56' Vdub-aru...VW,Mendeola,Subaru,Porsche,BMW..the works!

[surfbeetle]

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Garage-Sa ... 57079.html is just one example the bunch that they have at Speedway... I plan to use one of these. They have different inlet/outlet positions also. The specs say 25 1/2 inches wide at the flange on the bottom, but the tank is 21 1/2.

[GS guy]

Wow Surf - those Speedway Motors deals on Afco "scratch and dent" radiators was too good to pass up! I'd been contemplating on getting a slightly larger radiator (but just barely - 13" high x ~24" wide) and I need irregular inlet and outlet locations - so it would be a custom build. Figured this would run around $400+, give or take. I didn't want to drop $300 on an off the shelf radiator, then have to spend another $100 or so getting it modified vs. just getting one made custom to fit. But, under $200 the economics make more sense getting one and making some mods. This way I can do my own hand fitting on inlet and outlet, etc for a perfect fit, and still get something finished for closer to $300.
Thanks for the link - a good deal in my book! No intention to hijack 56SemaRag, watching your 56' build daily for updates!

[surfbeetle]

Before you buy the scratch and dent, keep in mind that I believe there's no warranty included on them. For a few bucks more you could get the warrantied radiators on their site. The choice is yours, just make sure you are okay with the possible consequences if something goes wrong. Good Luck!

[GS guy]

You're right Surf - so a bit of a gamble and having to trust the general quality of Afco products and Speedway's reputation.
In my case, it'll go directly into the "cut n chop" dept. anyway, which would void any warrenty, implied or otherwise! (And another reason I was hesitant to buy a new rad. with plans to modify it right off the bat.) A pressure/leak test will be part of the process, but still a bit of a gamble if it should happen to leak at the tube to end tank joints (maybe hard to repair?).

[SuperRSi]

That is another good reason to design what you want and bite the bullet and have Griffin build you exactly the right radiator... Might delay things as you save up the money, but it also lets you never have to worry.

[surfbeetle]

That is another good reason to design what you want and bite the bullet and have Griffin build you exactly the right radiator... Might delay things as you save up the money, but it also lets you never have to worry.

While normally I would tend to agree, Griffin's are quite pricey and I would rather fabricate the mountings in my car to accommodate a more "off the shelf" style radiator so that it's easier to find a replacement if necessary.

[56SemaRag]

What would the ideal radiator size be for our application? From what I have read a good rule is the surface area of the radiator equals the cubic inches of displacement. As well the scoop or inlet should be at least 1/3 of the radiator height. Curious what others have found out

[brywisco]

I would like to go back a bit to your coolant lines in the tunnel.
You are running 5/8" aluminum tubing, correct?
I am in the process of building a 69 bug with an EJ20T suby motor. I plan on putting my rad in the front as well but had not considered such small tubing. I would love to hear more about this setup. Are you running the stock suby water pump? Etc....

[56SemaRag]

I would like to go back a bit to your coolant lines in the tunnel.
You are running 5/8" aluminum tubing, correct

No problem.
With regards to the coolant lines in the tunnel, they are for the heater core only and are indeed 5/8" and made out of aluminum. They will be attached to a heater core on one end and a pnuematically actuated heater bypass valve on the other. My main coolant lines to and from the engine will be run externally and an 1-1/2" diameter aluminum tubing.
I will also be running an aftermarket water pump. Hope that helps.

[brywisco]

Thanks 56... I just saw another thread were you specified that those 5/8" tubes were heater lines.
I was definitely confused for awhile there! Anyway, good stuff and nice build. I like the heater idea and will be looking closer at that when the time comes. I live in Wisconsin and a heater is pretty much mandatory.
I am also leaning towards SS tubing routed in the body mount bolt channel.
Anything you post regarding your cooling and heater systems will be appreciated!

I am currently working on the rust bucket body - heater channels, front firewall, all 1/4 panels....pretty much anything that can rust on a bug. I am surely not a body man, but I am learning.

[56SemaRag]

I will post up more pictures as I progress, I have found I get great ideas from people who have "been there, done that..this is what I would do next time" and learn from them. Hopefully I can be that same type of asset.

I have some body work to do as well, but no where near what you have. My body work will be sporadic until I get my chassis completely done. The front scoop will probably be underway once I settle on a radiator.

[ambrynmc]

what aftermarket water pump are you going to use? Oh wait, do you mean the Crawford one? "high-flow, cast impeller" one?

And, the heater valve, is that the Ford Ranger one? PN# BK 6601294 ? (not trying to sound all official, just posting pn for people..

[56SemaRag]

Yes on both occasions, with heater valve the GMC/Chevy Safari/Astro operate in the exact opposite manner as the Ford one depending on how folks want the valve controlled.

[fastback]

very cool project and top notch work!

[coolrydes]

Yes on both occasions, with heater valve the GMC/Chevy Safari/Astro operate in the exact opposite manner as the Ford one depending on how folks want the valve controlled.

We worked with Meyers Manxter cars that we put Subi ez30 motors in, and I have a bit of experiance withthe cooling work on them as well as a v8 powered 914. Now that I have qualified for giving advice, here are something to remember.

1) your heater and alum coolant lines will act as heat sinks, cooling the water on its way front to back of the car.
2) you are not going to want to run a thermostat, as by the time the coolant gets back to the engine it will be too cool to open it.
3) the radiator will not need to be very big. You should be able to run a radiator that is about 24 by 24 inches or something close and make up for the size by running a high volume fan. Also ductiing air in and out is very importain.
4) an oil cooler will help drop the temps alot
5) your going to want to run the fan switch on the radiator's exit or somewhere in the return line for best results.
6) I assume your going to run a closed system. If so your going to need to run an expansion tank up high so that you can "burp" the system propperly.

It's late and I can not remember all the other things I learned on these over the last five years building them, but it will come back to me. Just ask if you think of anything you might want to know, I may remember....