usual idle question.

[mentalQtip]

'73 dual port with 34/pict 3 carburetor. Back in June I got it running and idled fine. Car had been previously sitting for several years with a full tank of gas. This week when I tried to start it, it took a lot of cranking before it started to fire. Now it will start but will only keep running if I keep pumping the gas hard. I was hoping that someone could just give me a short list of the most likely things check.

Thanks

Joseph

[Piledriver]

Sadly they never work out like Woody Allens find in "Sleeper".

Gunk in the idle fuel jet.
Gunk in the main jet.
Rust in the line restricting (but not quite cutting off) fuel flow.


The old stale fuel left in there forever "keeps on giving" long after the burnable residue has gone.
Rust is also a byproduct due to condensation, water laden air replaces what fuel evaporated off...

You may need to have the tank professionally cleaned (preferably also coated, better than new) and rebuild the carb properly at a very minimum.

[landrocket]

I have the same set-up. Idle screw slowly vibrating in or out. Fuel cut-off solenoid loose. Took a while to find those, but now she purrs like a kitten. Good Luck.

[mentalQtip]

Back again after giving up for awhile. Pulled the main and idle jets and cleaned jets and where jets were pulled from. I'm getting strong flow of fuel. After cleaning the jets I am pretty sure that the idle is "better", but still I have to keep pumping the gas to keep it running. Now, tho, when I get the rpm up aways, a good pump of gas seems to keep it running longer than before. I still can't keep it going long enough to get back to the engine and investigate any other possibles.
Could it be a leak in one of the rubber seals on the intake?
Also, when at TDC for #1, the rotor is pointing at three o'clock. The notch is at the 9'oclock position. I don't think the distributor is correct for a 34/pict 3. The distributor is vw 021 905 205. Also when I do get it running it misses alot.

I'd really like to get it running and out of my garage so I can push a bus into the garage and get an engine into it.

Thanks to all the patient folks here

Joseph

[landrocket]

I just re-read your post. You may just need a full tune-up. Adjust the valves, cap, rotor, plugs etc, plug wires. The carb is the last thing to get adjusted. Just my two cents, good luck.

[mentalQtip]

Actually thats where I started this time. All of the above, starting with valves. This afternoon I had my daughter start it and as I kept reving it from the carb. while I sprayed wd40 around the rubber seals on the intake. No change. I would try another carb if I had one to trust.

[ainokea]

Try checking the idle cut off solenoid, It might be clogged up and not opening correctly. You can test it by turning the key on then pulling the wire off the solenoid. Touch the solenoid repeatedly. You should hear an audible click each time. If no, remove the valve and cut the button off. Then see if the engine runs like it should. You can replace the solenoid with a new unit at a later date.

Ainokea

[helowrench]

Yep, sounds like you are running on the accel pump, and not the idle circuit.
the usual suspect for me is the cutoff solenoid.
If the cutoff solenoid passes the above check, then carefully remove the carb top while it is still installed.
BE VERY CAREFUL TO NOT ALLOW ANY OF THE SCREWS TO DROP IN THE CARRB THROAT
check to see how far the fuel level is below the carb mating line. It should be about 3/4" or 19mm down

[ainokea]

You could also enrichen the mixture by turning the small screw under the air bypass screw. It might be a little lean or prtially clogged. Sometimes this screw gets stuck and won't move without some persuasion.
I missed what you said about the distributor being out of alignment. you gotta' correct that. First set the crank at TDC. Next remove the distributor cap, loosen the clamp and rotate the distributor body until the rotor lines up with the notch on the rim. Now, pull #1 plug wire and put it in the cap that lines up with rotor and the notch. Going counter clockwise, #2
is installed next, then #3 and finally #4. You should see that firing order in counter clockwise direction is 1, 2, 3, 4, read in clockwise direction it comes out 1,4,3,2. Now get out the old timing lite and shoot the timing. Not saying that this will solve your problem but it might help.

Ainokea

[Mitchell]

A temporary fix is to back the pilot jet near the choke out 1/4 turn. This might help the engine to idle so you can move the car. If this helps remove the jet and clean it.

[crvc]

Actually thats where I started this time. All of the above, starting with valves. This afternoon I had my daughter start it and as I kept reving it from the carb. while I sprayed wd40 around the rubber seals on the intake. No change. I would try another carb if I had one to trust.

I have the same carb and DP setup as the OP. I couldn't keep the car idling at traffic stops unless I had my foot on the accelerator pedal and brake pedal at the same time. I found leaks in manifold boots while spraying them with engine starter. The leaks increased idle by getting starter fluid sucked into the combustion chambers. I don't know but I didn't think wd40 was combustible like engine starter fluid. Just a guess that there still might be a leak there.

kevin