New Project: 914 2.0L into '67 T-3

[tdrrally]

any up dates?

[aircooledtechguy]

Just a quick up-date:

Got the motor tuned by Mario Velotta. Runs like a screamin' banshi. That closed out phase-1 (get it converted, tuned and daily drivable)

Phase 2 was to pull it all back out, remove all the tins and make it pretty. Since the motor was out and it was burning a little oil (cylinders had some scoring), I removed them adn bumped it up to 2056cc by adding 96mm flat-tops. I got all the tins done and the exhaust ceramic coated black and back together.



Next is phase-3 - Remove the stock swing axle suspension and update it to IRS. Convert it to Porsche 914 rear disc brakes. Then add a Porsche 923 5-speed (basically a 915) from a '76 Porsche 912E. All of it is now installed and I am working the shift linkage hurdle as well as the clutch cable issue.

[dstar5000]

Looking good Nate!

You don't think the heat rising from that muff is gonna melt your rubber?
Don

[Piledriver]

Looking good Nate!

You don't think the heat rising from that muff is gonna melt your rubber?
Don

My setup with the Bursch is probably much closer, I originally ran a bit of SS flashing attached to the collector as a heat shield, but it proved not to be needed.
There's plenty of fast moving air back there, even sitting still.

My cooling air adapter is also made a bit different, I almost don't need the bellows, and had to cut most of it off.
(Next version I'll try rubber HoDepot garage door bottom seal and no bellows).

Also, I suspect my square is an inch or so shorter than it's supposed to be...

[supaninja]

I run the rear tin, it's a nice heat deflector for the bellows, and keeps some of the debris out of the engine bay.

[aircooledtechguy]

Looking good Nate!

You don't think the heat rising from that muff is gonna melt your rubber?
Don

Heat really has not been an issue at all. I ran this as a daily driver for 2.5 months before tearing it all out and had no problems with the muffler being close. The muffler does not get nearly as hot as the primary tubes and there is about a 3/4" gap once it's hooked to the car.

[dstar5000]

Good to hear Nate, just looked kinda close in the pic!

Don

[supaninja]

The more I look at how you did you bellows adapter, the more I like it. I got a couple of vanagon shrouds that I think I'm going to use to mock up a pattern on and try and cast an adapter. The 411 duct works but it just sticks out too far and isn't a big enough diameter for our bellows.

[clockdoc56]

Hi. I have a some questions about breeding the t4 to the t3 tranny? What do I need yo do?

[supaninja]

There is a couple of ways to do it, I'm using a 200mm conversion flywheel. I'm using a stock type 1/3 clutch and it's a early SA tranny.

[Piledriver]

Hi. I have a some questions about breeding the t4 to the t3 tranny? What do I need yo do?

As Supa said, the easiest solution is a ready-made conversion flywheel... but only if you buy a good quality conversion flywheel.

There's junk on the market that doesn't fit properly, and ~identical looking ones that DO and work fine.
It's all about QA, or the lack of it.

The stock T4 210 and 215mm flywheels/pressure plates also work fine with a minor mod, the pilot bearing must come out of the crank and a new one gets pressed in the flywheel. (it has to come out of the crank regardless...)

Even a Late Bus/Vanagon 228 fits as the ring gear is in the right place, but the pressure plate is huge and requires extensive clearancing on most T1 transmissions and a self supporting starter. (automatic trans version starter)

It has been suggested that cutting the 228s back 2mm as a working option to greatly reduce required clearancing.

The Porsche 914 flywheel ~works dimensionally except the ring gear sits out farther, would need turned back to std dimensions to work and takes more expensive pressure plate. This is a forged steel flywheel from all accounts. It also is already bored for the pilot beating in the flywheel, std location on a Porsche 901 transmission.

FWIW, a std T4 or 228 will work fine on the 914 with the addition of the pilot bearing.

[supaninja]

Pile, it gets a little more complicated when you have a SA/early IRS tranny and don't have a clutch guide tube. It pretty much makes all the OEM FW's a no go unless you do a conversion clutch guide tube (like the one from ac.net, which I think is kinda hookie and prone to leaking), TO arm swap, and newer style TO. If you get all that stuff new you might as well do a conversion FW.

[Piledriver]

I don't know how "hokie" it is, haven't needed to use one myself, looks like a good solution.

What's wrong with them, specifically?

I personally despise the old style TO setup and pressure plate rings, there's a reason VW redesigned that.

I'm a horrible optimist and keep thinking someone will find a bolt-in hydraulic TO setup from a Kia or something that works perfect
(actually the "plug in" style adapter would be the easiest way to do that and set the depth as needed)

[supaninja]

Someone was running it and couldn't stop it from leaking, I think it's hookie because instead of it being bolted to the bellhousing it's only held in by the seal.

[Piledriver]

I thought they were a press fit tube with a slightly smaller seal inside...

The std seals are a press fit... These press into same hole and have a stop.