cutting threads coolant temperature sensor

[luftvagon]

Has anyone cut threads into CTS to make it fit into the stock type4 TempII sensor plug?
The CTS has a smooth area that could be pitched with correct thread to bolt right in for that factory look.

[luftvagon]

[Piledriver]

The std GM sensor is ~paper thin in the snout area, and full of heat sink compound for heat transfer.
(I turned one of mine into a "free air" unit like that )

The purpose of the brass snout is to seal the sensor from coolant or oil.

There ARE smaller std GM style sensors that would probably work for what you want, just not that one.
(IIRC one is 1/8" NPT)

Note: Most thermistors have issues much over 300F, even the std Bosch unit is unreliable.

[luftvagon]

Thank you sir, your experience has saved me $45; $20 for the tool, $20 for the sensor, and $5 in gas running around town trying to find all this.
Ok, time to find another spot for the sensor. Thanks!

[Piledriver]

You may want to mail order the sensor and matching connector, a FLAPS is likely to get 2-3X what you would pay for the same part.

Same with Hall sensors or VR sensors etc, esp the connectors are brutal purchased locally.(unless junkyard sourced)

Shipping can be costly, but also can be ~nothing compared with the price of fuel/your time.

I have a sensor just like the one you have pictured tied off to a PR tube, except the brass "cover" is cut off like an IAT sensor.
(underside tin is in place, so it ~only sees the hot air off the head)

I have considered making up an exhaust "tube" to install it in, where the tube ~contacts the head to provide a duct for "used" hot air from the head, but it's way down on a long to do list, as the current setup works well.

[Dale M.]

You may want to mail order the sensor and matching connector, a FLAPS is likely to get 2-3X what you would pay for the same part.

Same with Hall sensors or VR sensors etc, esp the connectors are brutal purchased locally.(unless junkyard sourced)

Shipping can be costly, but also can be ~nothing compared with the price of fuel/your time.

I have a sensor just like the one you have pictured tied off to a PR tube, except the brass "cover" is cut off like an IAT sensor.
(underside tin is in place, so it ~only sees the hot air off the head)

I have considered making up an exhaust "tube" to install it in, where the tube ~contacts the head to provide a duct for "used" hot air from the head, but it's way down on a long to do list, as the current setup works well.

Way back in some other thread there was a sensor bedded/potted in a copper electrical connector and connector eye was just put under a exhaust stud.... Seems to me it is the easiest way to accomplish heat detection... IF I am not mistaken this is just for warm up anyway and ECU is just looking for enough heat so it can throttle back mixture and go to "regular" idle conditions from start up rich condition....

Somewhere along the way we may have gotten sidetracked on this whole warmup thing thinking we have to know exact temperature of engine [oil] all the time....

Dale

[Paul H]

You may want to mail order the sensor and matching connector, a FLAPS is likely to get 2-3X what you would pay for the same part.

Same with Hall sensors or VR sensors etc, esp the connectors are brutal purchased locally.(unless junkyard sourced)

Shipping can be costly, but also can be ~nothing compared with the price of fuel/your time.

I have a sensor just like the one you have pictured tied off to a PR tube, except the brass "cover" is cut off like an IAT sensor.
(underside tin is in place, so it ~only sees the hot air off the head)

I have considered making up an exhaust "tube" to install it in, where the tube ~contacts the head to provide a duct for "used" hot air from the head, but it's way down on a long to do list, as the current setup works well.

Way back in some other thread there was a sensor bedded/potted in a copper electrical connector and connector eye was just put under a exhaust stud.... Seems to me it is the easiest way to accomplish heat detection... IF I am not mistaken this is just for warm up anyway and ECU is just looking for enough heat so it can throttle back mixture and go to "regular" idle conditions from start up rich condition....

Somewhere along the way we may have gotten sidetracked on this whole warmup thing thinking we have to know exact temperature of engine [oil] all the time....

Dale

We used to produce the copper/potted temp sensor and the main reason was ease of install and they work well but too expensive and the temp offset due to the actual sensor being outside the head was a bit much at 80C so we changed to the M6 stainless stud which has negligible offset,
As Pile says the automotive sensors crap out at 300F but the better quality thermistors are just as accurate at -20C as they are at 250C and as reliable as a thermocouple

[luftvagon]

I fabricated my own adapter for the Type4 Temp Sensor II location:

[Piledriver]

Paul --- have a PN or source for a quaity M6>M10 thread sensor?
Is it 2 wire or grounded through the head?
(can be more a problem if it uses the engine as the return)

[luftvagon]

The sensors fits perfectly under the fuel pressure regulator. I may end up drilling the inside of the adopter so the sensors slides even further.... Fun!

[Piledriver]

The sensors fits perfectly under the fuel pressure regulator. I may end up drilling the inside of the adopter so the sensors slides even further.... Fun!

I abolutely fail trying to visualize that.

[luftvagon]

I'll get some pictures tonight. The sensor adaptor spent a night curing with red-loc.

[Dale M.]

I'll get some pictures tonight. The sensor adaptor spent a night curing with red-loc.

Would not use any sealants on any threads as it will inhibit (restrict-insulate) heat transfer...

Just using a temp sensor for mechanical transfer instead of fluid transfer reading probably does not need any sealants....

Dale

[Dale M.]

Paul --- have a PN or source for a quaity M6>M10 thread sensor?
Is it 2 wire or grounded through the head?
(can be more a problem if it uses the engine as the return)

Looks just like a"concoction" of brass adapters mated to a generic stud to me...

GOOGLE search "step studs" to find stud of choice.... Seem to member a place called Belmetric with lots of choices....

https://www.belmetric.com/

Dale

[Paul H]

Paul --- have a PN or source for a quaity M6>M10 thread sensor?
Is it 2 wire or grounded through the head?
(can be more a problem if it uses the engine as the return)

We have plenty of standard sensors M10 and M12 over here as they fit them to things like Renault, Fiat etc but the M6 stud I have made and its a 2 wire