Mystery Squishy Brake Issue

[theKbStockpiler]

If your wheel cylinders are pitted they will allow air to enter and not let enough fluid out to collect under the boot much. If this happens/when this happens try bleeding your rear brakes or inspect the wheel cylinder bore for small tiny dots (pits) after your sand or hone them. If they are pitted replace them. If you get air in the master just put your foot to the floor to get it out. It does not harm any master cylinder that the bore is not excessively worn on and needs replacing anyway.

[somedayghia]

Hello Gentleman.... and first off thanks for all the replies and recommendations, and now for the solution, keep in mind I'm a prideful person but I'm going to put that to the side for a moment. A few hundred miles before this issue developed I had replaced the front wheel bearings....well guess what, they seated and I had a bit of excessive play on both front discs which was causing the pads to be pushed back into the calipers just enough so that when I depressed the brake pedal, the first push was compensating for the extra gap between pad and disc...so upon re torquing the front wheel bearings all is well in the brakes realm. This was so frustrating that I had parked my car for nearly 2 months.....not that all was wasted time, got my stereo in and modified my shifter so I can reach it without leaning forward....I'm a 6 footer and all leg. I don't wish this frustration on anyone....but if it helps even one person...mission accomplished. have a good evening all !! Jim

[Marc]

What year are your spindles? `66/`67/early`68 all use a smaller tierod end stud with a 17mm wrench-size nut (68½-up are 19mm). Early spindles also have a smaller journal for the inner bearing, if you use a late inner bearing you'll be chasing the adjustment forever...

[somedayghia]

Thanks, Marc, you're right, I originally had the CB lowered spindles which I believe they use all later model spindles, I went back to the original 67 spindles because with my adjustable beam and the lowered spindles it was too low. So as soon as I finish writing this I will order some new inner bearings....thanks again for all your help. Jim

[Marc]

All early BJ spindles take the 311 405 625A inner bearing set. The inner roller-bearing part (the "cone") has a smaller ID. Both the early & late BJ inner bearings use the same outer race (the "cup") so you don't have to change that if it's still in good condition.

The seals are also about 1mm smaller on the ID - if you're running discs you'll want the early disc-brake III or 'Ghia seals (311 405 641A).
With drums you can either use those or the `66-mid`68 Beetle seals (131 405 641/641A). Disc brakes with no backing plates may also be able to use the 131 "drum" seals, I've never tried it.

[somedayghia]

Awesome info, found a gent a couple of states down from me on the samba that had accidentally ordered the early inner bearings so he's sending them to me and I'll hit the local oreilly's for the early seals...thanks again marc !!!! As for the rest of the Ghia, everything is going well, about to go over 3000 miles since her 14 year break on jack stands, will try my hand at posting photos in a bit.

[somedayghia]

One last post then I'll let this one go. Just want to give thanks again to Marc and others that kept me motivated to find this issue, after installing correct inner wheel bearings, brakes are back to 100%....took a 150 mile round trip to Raleigh to catch the Uproar festival....purred like a kitten, stopped on a dime and was an absolute joy to drive, average speed going up NC 401 was 60mph. Now to give my Ghia some more of the finishing details and I keep saying it....I'll post some pics!!!! God Bless and drive safely !!!!! Jim W.