" or #40) and drilled a series of holes between the inner and outer sleeves. Then I grabbed the inner sleeve, and twisted it right out. The remaining swiss cheesed rubber just popped out with a screwdriver.

All rubber bushings coated with molybdenum powder, the housings coated with Molykote D321.
All urethane bushings coated with an expired tube of Aeroshell #33 grease (lithium based synthetic) with moly powder added (1/3 moly, 2/3 grease by volume)

It definitely changed how the car drives, but I believe that it has to do with all of the wheels no longer trying to follow different directions.
And all of the squeaks are gone from the rear.

Hope this helps someone else that may not have the fire at the right time and place

[SCOTTRODS]

After having used that aeroshell grease at work, I wouldn't use it on anything... It separates in the damn tube all the time and runs out like water in the cabinet we keep it in... and That's on stuff that's NOT expired.

Any number of automotive greases would be head and shoulders above, as they just don't "upgrade" Aircraft Grease very often... as far as formulations are concerned. There's likely much better stuff available to the consumers than the aircraft industry simply due to the certification processes... but that's just my take on it.

[helowrench]

Scott, that is odd. My tubes have Omniflight POs on them, so they have to be 5yrs old at minimum and none have seperated

[Ol'fogasaurus]

I used an Armstrong hacksaw blade to remove the pressed in bushing and rubber mount.

[SCOTTRODS]

Scott, that is odd. My tubes have Omniflight POs on them, so they have to be 5yrs old at minimum and none have seperated

Yeah.... I don't know if it's just a bad batch or something, but we've had several tubes do that recently.... You pick it up out of a nice cool cabinet and the liquid just pours out all over you.... Either way, the logic that Consumer grade may be better still stands. Reason being the Certification process.