Hi members , I have looked several times over older post and haven't come up with an answer , My question is other then buying a Kennedy plate or Fats plate, does anyone have an idea of any WC engine that would possibly bolt straight up to the trans of my beetle with a few mounts added. OR is my only choice to go with an adapter kit , I would really love to install a 1.8 or 2.0 from a new vw but am open to any ideas.
The only watercooled engine I am aware of that is a direct bolt to a ACVW trans on is a Waterboxer out of a Vanagon...
Makes sense as it is essentially a watercooled T1, came in 1914 and 2110 CC varieties, pressure die cast aluminum case.
It has some of it's own issues, but most motors do.
Many folks have done that particular "swap".
Some folks even turn them into "factory" aluminum T1 cases.
Addendum to Newtons first law:
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
Price ,and keeping the character of the car are paramount in my opinion. I think the rotary or the type IV are the only decent engine swaps for a type I. If you have a bus then put a Subaru in it or maybe a Ford 4.0 because it is a 60 degree v6. There are performance parts for the 4.0 but they are not at a bargain. A rotary is small so putting a radiator in the rear might be possible. I'm told a rotary weights 100 pound more than a type I engine and as with any engine besides the type IV there is the issue of the extra weight in the rear of a beetle. Your going to have to use a 6 rib bus transaxle to hold up to serious power or spend a lot with a subaru transaxle swap.It might be worth looking into a real porsche engine , a 6 cylinder as a mid engine car and use the area of the back seat verses trying to put a radiator in the front. I can't imagine getting a radiator to A work good ,or B keep the character of a beetle so I personally say Na to anything but a rotary or a type IV for a beetle. Rotaries are distinctive much like an aircooled engine. These are my thoughts only to reinforce what is right for you.
Strangely, rotaries tend to need larger cooling setups.
Small but very hot, and unforgiving beasts, overheat them once and go find another.
Torque kills transmissions, which is why a NA rotary gets along fine with a well built T1 trans.
Addendum to Newtons first law:
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
No one but die hard rotary purists bother with rotaries anymore.
Take it from someone that had a rota-bug, good 20 years ago but these days they are boat anchors.
If you want simple and easy put a carbed wasser in.
No adapter needed, just a radiator up front, in the back is just silly and mod a type 1 header to fit.
or for a balance of power, lifespan and reliability with good fuel economy you cant beat the EJ Subaru conversion.
1974 Germanlook 1303 Suba-Beetle
Subaru EJ25 Boost R 17", 4 Wheel discs, Topline suspension and A/C
For a rotary swap I would attempt to build a duct system with two small radiators in the rear and have a shared inlet and outlet to the system. Metal working skills would be beneficial ,maybe have the output cool the exhaust down. Don't water-boxers, type IVs, and single cam subarus have about the same power figures while twin cam subarus need to have the beetle body clearanced? Does the water in the water-boxer have any gains over the type IV that is worth the coolant issues? The type I transaxle limits the choices right down. A low power subaru or water-boxer is not going to get past type IV power so the water part is just going to be gimmick. If I did not personally want a metal working project and prefer aggravation over boredom , I would build a type I with an aluminum case and a counter weighted crank. Conversions are meant to have benefits that are not otherwise possible. If you can get a great deal on a particular parts-car ,go for it!
Even the smallest 1.5L EJ15 Subi engine put out more power than a type 4 and similar to a wasser but most people go the 2L or bigger which are a long way in front.
I've got a SOHC 2.5 in mine punching out close to 180hp, more than double a wasser/type 4 from an engine that can be bought for $500 from a junk yard and fit my beetle with no bodywork and only weighs 25kg more than a type 1, not even enough to notice.
And running through a totally stock Super Beetle trans that I rebuilt over 12 years ago,
The stock trans is stronger than most give it credit for, you'll only break one with that much power if you drive like a knob dropping the clutch and do burn outs all the time .
You're right though the DOHC engines take a lot of hacking to fit in a bug though and not worth the effort IMO unless you have to have a turbo engine.
1974 Germanlook 1303 Suba-Beetle
Subaru EJ25 Boost R 17", 4 Wheel discs, Topline suspension and A/C
Well thanks alot members , it seems I have a lot of things or engines I need to decide on, my first thoughts were to build a custom chassis and build a rear v-6 chevy set up from a impala donor I have . But not too sure of all the complication I may come across with that.
OK Think I have finally made up my mind , Along with the VW I also have an 1988 short bed ranger , not the best for running low and mean but I think with a set of bags and cutting the front clip and putting a mustang clip it should work and look fairly nice. Measurements from door hinge to center rear wheel is a bit over 5 feet ( VW ) and just under 7 feet for the ( Ranger )
My thoughts are to strip the chassis down to minimal set dummy v-8 and trans in and move Vw body back and forth till I like it . I want the out come to be some what of open engine bay rat rod but not to take away from the vw look at the same time . If any of you group members have any ideas on paper or some site info plz send . I am no math professor so make all explanations somewhat phonics for rednecks thanks members .
Is the engine that that came with the vehicle still intact? If it is, have you considered building it up 1.8 or 2.0L? It would be easier and a lot cheaper than a watercooled installation.
OK this is what I have come up with , I will be taking the Ranger chassis ans leaving it the factory length , pushing to bug body on back but cutting the roof off and using the ranger bed and top did a little drawing to see what it may turn out like and attached it , tell me what yall think ,
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Last edited by killingtime_919 on Wed Oct 17, 2012 6:50 am, edited 1 time in total.
killingtime_919 wrote:OK this is what I have come up with , I will be taking the Ranger chassis ans leaving it the factory length , pushing to bug body on back but cutting the roof off and using the ranger bed and top did a little drawing to see what it may turn out like and attached it , tell me what yall think ,
I don't see the drawing....... My iPad missing something?
I have found them completely missing more than once. - PILEDRIVER