New Transmission, Not Smooth Shifting

[mikedren]

I recently (a few months ago) bought a new transmission from a reputable company. After installing it, I couldn't get the thing to shift really smoothly. What is happening is when I go to shift, I usually have to wait a couple seconds prior to moving to the next gear or else the gears will grind. Everything sounds and runs fine once it's in gear though. I was having the same issue prior to the trans. swap just more defined. This is what leads me to believe that it is not the transmission, but something else.

I know that my shift bushings are good as I replaced them in the last few months and the play on the shifter is zero to minimal. The bowden tube is only a few years old, so that should be a problem. I do have the original shifter installed.

1. I think the bowden tube is the correct length. If it were wrong, would it cause the hard shifting?
2. I've adjusted the shifter all over the place, used several methods of adjusting it, and feel like I've gotten close. Would I need to grind out the slots on the shift plates to allow for more adjustment? Has anyone had to do this?
3. Could my stock shifter be worn out and causing this problem?

I'm willing to try most anything so any help would be appreciated. Thank you.

[Marc]

Can you shift into Reverse with the engine running? If it grinds in, first thing to rule out is a clutch problem. For example a bad Bowden tube or cracked clutch pedal can prevent the clutch from releasing fully even if the freeplay adjustment seems fine; clutch disc lining can disintegrate and the bits stack up at the perimeter.
Mainshaft dragging in the pilot bearings can cause similar symptoms, too.

By "bad Bowden tube" I mean one which is telescoping when the clutch pedal is depressed. A Bowden tube which is too short, so that it has insufficient preload, is often the cause of clutch "chatter" upon engagement but wouldn't really be a likely suspect for the symptom you describe.

[perrib]

I'm with Marc: pilot bearing, clutch disc dragging on the splines, etc

[dangerous]

Some pilot bearings interfere with the radius on the input shaft.
(see pic below)

Regarding the cable, just adjust it as VW specification,
and make the bowden tube bend to spec too.
Once you understand that the bend is purely to keep tension on the cable for mounts moving,
and that if the trans were solid mounted it would not need a bend,
you will under stand that too much or too little bend can be a problem.

Also, if the clutch wing is over adjusted the fingers of the diafragm can hit on the disc, causing as you describe.

[Marc]

They're also some parts on the market these days that can create problems. For example, there's a spring-center 200mm F&S disc that has four springs rather than the six found on an OEM part; they're fatter and can interfere with the diaphragm on some clutch covers.
If a flywheel's resurfaced too far, the clearance between the engine side of the clutch disc center and the gland nut can be so little that once the disc friction material wears some the center starts dragging on the gland nut. A similar problem comes when you use a thicker "HD" gland nut washer without undercutting the head of the gland nut (as Berg does) to allow for the extra thickness.

[mikedren]

I can shift into reverse without grinding if I let it sit for a second. I know that the clutch pedal is good as I have replaced the arm recently. I think the bowden tube is good, but I'll double check the bend to make sure it's correct. The last time I had the engine out, I didn't see any particles broken off.

When it gets dropped again, I'll check the pilot bearing and see if anything else is catching. I have all stock parts for the clutch and pressure plate so that shouldn't be it.