Cold ignition advance or idle valve

[Piledriver]

I have the full 10 degrees through 140 then taper down to zero at 200F, then pull some timing at >270.
I never "warm up" so I also add fuel >250F as well as down low.

(I still want to repurpose the EGT circuit for CHT but need to get another tiny insulated TC)

[kuleinc]

So what are you guys using for the warm up air valves? What did you pull them off of? Do they JUST work with MS or is some tweaking required?

[Piledriver]

For most of the valves you need to add a TIP120 or FET output transistor (for higher current) or use a valve designed for purpose like a V75 for a TDi. (V75 doesn't move much air, but would probably be tits for boost control, that's what it's designed for)

(The V3xx MS boards have the TIP120 fidle designed in, on v1.01/v2.2 mainboards it must be added on)

These are designed to deal with PWM, although you may need to play with the PWM frequency for best results/keep it from making annoying noises.

The std Fidle output is a 2N2222 transistor (800mW MAX, <500mW best plan, really only OK for driving a relay. (original B&G setup was on/off, PWM is a little harder on the transistor)

You can run one of the AC kicker valves from a Golf etc or the 2/3 wire VDO idle air valves of a similar era found on many cars using the beefed up output, PWM mode or on/off.

I'm still running a CIS cold idle air valve and cold/idle advance, but it's not quite enough to get that EFI "turn key/start" when it's cold (>40 degrees), it needs some additional air to deal with the thicker oil/gear oil in trans etc for a minute or so.

I have a small Bosch valve that was originally used for emission/vapor control off a 92 Jetta, haven't bothered to install it yet as the car runs perfectly otherwise with the 3.2 alpha code. Its current draw is low enough the 2222 might be OK, but it might not flow enough air by itself to replace the CIS air valve.

The "how to" is spelled out well in The Manual.

[kuleinc]

Did you mean >40 degrees or <40 Degrees, as its typically around 40-45 here in the mornings where I live, during winter... I will probably get by without idle air control at first, but since I'm rigging this all up, motor out! I might as well get it in there now, much easier than later...

Also, I have a shop that works on BMW's, so I have an idle air valve from an E36 (mid 90's) BMW 325 collecting dust, has anyone used one of those? Pretty sure its a bosch part, prolly flow enough air, since its on a 2.5, 2.8, or 3.2L motor...

Also, love your signature, I find it to be very very true...

[panel]

There's a limit to how much RPM rise you can get with increasing advance,

The tons of advance at idle trying to maintain speed does help heads heat up fast.

Just wondered how high (advance) is safe or how high until it's not noticeable (RPM change) using just the 'cold ignition advance' or in your table itself ?

[Piledriver]

using cold advance and rpm based idle speed control options.
Playing with pwm cl idle, but the valve I'm now using is too small, so I keep it going when cold for ~30 seconds like webers.

It's rock steady once slightly warm just using advance.