Oil cooler adapter-- 30 second STOCK COOLER BYPASS MOD.

[Piledriver]

This applies to both T1 and T4.

For ages you have heard me rant about the right way to do full flow cooling, and not to run the filter/cooler from the stock cooler location on an adapter.
FJCamper has warned all of the folly of "faux flow" filtering/cooling.

Here's a "right way" to use that remote cooler adapter you have rattling around in your scrap bin...

I keep saying someone should sell a bypass block...
Finally got to the point where I had to make another, this time I took pictures.

Tools required:
Vise. Really.
Drill, bits, ~1/4" and 7/16 is what i used.

1 each std T1/T4 oil cooler (remote) adapter.
2 Plugs and/or fitting as required. Great place for a pressure gauge hose or turbo feed too.(T4)

All you have to do is drill one hole to turn it into a oil loop back/bypass to the mains.
One can also return the pressure feed from the external cooler here, and the factory pressure relief STILL WORKS...
With a pressure outlet block at the pump or at the stock oil filter location lower port, you can go full flow without pulling any oil gallery plugs back out--- 100% bolt on.

Since you are feeding oil pressure from here ONLY, it avoids the issue of hot, uncooled/unfiltered oil getting here.
(at least on a T4, a T1 could be easily modded with a plugged pump outlet or case)

I hope the pics are self-explanatory.
This type of adapter needs ~2mm or so of washer underneath at all 3 studs to avoid excessively crushing the stock orange UFO seals. It usually comes with a gasket same shape as the base, I have seen that seal once or twice.

The Hole That Must Be Drilled: (hint-- UPPER, and not all the way out)
Oil just goes in/back out the block cooler ports if everything is plugged, and splits to the main gallery and pressure relief if feeding the post-cooler/filter oil, also turbo feed etc possible. This surface will be lapped to a mirror finish before use.

cooler-adapter-loop-mod1.jpg

For stock T4 cooling, out the top won't work, it will get 2 internal hex plugs.
An aluminum "full flow" oil pump cover could almost be modded for this purpose, but a nice billet bit with the outlet pointing down should cost ~ same, may make one for giggles.
Please excuse the gnarly weld, it looked great at one point, AC and thoriated tungsten don't play well together.
No inclusions/voids, honest. All weld.

cooler-adapter-loop-new-port.jpg

[supaninja]

Pile- I'm going dry sump on the turboo motor and I was planning on running a external cooler between the pump and sump. I got a couple of those full flow adapters and I was just going to run a hose loop and a turbooo feed. Can you post up the oil passage diagram for a type 4 motor?

[Piledriver]

Here: http://www.tunacan.net/t4/tech/oil_pics/layout.gif

It's a little misleading, as on a T4 the lifter oil passages don't go "through" the lifter bores, but across the top, so you always have pressure.

The diagram shows a T4 is extremely close to a T1 except for the first stop after the pump, the full flow filter (shown with the filters housing relief valve, which I always plug, as the filters have their own)

The diagram misses some of the finer difference details T4 vs. the T1, like the oil grooves in the rocker shafts/feeds to adjuster screws etc.

[Piledriver]

Some more progress with V2, there's room and meat for a fitting(s) out the side of the cooler bypass as well.

Someone should make these, they will allow a trivial install of a remote full flow oil cooling setup on a Bay bus (T4)
(or other configuration where pulling off the oil pump cover is a PITA or worse)

bypassblocks-in-and-out.jpg

The fittings/hoses would clear fine.(just, but they will, I'd like to say it was great planning, but it simply worked out)

[Clatter]

Why get rid of the factory cooler?
Upright conversion?

Wouldn't both an In, and an Out fitting, in the lower piece, where the filter stand bolts on, achieve the same thing (preventing bypass/faux flow) if you wanted to keep the OG cooler?

Just a slower kid, breathing through the mouth, trying to catch up, here.
Hard to embrace only using an external cooler on a factory fan shroud...

[Piledriver]

You can go in/out at the filter and keep the stock oil cooling bypass setup--- (I made one of those, too)
--- that was not the desired outcome.

Need room for a modern AC compressor unit in this particular case, a T1 cooler provides room, but not quite enough cooling for Texas summers.

The 96 row mesa with 10" temp controlled fan//ext oil thermostat should keep up with anything.

The factory T4 cooler location will be filled with a screen or adjustable grate to simulate the backpressure of the cooler, you can't just block it off or it will jack up the airflow to the rest of the engine.

This is primarily intended for non-stock cooling setups, but has many uses.

This gets rid of the factory "oil thermostat" effect entirely, and keeps the factory relief (if you want, or provides a place to attach an external, if you were converting to drysump and hadn't modded the case for bypass return to tank)

[fusername]

hmmm. I may steal this, I'm prepping an engine already built for some bus life. low mileage essentially stock upgrade. ording a cam from jake and MAAAAYBE a small stroked crank if the bills work out. oil temp drives me nuts, this one ran pretty cool for a bus but I would love to put a monster remote cooler w/ forced air and have a full electric fan or bypass rig to keep temps at exactly 180. originally planning on retainig stock cooler and adding, but if this is easier... hardest part is probably just keeping airflow right inside the shrowds.

I think I need to go look at a block, I feel like I am missing something.

[Devastator]

Someone should make these, they will allow a trivial install of a remote full flow oil cooling setup on a Bay bus (T4)
(or other configuration where pulling off the oil pump cover is a PITA or worse)

Send me a drawing, Pile, and I'll see what I can do. There are 14 CNC mills through the door to my right. I've never seen a T4 engine, and haven't messed with the oil flow on my T1 in many years.

[Piledriver]

Just for clarity, there are (at least) 3 ways to use the adapter, depending on what setup you have.

1) Simple loop for oil cooler location. Drill the hole shown, and plug BOTH of the outlet ports, or perhaps stick a pressure/temp sensor setup there. This is if you want a "std" full flow cooler/filter setup.
(off the pump cover, back to the uppr 3/4 side boss on the block that goes to the perssure relief)

2)Drill out the adapter as above, and connect the pressure line coming back from the filter/cooler/external oil thermostat. at the cooler bypass. This gives you a return to the middle of the main oil gallery (as stock) and keeps the std pressure relief in the case in the circuit, but prevents the stock "oil thermostat" effect from sending hot uncooled oil to your bearings. (pump or case must be plugged on T1, T4 is a bit more flexible)

The STOCK pressure relief can be set up to return to a DS tank rather than the case sump, but it really must be done with the case apart.

3) Dry sump (mostly) or if you want to play with oil pressure using an adjustable external pressure relief.
Do NOT drill out the adapter, stick a plug on the pump/case pressure relief side, and feed the oil pressure in the main gallery side of the adapter ONLY. Return the output flow of the pressure relief back to the dry sump tank so you don't have to endlessly pump it back out of the case.